Emblem Movement?

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Joined
Oct 26, 2007
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40
Messages
247
Location
Anacortes, WA
It appears the previous owner was prone to taking left turns way too fast!:p

That or he installed the emblem too far right.

How is the emblem installed on the rear hatch? Are there holes that secure it, or is it glued, or held on by the attraction of the flux capacitor?

What is the best way to remove without damage to emblem or hatch?

Thanks!
Emblem.webp
 
I removed my V8 emblem with floss and gooBgone. I was going to remove or more the "Toyota" and center "Land Cruiser", but it seemed like too much of a PIA after removing the V8.
 
It will be difficult to relocate the OEM emblem after moving it, at least from my experience. It's possible the damage was minimal (typical ding from a garage door on the liftgate), which is why the would have left one part of the emblem in the stock location.
 
It's possible the damage was minimal (typical ding from a garage door on the liftgate), which is why the would have left one part of the emblem in the stock location.

That's what I'm thinking.
 
I just blacked my emblems out this past weekend and found 20lb test fishing line to break less while removing the emblems. After priming and painting I reinstalled with 3m emblem glue. Not too difficult to line up just centered off the logo emblem and used some masking tape to keep it all in line.
 
I used an expired credit card before I cut it up.

I did too. The detailer was PO'd when it didn't go through... but I was long gone by then. :-P

People de-badge stuff all the time. I do. I don't like providing free advertising for a company whose product I have already bought. Doesn't necessarily mean it's been hit.

They'll be much more definite clues if it has. Get the lamest, thinnest, weakest fridge magnet you can find. The kind realtors and insurance agents get made up at Office Depot and hand out. Run it around the lift/tailgate. If there's even the slightest bit of body filler there, you'll find it.

Best way to remove any emblems is the previously-mentioned "flossing method". Heating the emblems up with a heat gun/blow dryer eases things quite a bit. Rubbing alcohol and cotton pads will deal with the residue if you're persistent. They'll be a bit of crust aroiund them. Take your time and raise a few blisters rubbing gummy snots up with your thumbs alternating with rubbing alcohol. Follow up with a light rubbing compound or abrasive wax if they've been on there for awhile.

Careful with stuff like Goof Off, Goo Gone etc.
 
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My "black pearl" badge is delaminating, PO had it replaced once under warranty and it's going again. And the hatch is rusting underneath same as my 80 did, so I may be pulling badges and pulling the rear hatch for a repaint. Your cruiser likely had an issue like that.
 
My "black pearl" badge is delaminating, PO had it replaced once under warranty and it's going again.

Huh, that's good to know. I was going to pick up a set of black pearl emblems for my 100. Not going to if there's a problem with them.
 
Depending on what they're made of, I may try another finish. It's low on my list 'till after my daughter's wedding next week, wife hasn't complained about the emblems in a while.
 
I'd stick with a blow dryer, heat guns can get hot enough to blister paint.

Meguiars makes a three part buffing system called Deep Crystal, it is supposed to be for dark colors but I found it worked pretty well for removing Nevada Pinstriping. I suspect it would also work to even out the shadow the emblem will leave behind.
 

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