semlin
curmudgeon
My problems sound puny besides Dan's issues, but I'll report anyway.
Bought a vacuum pump/gauge and did some tinkering with the EGR. It was in complete disaaray. I am guessing there in no emissions testing in utah because no one has touched this system in a while or maybe ever.
EGR modulator filter was so choked with carbon I couldn't get it out in one piece. It is completely blocked. The hose between modulator and egr valve crumbled at the valve end when I touched it. Part of the metal nipple on ther egr valve crumbled into many pieces inside the hose. The hose to the VSV was in similar shape. It seemed like a seam running the length of the hose had also disintegrated.
Can't get a new filter until monday at the earliers so I cleaned out the modulator as best I could with compressed air, and have the bad hoses temporarily replaced with windshield/vacuum hose for now and I put what's left of the filter back in the modulator on the theory something is better than nothing.
With the modulator filter in such rough shape I don't know what use the vacuum tests are but I did them anyway. I get no vacuum at all at cold or hot engine temperatures at 2500 rpm so I fail the FSM test. With engine off I can induce vacuum with the pump through the egr valve at the nipple that goes to the modulator, but it loses pressure quickly. Can't get any vacuum from the VSV nipple end. Not sure if you're supposed to.
Also got a nasty shock when I opened the DLC / diagnostic for the first time. All the contacts are full of white greasey stuff. Is this maybe dielectric grease or something? Anyway, the system seems to work. Jumping the E1 and TE1 yields a steady flashing check engine light so no codes. As far as I can tell from the FSM, this also indicates the DLC is working.
Anyway, as usual I have a bunch of questions if anyone knows the answers:
1. PN# for the modulator filter (dealer says it's not available separately) or is there a possible substitute if you can't get this separately?
2. are there any specifications for the small hoses in the EGR system? I notice some say #1 on the side while some say #0. Not sure if heat sensistivity is an issue. As usual my Toyota dealer had no idea and gave me a bunch of 5/32 vacuum/windshield line. Not anxious to have it melt on me if there are heat requirements.
3. Should/can you clean the modulator beyond replacing the filter? I have blown air through all the nipples using an aerosal can. Is there anything else to do? Given how bad the filter was does the modulator need replacing?
4. There appears to be enough of the nipple left on the EGR valve to preserve a vacuum with a hose over it, but why would it disintegrate like that? Every nipple on the EGR system I checked had rust where it contacts the hoses, but the hoses were really bad where they contacted the EGR valve and something had clearly eaten the rubber away down to the lining for about an inch away from the valve. The EGR feeder pipe was cold to the touch when I checked it after warming up. Could there be oil in these lines or would that just be the egr valve getting very hot after running long distances?
5 I haven't taken the EGR valve off yet as I don't see what I could do except replace it and I can't get parts until next week. Given the vacuum test result should I just do that or is it worth waiting to see if a clean moulator filter or maybe some VSV work is going to magically change everything.
6. Should I set some time aside to pull the cover and get at the VSV to test it given the vacuum result? It looks like a 3 or 4 banana job in the FSM.
Anyway, on the bright side the engine seems to sound quieter and smoother with these hoses replaced. Or at least I will keep telling myself that
Bought a vacuum pump/gauge and did some tinkering with the EGR. It was in complete disaaray. I am guessing there in no emissions testing in utah because no one has touched this system in a while or maybe ever.
EGR modulator filter was so choked with carbon I couldn't get it out in one piece. It is completely blocked. The hose between modulator and egr valve crumbled at the valve end when I touched it. Part of the metal nipple on ther egr valve crumbled into many pieces inside the hose. The hose to the VSV was in similar shape. It seemed like a seam running the length of the hose had also disintegrated.
Can't get a new filter until monday at the earliers so I cleaned out the modulator as best I could with compressed air, and have the bad hoses temporarily replaced with windshield/vacuum hose for now and I put what's left of the filter back in the modulator on the theory something is better than nothing.
With the modulator filter in such rough shape I don't know what use the vacuum tests are but I did them anyway. I get no vacuum at all at cold or hot engine temperatures at 2500 rpm so I fail the FSM test. With engine off I can induce vacuum with the pump through the egr valve at the nipple that goes to the modulator, but it loses pressure quickly. Can't get any vacuum from the VSV nipple end. Not sure if you're supposed to.
Also got a nasty shock when I opened the DLC / diagnostic for the first time. All the contacts are full of white greasey stuff. Is this maybe dielectric grease or something? Anyway, the system seems to work. Jumping the E1 and TE1 yields a steady flashing check engine light so no codes. As far as I can tell from the FSM, this also indicates the DLC is working.
Anyway, as usual I have a bunch of questions if anyone knows the answers:
1. PN# for the modulator filter (dealer says it's not available separately) or is there a possible substitute if you can't get this separately?
2. are there any specifications for the small hoses in the EGR system? I notice some say #1 on the side while some say #0. Not sure if heat sensistivity is an issue. As usual my Toyota dealer had no idea and gave me a bunch of 5/32 vacuum/windshield line. Not anxious to have it melt on me if there are heat requirements.
3. Should/can you clean the modulator beyond replacing the filter? I have blown air through all the nipples using an aerosal can. Is there anything else to do? Given how bad the filter was does the modulator need replacing?
4. There appears to be enough of the nipple left on the EGR valve to preserve a vacuum with a hose over it, but why would it disintegrate like that? Every nipple on the EGR system I checked had rust where it contacts the hoses, but the hoses were really bad where they contacted the EGR valve and something had clearly eaten the rubber away down to the lining for about an inch away from the valve. The EGR feeder pipe was cold to the touch when I checked it after warming up. Could there be oil in these lines or would that just be the egr valve getting very hot after running long distances?
5 I haven't taken the EGR valve off yet as I don't see what I could do except replace it and I can't get parts until next week. Given the vacuum test result should I just do that or is it worth waiting to see if a clean moulator filter or maybe some VSV work is going to magically change everything.
6. Should I set some time aside to pull the cover and get at the VSV to test it given the vacuum result? It looks like a 3 or 4 banana job in the FSM.
Anyway, on the bright side the engine seems to sound quieter and smoother with these hoses replaced. Or at least I will keep telling myself that