Electrical Wiring starter and igniter 1976 FJ40

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FJforte

FJforte

Joined
May 29, 2016
Threads
1
Messages
22
Location
Utah, USA
Hello All,

Bought my Grandpa's 1976 1/2 FJ40 last year after he passed away. Finally saved enough money to do a little tune up. I'm looking for a few pictures to make sure the wiring to the starter and igniter are correct. There are a few wires in near each competent mentioned just left loose that look like they need a home. Can anyone help me out or point me in the right direction?

Thanks,

FJforte
 
I hadn't looked there yet. Thanks for the reference! Unfortunately there seems to be some "custom" wiring.

If anyone has a few pictures of the wiring on the right, passenger side of the engine that would be great.
 
Does the truck run ok? If it does, why fix something that isn't broke?--Toyota left a lot of wires dead-ended(or non-connected) depending on the yr and the market. If you have a FSM, you should be able to trace the wiring to make sure the wires run to where they are supposed to. I think Coolerman has a pretty extensive listing of wiring diagrams if you don't have the FSM. SOR has some also.
A caveat here--don't depend on the wire color codes in the truck til you can confirm any PO wiring that was done followed the factory code--you may find someone added a green wire for a ground--instead of the normal whitew/black stripe-----
Pictures, please---
 
Here are some photos. There are three wires loose (unconnected) near the igniter. There is a black and yellow wire with a barrel connector, a black wire with a barrel connector and a round connector with two black wires running to it (the round connection has two black wires running to it. One runs to the igniter and the other is the loose black wire mentioned above).

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Here are the wires near the starter that don't seem to have a home. I also included a picture of the starter. It does start although it seems to get jammed a lot and I need to turn the ignition off and back on to get it to engage the starter. It does not run well. Very rough and it won't idle unless I feather the throttle.

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I believe that the two "barrel" connectors are the bullet connectors for the RFI suppression condensors. The ring terminal is the negative coil connection from the ignitor, which indicates that the ignitor has been disconnected. The non OEM crimp wires at the coil are consistent with it being rewired by someone to conver it to points only operation.

The red wire near the starter is the original points wire to trigger the ignitor, further indicating that the ignitor has been disconnected. The other wire near the starter appears to be the oil pressure sender wire.
 
Pin_Head said:
I believe that the two "barrel" connectors are the bullet connectors for the RFI suppression condensors. The ring terminal is the negative coil connection from the ignitor, which indicates that the ignitor has been disconnected. The non OEM crimp wires at the coil are consistent with it being rewired by someone to conver it to points only operation.

The red wire near the starter is the original points wire to trigger the ignitor, further indicating that the ignitor has been disconnected. The other wire near the starter appears to be the oil pressure sender wire.
Click to expand...
Thanks! Any down side to disconnecting the igniter?
 
Yep, the igniter is definitely disabled. I replaced the cap, rotor, plug wires and spark plugs and it's running much better. Still a little trouble idling. I'd love to get the igniter hooked back up so I don't have to change those every 5000. Will it dam
 
....damage the high speed points in the distributor too or just the cap points?

Thanks! You guys have been a huge help!
 
10-4. Would you recommend upgrading to an electronic ignition? Sorry for all the questions I'm a newbie and my mechanic skills are a little limited.
 
It depends on what you want to do with it. If you wheel it off road, keep the points. They are reliable and relatively easy fix if something bad happens in out in BFE. Test the original ignitor first to see if it works. Disconect the wires at the - terminal of the coil and reconnect the ring terminal from the ignitor. Turn the key on and then repeatedly ground the red wire and see if you get a spark every time you break the ground. If you drive it daily or only wheel in a group, then get a Pertronix ignition module for your distributor.
 
Thanks Pin_Head super pumped to start getting this baby back on the road. So many good memories with my Grandpa.
 
Pin_Head said:
Huh?

The points burn out more rapidly due to arcing without the ignitor. The ignitor uses transistors to do the high current switching for the coil. The points carry a low current signal and don't arc.
Click to expand...

Just to clarify I have not replaced the points. I was a little intimidated. I think I'll read up on it first.
 
I'm not entirely sure, but it looks like you have an earlier distributor than the one that came on the '76 originally. This is not necessarily a problem but you will need to know which distributor you have when you get points or Pertronix modules.
 
My Grandpa was very resourceful. I'm hoping that it's not a hodge podge of parts. Thanks again!

Happy Memorial Day!
 
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