elocker control module

[WarDamnEagle]

If you have the factory pigtail for the factory switch, the factory pigtail for the factory ECU, and the factory harness that plugs into the elocker then that is all you need.

You need to pull switched power into the ECU. I think the factory uses 20 amps but I think the actual draw is less than 10. You also need to sort the instrument cluster out. Again, if it has the place for the factory diff lock light then I would use that, otherwise order a 12 Volt LED from 12VoltGuy and install it above the switch like I did (although I used 2 LEDs since it was front and rear elockers using an FZJ80 switch).

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Any progress Andrew? Apologies for asking but this is a mod that's near and dear to my heart...

 

[pillguy]

I finally got all my parts and am working on it a bit tonight. Had a lot of other things going on, work travel, brakes, skid plate paint and install, etc. you know, you start one thing and it leads to three others on your truck. I will let you know how it goes. I may have a question of two as I proceed with the wiring.

A

Any progress Andrew? Apologies for asking but this is a mod that's near and dear to my heart...

 

[Blue77FJ40]

KLF, what are the two sets of red sheathed connectors/wires coming into the box between the control wires for F and R? Are they the locked indicators that come from the locked position indicator switch?

Thanks, Dan

 

[WarDamnEagle]

KLF, what are the two sets of red sheathed connectors/wires coming into the box between the control wires for F and R? Are they the locked indicators that come from the locked position indicator switch?

Thanks, Dan

If you go to post 6 of this thread you can see a photo of his dash with switches:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/79-95-toyota-truck-tech/204094-elocker-wiring-switches.html

He is using both locked and unlocked indicators next to his switches.

 

[Blue77FJ40]

Thanks WDE, that's what I thought, they are the wires from the indicators. But since his unlocked lights are off, I'm guessing he has an 'armed' switch somewhere not showing, or his unlocked lights would always be lit. I used fox fab's schematic in post#4 with the dpdt relays and one led for locked. When I did the first test, the damn thing wouldn't lock. Tried and tried again, no lockee. Then got the brilliant idea to flip the switch the other way from what I had wired. Bingo. It locked. D'oh. Had to rewire to match my locked markings!

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I'm not that familiar with how KLF wired his relays but if you look at the photo of his wiring, you will see a switch on the right side of the box toward the front. I would imagine that is indeed an arming switch.

From your post I'm sure you'll appreciate what I'm about to say. I used an FZJ80 switch and elocker ECU with 2 TRD elockers in my 85 4Runner. I also wired in two "locked" indicating LEDs which I installed above the switch.

I almost cried when everything worked on the first try!

 

[Blue77FJ40]

I gloss over it, but wrapping my brain around the electronics of the relay box, the wiring, and the implementation took me a coupla months before I had everything straight in my head. After that (and Foxfab's help on what went where on the dpdt relays), it was straight construction and installation. The box and the wiring was the hardest part for me. My box is a piece of aluminum folded into a box with rivnuts for attaching in the stock speaker mount holes. The switch is a mil spec momentary and a small led above it. I used molex connectors and housings for easy R&R. I bought a stock FJ80 harness and stripped it down to the needed 5 wires and rewrapped, as there were several unneeded subharnesses.