Builds "El Troque" Comes to 'Merica: LJ78 Build Thread (1 Viewer)

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Joined
May 14, 2016
Threads
33
Messages
178
Location
Florida
First off, I'm not a mechanic. I can do some basic things but I've grown fat and lazy. But I have this Cruiser and I want to keep making it better. So here is the story.

A little more than a year ago I decided that it was time to try and find and old Cruiser. I've always loved 40's, I grew up in South America where my American parents were missionaries, and I knew from the time I was a little kid that Toyota Land Cruisers ruled the jungles and mountains of Ecuador. Toughest vehicles ever. I needed something that was big enough to carry some people and haul some gear, so I started looking for a 60 series.

As I was looking online for the best rig for my money from anywhere in the USA I stumbled on some Canadian import diesels. I've always loved diesels. I narrowed my search. Then on a forum one night someone mentioned Steve Jackson from LandCruisersDirect.com and what a great reputation he had. So I went to the site. At the time Steve was selling his personal diesel 60 and I fell in love with it. But alas, it was more cash than I had set aside. We ended up working out a deal on an LJ78 Prado with about 170,000 kilometers on it.

I started reading about the problems with the 2L-TE engine and got a little worried. Steve assured me that while there were no guarantees for the future the engine was in good condition at the time so I decided to dive into with the idea that I'd take care of it, and if the day comes when it takes a dive I'll do what I need to do to fix it. And we closed the deal. Here are a couple of pics of the truck the way it sat at Steve's lot in Missouri:

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I live in Florida, so I worked it out to pick up the rig when I was in the midwest on business. In the meantime I had Steve's shop install an ARB front bumper, an OME lift, a roof rack, andhad a local shop put on a set of 32" Dick Cepek Fun Country tires. I couldn't wait to get to Ozark, Missouri, and on a blizzardy January day I met El Troque and started the drive home. Here is a picture of the truck when I took delivery.

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No pics for me either. Congrats!!
 
for some reason I only see red x's? Steve's a good guy
Thanks. Yes, Steve is a good guy, he's helped me several times since the purchase too. Pics are up now.

More story and pictures coming soon!
 
Looks great!

Put some Evans Waterless Coolant in that motor and you'll essentially eliminate the chance of future problems with overheating. Trust me on that one...

Keep us updated as the project progresses.
 
Looks great!

Put some Evans Waterless Coolant in that motor and you'll essentially eliminate the chance of future problems with overheating. Trust me on that one...

Keep us updated as the project progresses.

I did put in Evans several months ago, I'm sure it was largely due to reading your thread. Thanks for that. I do a lot of highway driving, normally 2-3 hours at a stretch and so far so good. You seem very confident that Evans will eliminated overheating problems, can you tell me more of why?
 
I did put in Evans several months ago, I'm sure it was largely due to reading your thread. Thanks for that. I do a lot of highway driving, normally 2-3 hours at a stretch and so far so good. You seem very confident that Evans will eliminated overheating problems, can you tell me more of why?

Right on, I'm glad you've already done the change over.

Evan's literature explains it, and I discuss how the 2LTE head cracks in the "improving the 2lte" thread I made. But basically here is how I see it:

Put an inch of water in a cast iron frying pan at home and put it on your stove on high. Watch the bubbles form a complete insulating layer in the bottom of the pan as it starts to heat up but before it boils. This is exactly what is happening around your pre-cups in your cylinder head when you are pushing your motor on a hot day. It also happens when you shut your motor off after a hot drive without letting it cool down first. I call it localized boiling.

The problem with localized boiling is air is far more insulating than water. This vapor barrier allows the hot areas of the cylinder head to get much much hotter. Other cooler areas of the cylinder head will remain roughly at coolant temperature. This hot-cold combination in the head causes a lot of stress. Repeated stress will lead to cracking and failure. Evan's has a boiling point of 375F. It makes a huge difference. It is enough to eliminate that localized boiling, which in turn eliminates these big temperature differentials. More even cooling of the head and less stress in the metal.

The ugly truth is, I don't care how hot my engine gets anymore. I've probably run up to 240-250F while towing up long hills on hot summer days. Coolant barely expands, engine runs great. No issues what so ever. The hotter the coolant compared to the ambient air, the more efficient the cooling becomes. So what I've found is with the extra temperature head room from Evans, the engine eventually stops getting hotter, even if I'm still hammering it up a big hill towing. I was scared at first, but now after a few years of this, I think the evidence is there.

Some great side benefits are no corrosion in the cooling system, and a much longer coolant life.

Here is a illustration of the 'localized boiling' in a gasoline engine. Same concept for the diesel.

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