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Yes, remove all EGR plumbing, including the flanged pipe coming off bottom of exh manifold, the cooler and the EGR valve itself.
Engine hesitation (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Groucho263
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- Thread starter
- #62
Thanks Jim. Do you want me to order those parts online or through here? (wasn't sure if they are all in stock)
- Thread starter
- #63
So, removed the electric fuel pump and using the engine driven pump. What I noticed was the fuel in the site glass with the electronic pump was about 3/4 up the window. With it removed, it was under 1/2.
Took it for a test drive and started out good, then struggled if I added any decent throttle. Seemed like fuel stuttering. Going to have to figure out how to adjust that float I think. Question...if the timing were still off, would this make it stutter with added throttle? It idles pretty nicely...and I have it set right at about 700 rpm at idle. I have a new engine driven pump on the way, and carb/air cleaner spacer gasket.
And...I noticed this with the Amp meter (see video). When I started it the needle was jumping all over the place. Can this be a loose ground someplace?
@Chuckha62...it's not a voltmeter, but how did you do this: Once I SAW it happening, I jumpered around the switch and it stopped dropping voltage.
Took it for a test drive and started out good, then struggled if I added any decent throttle. Seemed like fuel stuttering. Going to have to figure out how to adjust that float I think. Question...if the timing were still off, would this make it stutter with added throttle? It idles pretty nicely...and I have it set right at about 700 rpm at idle. I have a new engine driven pump on the way, and carb/air cleaner spacer gasket.
And...I noticed this with the Amp meter (see video). When I started it the needle was jumping all over the place. Can this be a loose ground someplace?
@Chuckha62...it's not a voltmeter, but how did you do this: Once I SAW it happening, I jumpered around the switch and it stopped dropping voltage.
dwell?
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Please order the desmog parts from the website, it's easier for everyone.
Timing being off will not cause a stutter. It will cause reduced power output.
The ammeter behavior is normal for a points regulated alternator.
Timing being off will not cause a stutter. It will cause reduced power output.
The ammeter behavior is normal for a points regulated alternator.
- Thread starter
- #66
It’s got the Pertronix ignition and coil in it.
- Joined
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The alternator voltage regulator is an archaic electro-mechanical box with contact points in it. It is a binary device: full charge or no charge. The twitching guage is the points opening and closing, overshooting & undershooting the desired charge voltage.
I wasn’t looking at the charging system. I was looking specifically at the voltage to the coil.
Are you working with an original distributor? (Never mind noticed the experts figured that out already)
Is the mechanical advance working properly? Sometimes you can just remove the cap and clean up the weight surfaces and make sure the springs aren’t missing to make it work again. My 60 and 40 centrifugal weights both were completely frozen from sitting. This helps performance off idle. I’m sure someone with better knowledge can tell you with more specific pictures. It’s worth a shot to make sure all of that’s moving freely.
Are you setting timing with the vacuum unplugged and capped off at the carb? (Read that you disconnected and capped the carb so that’s good)
Setting at 7 BTD( the bb mark) are you using a timing gun? Silly question I know, but just curious how you’re finding this setting.
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How does the cylinder #5 plug look after the last month? Still black, flat or glossy?
- Thread starter
- #71
@FJ40Jim...thank you for the explanation...I had a feeling you meant something else, but that helps me understand better. This thread is pure education for me...
@rsnellie Is the mechanical advance working properly? Sometimes you can just remove the cap and clean up the weight surfaces and make sure the springs aren’t missing to make it work again. My 60 and 40 centrifugal weights both were completely frozen from sitting. This helps performance off idle. I’m sure someone with better knowledge can tell you with more specific pictures. It’s worth a shot to make sure all of that’s moving freely. This is a good suggestion because when I disconnected the vacuum advance hose, the timing didn't really change. I thought there would be some sort of change, but didn't notice anything. That was my timing question.
Setting at 7 BTD( the bb mark) are you using a timing gun? Yep, timing gun...but it's not at 7 btdc...if you are looking at the window, the bb is down to the left pretty much out of site to get the engine to start and run. If I try to set it at the left most limit (so I can just see the bb), it doesn't want to start.
I need to do a coolant flush also to fix this overheating issue...I flushed the system about a year ago when I put in the new hoses, radiator, thermostat, fan clutch...but it was rusty water...I suspect something has clogged it. Need to get that flush kit today and let it run for a while.
@rsnellie Is the mechanical advance working properly? Sometimes you can just remove the cap and clean up the weight surfaces and make sure the springs aren’t missing to make it work again. My 60 and 40 centrifugal weights both were completely frozen from sitting. This helps performance off idle. I’m sure someone with better knowledge can tell you with more specific pictures. It’s worth a shot to make sure all of that’s moving freely. This is a good suggestion because when I disconnected the vacuum advance hose, the timing didn't really change. I thought there would be some sort of change, but didn't notice anything. That was my timing question.
Setting at 7 BTD( the bb mark) are you using a timing gun? Yep, timing gun...but it's not at 7 btdc...if you are looking at the window, the bb is down to the left pretty much out of site to get the engine to start and run. If I try to set it at the left most limit (so I can just see the bb), it doesn't want to start.
I need to do a coolant flush also to fix this overheating issue...I flushed the system about a year ago when I put in the new hoses, radiator, thermostat, fan clutch...but it was rusty water...I suspect something has clogged it. Need to get that flush kit today and let it run for a while.
- Thread starter
- #72
I'll pull it today and check.
Approximately, what rpm is the engine giving you trouble? From the video, I'd say 1,000?
- Thread starter
- #74
Anything greater than 1000...idle and mild throttle is good.
- Thread starter
- #75
Here is the #5 spark plug...it's not glossy or wet looking.
- Thread starter
- #76
I'm not sure how to get to the centrifugal weights...I think they are under this plate. How do you get the plate off to see if they spin:
I can’t remember off the top of my head, it’s either a screw under the rotor in the shaft or I think there are two retainers that hold the plate assembly in. Yes the weights should be under that.
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- Thread starter
- #79
I took out the screw from the middle of the shaft. I took out the vacuum retard which was held in place with a retainer clip. There isn’t anything lease that I can see that’s keeping it on
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I'm taking a fork in the road. If that engine has any clean plugs (tan and not black), then I'd check the spark plug wire, and distributor cap, at #5 for continuity, zip up the distributor, and make sure that the valves on #5 are in spec.
