Electric Motor running under hood?

[04UZJ100]

Secondary Air Injection Bypass Kits | Hewitt Technologies

Hewitt Tech is the Home of the Original Secondary Air Injection System (SAIS) Bypass Kits for Toyota & Lexus vehicles. These kits offer a cost effective DIY solution for the failure prone SAIS. Common codes include; P0412 P0415 P0418 P0419 P1441 P1442 P1444 P1445 P2440 P2441 P2442 P2443 P2445 P2447

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Can save yourself some money and LOTS of time. Bypass the whole thing. Running it for 2 years now. Not a single issue.

These AIP systems are constantly a challenge on all 5.7 vehicles. So much so that Toyota extended the warranty on them to 10yrs/120k miles. Fun fact is that Toyota will NOT warranty the part on the Land Cruiser, only the Tundra and Sequoia, even though they share the same part numbers. Toyota wanted me to spend 1200 to remove the manifold to verify that the part is bad and then maybe I could claim a warranty fix but no guarantee. Bypassed the whole thing for a couple hundred bucks...... Over the whole system. It's crap.

Yep. Screw the EPA for mandating manufacturers put this junk on cars.

 

[mystican]

Egr systems on diesel trucks have a bypass, variable cylinder mgmt on honda's have a bypass, extra technology means extra dollars. Hewitt-tech makes a bypass. All the OEMs r bound by regulations, except VW...but they got caught....but in the end...customer has to pay the big bucks.

 

[bloc]

Here’s some close ups. Maybe I’ll pop the housing open today. Like I said, it’s a substantial part, I think the motor it’s self is going to be a quality part.

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What about the other housing? I see the one on the motor side of the impeller, but what about the non motor side? The inside of the top, I think?

 

[bloc]

Yep. Screw the EPA for mandating manufacturers put this junk on cars.

Go spend some time in Central America and ask yourself whether you want our cities to be like that.

Emissions systems are vastly more reliable and less complicated than they were a few decades ago. Meanwhile smog is barely a thing at all in American cities anymore. Because of the EPA & CARB.

Toyota didn’t design these systems well enough, at the end of the day. And even then the vast majority of us don’t have problems with them.

I don’t see the point in getting triggered by this.

 

[Cruisin911]

Go spend some time in Central America and ask yourself whether you want our cities to be like that.

Emissions systems are vastly more reliable and less complicated than they were a few decades ago. Meanwhile smog is barely a thing at all in American cities anymore. Because of the EPA & CARB.

Toyota didn’t design these systems well enough, at the end of the day. And even then the vast majority of us don’t have problems with them.

I don’t see the point in getting triggered by this.

While I completely agree with you, this is a bit of a red herring. Then AIP system only runs in certain temp conditions, and only helps preheat the catalytic converters. Your steady state tailpipe emissions don’t change at all.

I think if people were removing their cats or something of the sort, then we can have the sky is falling conversation. AIP only comes on with cold starts and ambient greater than 45*F.

It makes less sense to leave an unreliable system in place that could leave you stranded in the backcountry with an engine in limp mode.

 

[CharlieS]

Agree. Though it shouldn't be running when the truck is off. They are used to help get the cats hot during a cold start.. usually only run for less than a minute in those conditions. I guess a relay or something could be stuck keeping them on.

You can try disconnecting the harness to them to see if the noise stops.. it is easy to get to. See photo.

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On my ‘13, there were two harnesses and two separate wire connectors. The one shown above, and a second at the front of the engine under the air intake tub in the area near the thermostat. I posted pictures in a prior thread. You can apply 12v power and ground at these plugs to verify operation of the pumps. They sound like a shop vac when running.

 

[CharlieS]

Ok, final diagnosis and parts required to fix...

There are two “control modules” (AKA fancy relays I’m told) under the hood that control this emissions equipment and two air pumps (I think). These pumps move air during cold starts into the exhaust stream to help cats heat up quicker and start working ASAP. Tech stated that at least one relay was bad, he ordered both in and swapped until pump stopped running continuously. That was ~ $750 to fix (only one relay was bad).

Relay swapped and it was still throwing codes. Checked pumps and found one that sounded crunchy when running, ordered that pump and replaced it. Codes clear and truck runs perfect.
if you look at the pump pic the plastic turbine part is melted in the center where the shaft must’ve slipped and melted the center. This is not a serviceable part and it was replaced. The control module is also sealed and not serviceable. I am happy with my dealership experience. They took two days but that was only due to waiting on parts. I live in Chicagoland and the control modules were in the regional warehouse but the pump needed to be “shipped overnight” so if you are gonna tackle this yourself I’d order the pump and both control modules to have on hand then return what’s not needed. Access to pump is good if you have an ARB front bumper and I have no idea where the control modules are located but the bad one that came from my truck is pretty clean and shows no indication of water intrusion.

