EGR Cooler delete - sheared bolts (2 Viewers)

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San Antonio, TX
Evening all. Hoping for some sage wisdom and advice from the 60 fam!!!

I am working through de-smogging my 84 FJ60. While attempting to loosen bolts and remove the j-pipe, both bolts sheared. This obviously poses a problem with simply bolting on the MAF block off plate and gasket provided with their de-smog kit.

Any thoughts on best way to sort this out. At first blush, welding the plate in place seems to be the ticket. My question would be 'How?'. Is the spot that it bolts in a removable union of sort? It appears that way but I obviously can't see roughly of 1/3 of the area from top/side/bottom. I have circled the area on this diagram for clarification. The bolt/nut(s) that sheered is 90179-08128. Searching SOR, it appears what I have actually broken off is the 'EGR pipe stud' (link - part 21). Redline has nifty pics on their site of what appears to be studs pulled and hex head screws securing the plate and gasket in place (link). I struggle to imagine how I would pull this off upside down and left handed on my carport.

Thanks in advance to anyone who can provide me with a nudge.

sheered bolt.png
 
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The front and back ends of the manifold, sometimes called the “horns”, do swivel and slide in and out. But I can’t imagine that happening with the manifold in place. Especially at the rear. And it wouldn’t get you any closer to welding the plate on.

Many others have sheared those studs, myself included. But I did it with the manifold removed and on the bench, and I drilled and re-tapped to get back to where I needed to be. I was not desmogging - I was switching to the stainless SOR j-pipe, but it’s the same basic problem.

Someone else may have figured out a way to drill out those two sheared studs with the manifold in place. But you might start thinking about pulling the manifold and all that entails. If you’re desmogging anyway it’s less of a headache, because in my experience it’s the smog equipment that makes that job annoying.
 
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The front and back ends of the manifold, sometimes called the “horns”, do swivel and slide in and out. But I can’t imagine that happening with the manifold in place. Especially at the rear. And it wouldn’t get you any closer to welding the plate on.

Many others have sheared those studs, myself included. But I did it with the manifold removed and on the bench, and I drilled and re-tapped to get back to where I needed to be. I was not desmogging - I was switching to the stainless SOR j-pipe, but it’s the same basic problem.

Someone else may have figured out a way to drill out those two sheared studs with the manifold in place. But you might start thinking about pulling the manifold and all that entails. If you’re desmogging anyway it’s less of a headache, because in my experience it’s the smog equipment that makes that job annoying.
I sure appreciate the quick response!

I'll start digging on what is required to eject the manifold and get that sucker tapped and properly sorted out.

This 'little' de-smog project has become quite the adventure. A learning experience no doubt.
 
If you can mig weld or have a friend that can, get two 8mm nuts then spot weld a flat washer to each then weld the center of the nut to what’s left of the broken stud, let cool a bit then spin them out. All accomplished once the manifold is on a workbench.
 
If you can mig weld or have a friend that can, get two 8mm nuts then spot weld a flat washer to each then weld the center of the nut to what’s left of the broken stud, let cool a bit then spin them out. All accomplished once the manifold is on a workbench.
Thank you for the input.

I have very limited welding skills so I'll be taking this to a local welder. I'll share this note with them.
 
If you can mig weld or have a friend that can, get two 8mm nuts then spot weld a flat washer to each then weld the center of the nut to what’s left of the broken stud, let cool a bit then spin them out. All accomplished once the manifold is on a workbench.
Thank you for the input.

I have very limited welding skills so I'll be taking this to a local welder. I'll share this note with them.
 

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