Well, I haven't worked on a 1KZ-TE, but on the 2L-TE I removed the venturi body to access the screws holding in the butterfly plates, they had to be drilled out because the ends were peened over.
EGR Delete 1kzte (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Roastchestnuts
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Awesome I'll sort that tomorrow, cheers
- Thread starter
- #23
take some pictures if you can! I am thinking of doing this as well. Hopefully I get my parts before the weekend too. Thanks!
Yeah no problem! Will post an update when done.
you should leave the butterfly's in, I wish I did, when messing with the spill valve to get more boost its easy to make the motor run away( I know because it happened) if I had left the butterfly's in it would have shut down straight away but a small sheet of aluminium plate flat against the turbo works to stop this
What wheels do you have? Love those!
- Thread starter
- #27
I have not sure of the model number but they are made by Method. I actually just purchased some stock 70 series steel rims yesterday that should be here next week. So these tires and wheels will be no longer on the kzj78. I think the 12.50 tire width is too much. they rub a little too at full steering lock. I am going to have some 235 85 16 tires mounted.
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eh, the whole point of EGR is to let the engine run less hot, in order to have it produce less NOx's. So eliminating the EGR will not help your engine run coolker on a summer day...
Hello,
Yes, the idea of EGR is to reduce nitrogen oxides formation by regulating the temperature. However, Toyota could not do this in an efficient way with both the 2L-TE and 1KZ-TE engines. Furthermore, these engines had to move a rather big vehicle, something that did not help. Toyota can make mistakes as well.
And engineering mistakes usually lead to catastrophic failure. This is why, unlike other professionals, engineers cannot cover their mistakes. There is no margin for shoddy engineering, but that is another story.
One way to prevent these two engines from puking their entrails is deleting their EGR systems and keeping them cool by other means, such as a different coolant, a different thermostat and an intercooler, among other things.
Juan
Yes, the idea of EGR is to reduce nitrogen oxides formation by regulating the temperature. However, Toyota could not do this in an efficient way with both the 2L-TE and 1KZ-TE engines. Furthermore, these engines had to move a rather big vehicle, something that did not help. Toyota can make mistakes as well.
And engineering mistakes usually lead to catastrophic failure. This is why, unlike other professionals, engineers cannot cover their mistakes. There is no margin for shoddy engineering, but that is another story.
One way to prevent these two engines from puking their entrails is deleting their EGR systems and keeping them cool by other means, such as a different coolant, a different thermostat and an intercooler, among other things.
Juan
I'm stuck on what seems like it should be an easy step of the EGR delete. I've got all 4 nuts/bolts for the EGR pipe undone, but there is a heater pipe about 1/2" behind the pipe that prevents the pipe assembly from being pulled far enough away from the engine to get off the 3 studs used to attach it. How the heck do you get the pipe off?
I don't want to use much more brute force than I've already tried as the result might be bending that heater pipe. I don't know that I can remove the studs in large part because of access issues, plus if one of those studs broke off, I'd be completely screwed. This one has me beaten so far.
I don't want to use much more brute force than I've already tried as the result might be bending that heater pipe. I don't know that I can remove the studs in large part because of access issues, plus if one of those studs broke off, I'd be completely screwed. This one has me beaten so far.
Ended up cutting the EGR pipe in half to get it off, but I dont think everyone had to get that drastic.
That solution dawned on me, but I usually try and find non-destructive solutions in case things go sideways on me and I need to restore things back to original. At this point, though, I'm out of ideas. My experience is usually somebody else has a good solution... "just loosen X and that will create wiggle room" kind of stuff.
I've given up on a sophisticated solution. How did you cut off the pipe? I can't figure out how to get access... grinder is too big, dremel goes in at an angle so won't go through the pipe, metal hand saw doesn't give me room... struggling to find a tool that can cut a pipe but still work its way into that little spot.
Your best bet is probably to drain some coolant, undo that rubber heater hose, then unbolt the hard heater hose from the firewall and that should allow you to move it out of the way enough.
It took me a bit of messing around but I was able to pull it out from the turbo side. It was a lot of pushing and pulling back and forth, but once I got it at a certain angle it came out fairly easily
It's actually the metal piping, not the rubber. I had already removed all the rubber hosing and the heater valve as I'm doing this at the same time as replacing the radiator, all coolant hoses, and adding EGT/boost/water temp gauges.
Thx for the ideas. I couldn't get it off the 3 studs on either side. I tried a couple tiny hacksaws but that would have taken weeks. I ended up using a Dremel (the only powered tool I could get in the space, but barely) and went through grinder wheels to cut enough of the pipe that I could bend it enough to get the assembly off the studs. Another hour of wiggling and bending and I finally got the assembly out. The dremel wheels were too small to cut all the way through the pipe and access was too limited to get the tool to cut around the circumference.
