Here's a super cheap and easy way to locate an ECM that allows you to remove it in seconds, while tightly securing in place and allowing it to dissipate heat.
You'll need the following:
32" 1/4"x1" Aluminum bar stock, HDPE, Polypropylene, Starboard
Note: if you use metal you might want to rubber sheet or rubberized coating material
24" of 1/4x20 all-thread rod
16ea. 1/4" hex nuts
4ea. 1/4" wing nuts
4ea. 1/4" square nuts
24ea. 1/4" Flat washers
Cut 4 sections of the 1/4" All-Thread to 5" in length (champher rough ends to accept nuts)
Cut 4 Strips of Aluminum bar, HDPE, etc to 8" in length
Stack and evenly clamp all 4 pieces of 8" long stock and measure in 1/2" from both ends with all pieces stacked evenly
Drill a hole dead center at the 1/2" marks at both ends. All for pieces should be identically drilled when finished.
Turn 1 hex nut approx. 2-1/2" from 1 end of each of the 4 rods and drop a flat washer on top of each nut.
Take 1 section of 1" bar stock or substitute and push a section of threaded rod through each hole with nut and flat washer against the bottom of bar stock
Drop a flat washer and turn a nut down until the bar stock is locked between nuts/washers above and below it
Repeat above steps for second or rear half of bracket base.
Note: if you want to insulate the rod use flexible 1/4" tubing to overlap the rods between bracket stock
Using your totally disconnected ECM, center it directly between the 2 vertical rods, supported by the bar stock base, with about 2" of ECM in front of the bracket
Insert another section of 8" stock directly above the top of the ECM, through the holes over the rods on both sides and drop a flat washer over the rod then clamp it with the wing nuts
Repeat above steps for the rear bracket until the ECM freely stands evenly on the 4 columns of rod.
Note: to make this truly accessible you'll want to have your harness connections forward facing
Test fit your best location by placing the assembly inside the empty glove box and adjust the position of the ECM to your needs.
When you decided where it will stay, mark the bottom of the glove box and remove the ECM while still locked in the bracket
Set the bracket on a sheet of paper or cardborad and make a drilling template by tracing the location of each of the 4 athreaded posts.
Remove the heater duct below the glove box and dill the 4ea 1/4" mounting holes
Turn a 1/4" hex nut approx 1/4" up from the bottom of the 4 rods w/ a flat washer under each nut
Align all 4 posts through holes in glove box bottom and secure them in place using the 4ea. 1/4" square nuts (use these thin nuts to avoid conflict with top of heat duct)
You can also screw your OBD connection into the top front bracket
I also installed the ECM fuse block immediately in front of it.
You'll need the following:
32" 1/4"x1" Aluminum bar stock, HDPE, Polypropylene, Starboard
Note: if you use metal you might want to rubber sheet or rubberized coating material
24" of 1/4x20 all-thread rod
16ea. 1/4" hex nuts
4ea. 1/4" wing nuts
4ea. 1/4" square nuts
24ea. 1/4" Flat washers
Cut 4 sections of the 1/4" All-Thread to 5" in length (champher rough ends to accept nuts)
Cut 4 Strips of Aluminum bar, HDPE, etc to 8" in length
Stack and evenly clamp all 4 pieces of 8" long stock and measure in 1/2" from both ends with all pieces stacked evenly
Drill a hole dead center at the 1/2" marks at both ends. All for pieces should be identically drilled when finished.
Turn 1 hex nut approx. 2-1/2" from 1 end of each of the 4 rods and drop a flat washer on top of each nut.
Take 1 section of 1" bar stock or substitute and push a section of threaded rod through each hole with nut and flat washer against the bottom of bar stock
Drop a flat washer and turn a nut down until the bar stock is locked between nuts/washers above and below it
Repeat above steps for second or rear half of bracket base.
Note: if you want to insulate the rod use flexible 1/4" tubing to overlap the rods between bracket stock
Using your totally disconnected ECM, center it directly between the 2 vertical rods, supported by the bar stock base, with about 2" of ECM in front of the bracket
Insert another section of 8" stock directly above the top of the ECM, through the holes over the rods on both sides and drop a flat washer over the rod then clamp it with the wing nuts
Repeat above steps for the rear bracket until the ECM freely stands evenly on the 4 columns of rod.
Note: to make this truly accessible you'll want to have your harness connections forward facing
Test fit your best location by placing the assembly inside the empty glove box and adjust the position of the ECM to your needs.
When you decided where it will stay, mark the bottom of the glove box and remove the ECM while still locked in the bracket
Set the bracket on a sheet of paper or cardborad and make a drilling template by tracing the location of each of the 4 athreaded posts.
Remove the heater duct below the glove box and dill the 4ea 1/4" mounting holes
Turn a 1/4" hex nut approx 1/4" up from the bottom of the 4 rods w/ a flat washer under each nut
Align all 4 posts through holes in glove box bottom and secure them in place using the 4ea. 1/4" square nuts (use these thin nuts to avoid conflict with top of heat duct)
You can also screw your OBD connection into the top front bracket
I also installed the ECM fuse block immediately in front of it.