Grand total ~$1,700 (including new wiper blades and power steering system check up). I left the receipt at work so I don’t have the full breakdown on costs but let me know if anyone cares that much. I am sure I could’ve gotten it done locally for cheaper or spent a few days tracking the problem and waiting on parts but I needed it fixed ASAP for a spring break road trip with the family this weekend. All is well but I have only put ten miles on it and two cold starts... so fingers crossed.
hope this helps someone down the road!
-Kevin in IL

Please see pics for additional details

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Odds are the drivers (you called them control modules or fancy relays) were fine and that hosed impeller was the issue all along.

This seems like a good example of dealer techs throwing parts at issues without doing the proper diagnostics.

It is easy to test the pumps separately by applying power and ground directly (I did it with a simple jumper harness I made hooked to the battery).

You can also test the other side of the plug for voltage with a multimeter to ensure that the drivers are working before replacing them.

It sounds like you are happy with the resolution, but I suspect it cost you a lot more than it should have to resolve.

In case you are looking for them, the control modules are under the hood on the us drivers side, on a bracket between the main fuse box and the master cylinder.

The two pumps are under the skirt in the us passenger side fender well, forward of the wheel.

Oh, and without getting into the environmental issues being discussed (which I agree are important considerations), the Hewitt Tech bypass module is terrific and a much more cost effective resolution to these issues if you have a big failure and don’t want to deal with potentially repeated replacement of pumps and drivers.

 

[2001LC]

Interesting thread. Did your A.I pump have a filter?

I'm doing some researching on the 100 series, with respect to A.I system and all DTC set off involving environmental components.

I find very strange the pump would run IG off. As it is designed to run on cold start up only. Likely an example of new age engineers integrating systems. As we do have various system powered IG off, like fuel system vapor pump running hours after shut-down. Perhaps that is where hot lead with IG comes into play.

@GoISU Interesting you fan blade melted at shaft. My guess, is this in part due to, motor of fan run contentiously. They're designed to run high speed for short spurts (~90 sec). But even so, I suspect something jamb the blade from turning as motor ran. Than as the motor ran the shaft spun with the plastic fan stopped. Shaft spinning would create heat and that could melt plastic.

But if my theory of something jamming fan blade correct, what was it and how did it get in.

One thing I'm working on now in the 100 series, is a filter in these A.I pumps. I'm looking for evidence from others on missing filter. Is it missing? when and how. The how & why. Was it small rodents or just age, or environmental related disintegration. Why in some and not others.????


Did yours have a filter?
Which I do not see in your pictures and to be honesty I've not look at the 200 series A.I pump.

Here's the 100 series A.I pump and filter.

The A.I systems have their issues. But for me a block off system is not a viable option, for any driven on public roads in the USA. Some live in counties without emission required inspection and block these off and remove CATs. But these components are all part in reducing pollution. They are requirement of USA vehicle and do reduce pollution. So I'm working on find and prevent failures.

 

[bloc]

While I completely agree with you, this is a bit of a red herring. Then AIP system only runs in certain temp conditions, and only helps preheat the catalytic converters. Your steady state tailpipe emissions don’t change at all.

I think if people were removing their cats or something of the sort, then we can have the sky is falling conversation. AIP only comes on with cold starts and ambient greater than 45*F.

It makes less sense to leave an unreliable system in place that could leave you stranded in the backcountry with an engine in limp mode.

I take issue with the EPA mandating unreliable emissions equipment on the fire apparatus I drive, potentially causing us to not be able to respond to emergencies, or even worse suffer a shutdown while doing something important at a fire.

The other side of the argument is that we used to back older apparatus into the bay dosing the firefighters and station with benzene and loads of carcinogens, many times a day.

Ranting about either of these issues online does nothing to help the situation though.

I’m not aware of the regulations that might cause this AIC error to lock out 4Lo, and if they don’t exist I consider it a huge design oversight on Toyota’s part. But with how clean modern catalysts and general equipment has made average tailpipe emissions, cold start becomes a large contributor, in relative terms. It stands to reason they’d move down the line and try to address it. At the end of the day toyota designed it pretty well, but not to our high standards.

You bring up a good point that a delete might be a way to preempt some trouble further down the line..

 

[Cruisin911]

I’m not aware of the regulations that might cause this AIC error to lock out 4Lo, and if they don’t exist I consider it a huge design oversight on Toyota’s part. But with how clean modern catalysts and general equipment has made average tailpipe emissions, cold start becomes a large contributor, in relative terms. It stands to reason they’d move down the line and try to address it. At the end of the day toyota designed it pretty well, but not to our high standards.

You bring up a good point that a delete might be a way to preempt some trouble further down the line..

Agreed on all counts. When these AIP codes are thrown, they lock out 4LO. 100% certain. It shows check engine and flashing 4LO indicators as well as a few others. I don’t remember. The Hewitt bypass has saved me thousands in money and time for very little sacrifice.