For anyone pursuing this later... the studs on the intake side must not have threads until they exit the EGR pipe assembly mount, so apparently you need to remove both studs to secure a blank over the intake hole. I'm not sure if enough thread sticks out past the EGR mount, but if you could remove the studs first, the pipe would come off and out much easier. I though about removing the studs instead of cutting and bending the pipe, but a) I didn't know yet I'd be removing them anyway, and b) I was fearful that if I sheared a stud, I'd be in deep deep trouble... which is still the case, I guess since I still have the risk of breaking a stud to install the blank, but at least there is better access to the studs with the EGR pipe removed, so less chance of shearing a stud. I hope.
Can somebody walk me through how the butterfly valves in the throttle body work and how they are controlled? I'm having a starting problem / symptom that I don't think started until after I completed the EGR delete and I'm wondering if they are related. I'm asking about the butterfly valves in case it has something to do with the vacuum system and how I reconnected it (or damaged it) after the EGR delete and maybe that's impacting the startup. I know the big butterfly is the throttle, but what is the little one, how is it controlled, and is it involved in starts? There is the one VSV valve with a vacuum tube running to the throttle body and I broke the black plastic filter or cover off of it, so maybe that's a problem. Or maybe some of the tubing is cracked and I should have replaced it.
Here are my symptoms: My startups aren't as quick and clean as they were before - takes more turns, sometimes a lot more, and it belches a bunch more white smoke (unburned diesel) right at the start. It runs completely fine after this. The problem is much worse the colder it is, but even hot starts are less efficient than many months ago. It behaves to my non-diesel certified amateur internet sluething understanding similar to what I would expect if the glow plugs were bad, but I just replaced those at the same time as the injectors about 6 months ago and for awhile it was fine... granted it was also much warmer then than now. I've done a prelim check of the glow system and it's seeing 11V at the rail, so if it's the glow plugs, it would have to be the plugs themselves. I did used the HKT metal tipped plugs instead of the Toyota ceramic tipped version... that could be an issue. Before I go to the expense of replacing the pretty damn new HKT glow plugs, I'd like to make sure I didn't do something with the vacuum system that's causing the butterfly valves to screw up my starts.
Here are my symptoms: My startups aren't as quick and clean as they were before - takes more turns, sometimes a lot more, and it belches a bunch more white smoke (unburned diesel) right at the start. It runs completely fine after this. The problem is much worse the colder it is, but even hot starts are less efficient than many months ago. It behaves to my non-diesel certified amateur internet sluething understanding similar to what I would expect if the glow plugs were bad, but I just replaced those at the same time as the injectors about 6 months ago and for awhile it was fine... granted it was also much warmer then than now. I've done a prelim check of the glow system and it's seeing 11V at the rail, so if it's the glow plugs, it would have to be the plugs themselves. I did used the HKT metal tipped plugs instead of the Toyota ceramic tipped version... that could be an issue. Before I go to the expense of replacing the pretty damn new HKT glow plugs, I'd like to make sure I didn't do something with the vacuum system that's causing the butterfly valves to screw up my starts.
2 VSVs, VSV 1 is connected to chamber A of the actuator and VSV 2 is connected to chamber B of the actuator
There's three running scenarios:
1) EGR valve is closed resulting in air with no exhaust gases; in that scenario ECU is not sending a signal to either of these VSVs so you have no vacuum going into the actuator leaving butterfly completely open
2) EGR system is in operation so the ECU sends a signal to the EGR valve to open letting exhaust gases recirculating into the inlet manifold; here VSV number two is open so you're getting a vacuum into the lower chamber of the actuator and the butterfly closes halfway (vacuum chamber B and not into chamber A) since VSV1 is still closed.
3) Shutdown - ECU sends a signal to both VSV 1 and VSV 2; vacuum into chamber A and chamber B butterfly closes completely smoothing shutdown
Seems like you could have an issue with the vac lines for either A or B coming out of the actuator OR either of the VSVs since you need both for a smooth shutdown. Tubing much cheaper than the glow plugs - a good place to start
This vid. helped me a lot and he walks through the summary above with good pics.:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPF0vECJAZ8
There's three running scenarios:
1) EGR valve is closed resulting in air with no exhaust gases; in that scenario ECU is not sending a signal to either of these VSVs so you have no vacuum going into the actuator leaving butterfly completely open
2) EGR system is in operation so the ECU sends a signal to the EGR valve to open letting exhaust gases recirculating into the inlet manifold; here VSV number two is open so you're getting a vacuum into the lower chamber of the actuator and the butterfly closes halfway (vacuum chamber B and not into chamber A) since VSV1 is still closed.
3) Shutdown - ECU sends a signal to both VSV 1 and VSV 2; vacuum into chamber A and chamber B butterfly closes completely smoothing shutdown
Seems like you could have an issue with the vac lines for either A or B coming out of the actuator OR either of the VSVs since you need both for a smooth shutdown. Tubing much cheaper than the glow plugs - a good place to start
This vid. helped me a lot and he walks through the summary above with good pics.:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPF0vECJAZ8
