Ok boys need some help here I read most the issues with the windows and can find one that matches mine I have just brought a 1993 80 series and the drivers side electric window has stopped working all other windows work fine it was work but slow then it go down fine then stop going up so would give the door a hit and it would start working again so I got a new regular and motor for it thinking it was buggerd but nothing has changed tested it before putting it together and window goes down but not up and suggestions please
Electric windows issue (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Dargieboy
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inkpot
SILVER Star
Have you tried cleaning the contacts in the control switch? Search should net you detailed instructions on how to do it.
Formulaonehd
NWZ - The storm is here
I have a 93 had exact same issue heres what i did:
1) pull the trim off (very easy if you havent done before)
2) try the switch and see if its obvious whats going on
3) likely your rubber glides have worn our and the window is catching on something. When you smack it you might be loosening it
4) if glides are fine (unless they have been replaced in the last 10 years i doubt they are good) then as Inkpot said above your switch contacts might be bad. pull the unit out and inspect that and your harness connector.
All of this is very easy to do you shouldnt need a walkthrough once you start it all becomes very obvious
PM on the rubber channels while you have the door trim off is a good idea and spare yourself the stuck window on a rainy day. If you do this pull the glass out
1) pull the trim off (very easy if you havent done before)
2) try the switch and see if its obvious whats going on
3) likely your rubber glides have worn our and the window is catching on something. When you smack it you might be loosening it
4) if glides are fine (unless they have been replaced in the last 10 years i doubt they are good) then as Inkpot said above your switch contacts might be bad. pull the unit out and inspect that and your harness connector.
All of this is very easy to do you shouldnt need a walkthrough once you start it all becomes very obvious
PM on the rubber channels while you have the door trim off is a good idea and spare yourself the stuck window on a rainy day. If you do this pull the glass out
- Thread starter
- #5
Yeah thanks mate iv got a new window regulator but I haven't installed it yet it's sitting on the ground just plugged in to do if the switch works and yeah the regular went one way as in it was going down but wouldnt go the other way as in going up I cleaned all the contacts in the switch I then manualy pushed the contacts together with out the switch to see maybe the switch was worn and not pushing it across all the way but nothing it's like I'm not getting power to the contacts on the window up side but I am every where els
Formulaonehd
NWZ - The storm is here
I
When that window gets stuck the motor does nothing you would think its dead but it isnt. When i stuck my head in door frame i could see the damaged window rubber and the window kept getting caught on it, i had to pull the glass up manually to fix it. New rubber, some silicone spray and all good
s the switch clicking or no contact noise at all?
When that window gets stuck the motor does nothing you would think its dead but it isnt. When i stuck my head in door frame i could see the damaged window rubber and the window kept getting caught on it, i had to pull the glass up manually to fix it. New rubber, some silicone spray and all good
- Thread starter
- #7
Yeah but I pulled the motor out of the car and pluged the new one in with out installing it so even if the window was jammed it was not affecting it and I could hear the contacts click when I pushed the window down button but no click when I pushed window up button and it's a new motors and mounts for the window so the motor should work it's laying on the ground just plugged in to nothing stopping it from moving so it must be a power issue I might plug it in the the rear switch and check it works with that switch
Sounds as if you have identified the problem. You just need to find the exact component(s) causing the issue.
With ANY window motor (new or old) you will want to test them independent of the switch. Apply a good 12 v. source directly to the motor (or wire harness). This will confirm the motor works (or doesn't work) properly. Run it in BOTH directions. Simply reverse the leads to change the direction of the motor.
If you have a new motor and window regulator, you can check them before ever installing them. If the window will go down (at normal speed) but not come back up, then there are really only two reasons why.
1. Insufficient (or no) voltage the motor. (could be your master switch, wiring or poor connections).
2. Physical obstruction. (worn window seals, tracks or possibly a bad regulator).
With ANY window motor (new or old) you will want to test them independent of the switch. Apply a good 12 v. source directly to the motor (or wire harness). This will confirm the motor works (or doesn't work) properly. Run it in BOTH directions. Simply reverse the leads to change the direction of the motor.
If you have a new motor and window regulator, you can check them before ever installing them. If the window will go down (at normal speed) but not come back up, then there are really only two reasons why.
1. Insufficient (or no) voltage the motor. (could be your master switch, wiring or poor connections).
2. Physical obstruction. (worn window seals, tracks or possibly a bad regulator).
I'm having similar issues and want to make sure I've diagnosed the problem correctly. My drivers window has always been painfully slow, but worked. This past January, I removed the door panel, window motor and regulator. I purchased the Dorman window motor from Amazon, but did not want to splice connections so it was returned. After cleaning/lubricating all moving parts, the windows were much improved.
Last week, the drivers window became inop. It worked fine that morning and quit at lunchtime. By the time I got home, it was working again. Two days later, it was 100% inop. I ordered a Switch Doctor replacement switch after examining the original. After installation, the drivers window was still inop but all other windows and locks worked correctly. My multimeter showed good 12V power at the wiring harness that connects to the motor when the window switch is pressed down or up.
Before I drop $250 on an OEM window motor, anything else I should check?
Last week, the drivers window became inop. It worked fine that morning and quit at lunchtime. By the time I got home, it was working again. Two days later, it was 100% inop. I ordered a Switch Doctor replacement switch after examining the original. After installation, the drivers window was still inop but all other windows and locks worked correctly. My multimeter showed good 12V power at the wiring harness that connects to the motor when the window switch is pressed down or up.
Before I drop $250 on an OEM window motor, anything else I should check?
Take apart the window motor, clean and maybe install new brushes and re-lube. There are a few here that have rebuilt the window motor with very good success.
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
My windows don't work very well in the winter, the rubbers harden when cold, and simply will not flex out of the way of the glass.
Its ironic that my windows work perfect in the summer as the heat softens the rubbers, and of course the AC is on!
Regards
Dave
Its ironic that my windows work perfect in the summer as the heat softens the rubbers, and of course the AC is on!
Regards
Dave
OK, so here is my similar issue. I have done everything above. My passenger window stopped working. Definitely an electrical issue. Window would go down and rarely went back up. I figured out a quick solution by hitting down then immediately pulling up to get a good electrical contact I think (Window had to have a little room to go down first. Could not be all the way down). I thought for sure it was the relay. Switched relay, no fix. Replaced both driver and passenger switch panels from my other truck that was working fine and no change. Hooked up 12V directly to the motor and window works flawless both directions. I am going out of my mind and now my drivers window is starting to do the same thing.
