Electrical gremlins (1 Viewer)

[duckling]

Just the last few days, I have been getting a popping sound from under the hood during the first glow period. Checked it with the hood open last night and had a red glow where the glowplug busbar is attached to the metal resistor. Also, at about the point of contact, the metal resistor is burning away on one side. Here's the question:
Is this the insulators that are failing (I noticed that the top one is burning away where it touches the the metal resistor when I checked the glow plugs a few weeks ago)?
(All the plugs are fine. The voltage and times for the first and second cycles are good too)

Thanks for any help

84 BJ60 191 km, 6v denso plugs under the stock superglow system.

 

[brownbear]

sounds like a short to ground right there(glowing red spot)

the popping sound could be arcing.

put a meter(multi) on the spot(cold though) and check for continuity to ground. Unless you disconnect the part that goes to the plugs you will read resistence thru them. Which is ok. but you will get a ohm reading. Disconnected you should have an open circuit. infinity ohms.

have a really good look around that area to make sure nothing is grounding out.

I too have a 84 BJ60. I disconnected the superglow and run a manual switch.

But to do that with your 6v plugs you may still need a resistor. I have the 10.5 NGK plugs.

I will look at my engine and wiring diagram and get back to you.

 

[duckling]

Electrical gremlins II

Thanks Brown Bear, I looked real close. I don't see anything close to touching that would cause a ground, unless it is in the wiring. Anyway, I fabbed a piece to attach to the bad end of the steel "resistor". It's so pitted and uneven now that that may be a contributing factor. Used 20 gauge sheet metal with a resistance of 0.6 ohms (same as the glow plugs and busbar). Hopefully this will work. Just going to keep it in the truck for now with a few rivets since i'm not really sure it will work. Also waiting for some new insulators for that spot. (They're pretty fried too).

I do have a set of NGK 10 volt plugs that I mistakenly bought for my rig and eventually switched back out when January told me they weren't going to cut it. If my fix doesn't do it...how did you set up your push button system? Did you run directly off the battery? Use an in-line fuse? Is there a danger of overheating/melting the plugs inside the head? Is that enough questions?

Thanks for any help. I walk to work. So it's not a daily driver. It's just my only driver.

84'BJ60 191km restored and stock

 

[Island Moose]

Duckling, do you have a shop manual that you can use to compare and check everything? Probably one you can download here somewhere (anyone?).

Also, (chat) where a bout`s in Cape Breton?

 

[Deny]

This thread looks like some kind of childrens story book,
with the big brown bear, good old moose, and the little duckling!
Cheers
Deny

 

[Greg_B]

Here is the artical for the Wilson Switch.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=38416

Look at Post #22.

Maybe Stone can put that thread in the FAQ somewhere.

gb

 

[crushers]

This thread looks like some kind of childrens story book,
with the big brown bear, good old moose, and the little duckling!
Cheers
Deny

that made me laugh...

 

[Stone]

Maybe Stone can put that thread in the FAQ somewhere.

gb

Done.

 

[brownbear]

duckling, ya as Greg_B posted. Thats what I did. Put your 10.5 plugs back in, then run from the high voltage relay straight to the bar. It'll start excellant. Then after you start you can press the button and smooth it out for a couple sec. I can do an absolutely NO smoke start. Good if parked next to some mother earth type people.