Emissions in No Cal

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I know how you feel, mine expired at the end of october. I'm trying to readjust my carb using the lean drop method, but I screwed up the first time I did it and now I need to do it again. trying to get done with schoolwork because finals are next week, then I could get back into this.

Maybe if you made some sort of makeshift splitter out of hose or metal to fit on that small part of the exhaust that runs up on the drivers side wheel well, you could connect it up there...not too sure about the specifics of the air system though...maybe this could help:
 

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Hah! It worked! I rerouted the air coming from the air pump to go straight into the exhaust and passed emissions with flying colors. Measured CO went from 2.22 to 0.01!!! Amazing. It's a super easy workaround, wish I'd thought of it sooner.
 
:hhmm:I will have to consider this if I fail again...have any pictures of it?
 
Sorry, I already disassembled the "fix." It's super easy though. Just detach the hose from the air pump outlet closest to you when you are standing at the driver's side fender, detach the hose leading down towards the exhaust just below the carb fan, and connect the air pump outlet to the port leading to the exhaust. But this isn't a permanent fix because you can burn out your catalytic converter if you constantly pump that much O2 into it...
 
Good job

Congrats on your smog test,now if i could pass my test.my rig failed w/ excessive nox due to egr valve opening prematurely and i think my vacum modulator is the culprit 2 years ago it passed w/ flying colors.

John
 
Air directly to the rail will cut your emmissions, will also backfire at decel(no big deal). Air injection is KEY as stated by ellington, and as you found. I am wondering why air was not getting to it destination before. The asv is operated by a vsv which is operated by the smog computer. The computer gets input such as speed, temp, airflow and uses these inputs to switch things like your vsv which will switch your avs and allow or prevent air from getting to either the manifold or cat. I am curious, Southbound, What your asv is doing w/ the engine running and if you were to take a ground to the ground terminal of the #1 vsv. W/ the computer and sensors working properly, the vsv should open the asv anytime you are not idling or decellerating, and allow air to enter the manifold. If you by-passed the computers signal to the vsv, and gave it straight ground ( it should already have the +12) it should open the passege from the asv to the manifold. If it DOES open w/ ground provided, I would say there is a problem w/ the wiring to various senders or the senders themselves or the actual processor. Getting the air to the rail will get you into a good emmissions range, but it will also allow air into the stream while under decel or idle, which will give some backfire. So now that you've got that sticker on your plate, lets take the time to find the root of the problem. Take a look at your electrical diagrahm, it will show the various senders and sensors that will give the computer its information. A problem could exsist w/ any of the sensors, but you could eliminate wiring connections and individual sesors by chasing each one from its point of ground back to the computer. Keep us posted here. Just cause you passed doesn't mean all is well.
 
Where is this primitive main computer located?
 
On inside of firewall behind center of dash, if it is where the pooter in my 55 is. It will have a distinct nameplate on it that says amongst other things "Emissions Computer". It will be ?black? plastic about 4"x3"x1"- my bad- about 100mmx75mmx25mm. Do not try figuring out what is what w/ the wiring w/o an electrical diagram (FSM is best, Haynes has good DIAGRAMS). Without it, you may do more harm or become more confused.
 
Ok thanks, I think its time to read up on my emissions manual and figure out if I'm having any issues with the spaghetti mess under the hood.
 
vipergrhd, I talked to a mechanic friend of mine that told me my EGR diaphragm was "soft". This made the EGR activate before it should. The solution, and I don't have it right yet, was to restrict the vacuum between the EGR modulator and the EGR valve. This allows the EGR to stay inactive longer and may help you out.
The way I did it:
take a piece of tube (mine was the casing of a length of wire with copper pulled out) that the OD is roughly the same as the ID of the vacuum tube. Insert said tube into the length of vacuum tube between the modulator and the EGR. This restricts the vacuum and slows the opening of the EGR.
The bucking between 1200 and 1500 RPMs decreased dramatically, but it hasn't gone away completely. I will have to keep messing with it until it works properly.
The other solution I have been thinking about is inserting a VTV in that line. This would cause the EGR to open slower and may also mask the issue.
I am new to the vacuum world, but a little OJT is helping that out...
 
this bucking you are talking about, is it like a loss of power that kicks back in a second later?

I have always wondered what that is. It seems to be more powerful in the lower gears, but it still happens in the upper gears just not as bad.
 
that is it.
I think the best explanation is the power curve is not very smooth, and the loss of power occurs somewhere in the 1200 to 2000 RPM range.
plugging the vacuum tube between EGR modulator and EGR valve will eliminate the problem. If it doesn't, you have a different problem... This trick is sometimes accomplished using golf tees.
 
So you're saying to plug the egr valve in the off position? This will in effect eliminate it, right?
 
that is my recommended TEST to see if the EGR is causing the issue. When I plugged mine, the power curve is very steady...
 
I had just always thought my cruiser had the hiccups...:p
 
If your still in need of a good smog technician to help permanently resolve your emission problems, check out Smog Shop in San Francisco @ 220 Fell St ,in Hayes valley. I got fed up with my 62 not passing smog after trouble shooting and re-testing on my own. I paid the 180 diagnostic fee and they found a bad sensor. I sourced the part and they had no problem with that and the truck passed after having problems with high CO. After I got the truck home, it turned out they had to fiddle with the air flow meter to get it to stoich. They didn't charge me to play with while on the rolling road and was actually reasonably priced for a smog test in the city.
 
Got my smog appointment on thursday...so far I've:
1. replaced my air rail, as my old one had holes in it.
2. replaced my vacuum hoses, as my old ones were...old.
3. realized I was missing an idle spring and got one of those.
4. adjusted the carb. with the lean drop method.

I'm hoping I pass, however I am also worried about the HAC valve I accidentally broke in the process. Could this have an affect on smog?

wish me luck:D

SYCruiser said:
that is my recommended TEST to see if the EGR is causing the issue. When I plugged mine, the power curve is very steady...
Click to expand...

So, when you say test; that means if it works leave it plugged and if it doesn't work unplug it?
 
it depends how you broke it. The hac allows air into certain carburetor circuits and advances the timing when at high altitude (greater than 4000 ft). I don't think Santa Cruz is at high altitude. If you broke one of the the three vacuum ports on the top of the HAC you will need to plug the vacuum line so your carb mixture is not leaned out. To pass a visual inspection, you need to make the HAC look like it is not broken. That might mean leaving the vacuum tube so it looks like it is attached to the HAC and plugging the line internally with a BB or other plug inside the vacuum tube.

I split one of my HAC vacuum lines and then my truck ran like crap under power, due to a lean condition being caused. So if the break causes a leak, you probably won't pass smog unless you do something about it.

Good Luck.
 
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