Embarassingly simple maintenance questions (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Nov 30, 2004
Threads
10
Messages
107
Location
Durham, NC
After my recent headache with my mechanic putting 90W in my birfs, I've decided to try my hand at DIY'ing some basic maintenance. However, I've run into a couple problems I'm hoping the helpful folks in this forum can help me out with:

1) What is the external size of the OEM drain/fill plugs for the transfer case? I know it is > 22 mm because that is the largest size socket my local parts store stocks and it was too small by a few millimeters. Also, any suggestions where I can get a socket that will fit the drain / fill plugs?


2) I spent a good part of this evening trying to pump (Valvoline multi-purpose moly fortified) grease into the zerks on the driveshaft u-joints unsuccessfully. It seems the grease just squirts out between the head of the grease gun and the top of the zerk without going in. I'm using a $12.98 cheapo grease gun - could it be that it is just a POS, or is there a trick to getting the grease where it needs to go.

Thanks.

P.S. Thanks for all the help with the birfs issue. I've posted a pic of my new TLC below:

river5td.jpg
 
Rig looks real good--I like that color a lot.

24mm (IIRC) on the xfer; it should be the same for the differential drain and fill to. Sears Hardware should have it--I get most of my tools from there.

Remember to unscrew your fill plug first before unscrewing the drain plug.

Best.
-onur
Akron, OH
 
Make sure you clean the zerk off as much as possible. Also make sure the the grease gun fitting is sitting tight and straight on the zerk. If that still doesn't work, you can carefully try to push the ball in on the zerk. If THAT doesn't work, go buy a new zerk.

Cheers, Hugh
 
I'd bet you're not getting the head of the grease gun on the zirk properly. Do you have the grease gun with a hose or the hard pipe? If you have the pipe, you can buy just the hose and switch them out. With the hose you can push the head on the zirk and wiggle it a little, that usually does the trick. The pistol grip grease guns are nice 'cause you can pump with one hand and hold the hose on the zirk with the other...

A little clarification on beno's advice: You want to always take the fill plug out first because if you take the drain plug out, and when all the gear oil drains out you can't get the fill plug out you're in trouble :doh:

Hope this helps :cheers:

Nick
 
fixing it yourself and keeping a good log of the work you do is really rewarding. at least do your own servicing and whatever large jobs you think you can do. buy the toyota service manual. when your sitting on the couch you can read thru projects that you might be doing soon. helps plan the work to make it more enjoyable. also might give you more info when you think you have a problem.
 
Yes, 24mm on the socket, yes Sears has them, perhaps even your autoparts store, I picked up a couple used in good condition at the local pawn shop for a buck or two.

It is hard to get a straight line on the zirks to get get the gun to pop on. Growing up on a farm I have greased thousands of zirks and I seem to think those on my LC u-joints have a pretty snug fit.
 
Make sure you get a 6 point socket.

-B-
 
Be careful when you grease the driveshafts. Here is a good
thread on that subject.

Tom
 
Originally posted by Beowulf
Make sure you get a 6 point socket.


If you cannot get a 24MM socket, you can use a 15/16 inch socket and make sure it is a six point to prevent rounding off the fill/drain plug and torque them plugs to about 27 ft lbs.

As far as the grease gun go, follow what others have already told you. If you want to use a high temp grease, use Amsoil multipurpose synthetic grease that comes in a tube with a red lettering. Napa store carry some Amsoil products. Good Luck
 
Thanks for all the replies. I'll stop by Sears and pick up a 6-sided 24 mm socket. Based on how torqued down and corroded that fill plug is, it will be interesting to see what shape the lubricant is in in the transfer case.

Cleaning the zerks is a good idea. Maybe wet a rag with some WD-40 and wipe down the exterior first. I also have a smaller grease gun which is easier to manage in close quarters. I may try to find a cartridge for it and see if I have better luck.
 
To be sure you dont round off the fill and drain plugs, when you look at the 24 mm socket, the first 2 or 3 mm will be shamfered, and will round the plugs of very easily, better off grinding or turning back the end of the socket to give you full contact on the plug, why Toyota have only given the plugs very short heads, is beyond me.
 
Sears had only has 12 pt 24 mm sockets in the retail store. I picked up both the 24 mm 12 pt and a 15/16" 6 pt. Other options were 24 mm open and 12 pt box end.

The Sears website has the 6 pt but it's hard to find as it's listed under impact sockets. They can have that for me in 7 days.

In the absence of a better option, I'll try using the 6 pt 15/16" to break it loose and use the 24 mm 12 pt for future work.
 
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As you can see in the pic you added, the socket has a lead in edge, not good for narrow headed sump plugs, make sure you grind it flat, you will be suprised how easy the plug will round off
 
Can you recommend where to buy a flat or de-shamfered 24 mm socket. At a resonable price. I'm not looking for a $25 Snap-on socket.
 
Impact sockets flat and hexaganal and easy to find in the tool kit as they are usualy black well they are here anyway, Try hardware store or motor factors.
 
No.... never seen any sockets that are flat at the end, my plugs would not come out using an ordinary socket, just kept slipping off, once I ground down the first 3 mm the plug came out with the first crack, I done mine on a grinder.
 
Kaderabek said:
In which Carolina do you reside?

TJK


Todd, myself and wolfpackTLC have already offered our help. I think he's near raleigh.
 

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