Edit: Rust in Coolant Flush (2 Viewers)

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Look you need to hurry or else your going to chase your tail. Once you start removing thermocure / flushing it out , the inside will begin to rust. You have to do this fast or in a day because overnight it will rust again.

Ask me how I know, just go ahead 😞🤯

you got to get your coolant in there sooner than later or keep it empty until you can replace the parts and refill
I don't think an engine block will flash rust fast enough to be an issue. The rust he is dealing with is not simple flash rusting.
 
I also realized I have a hard pipe that is missing chunks from rust on the end. Rust colored goo came off when removing the hose. This is the same expensive pipe that the PO used sealant on at the other end near the engine. Going to have to take this off and trim off the rust. I guess I can just use a longer hose to the firewall. Unless I find this pipe somewhere where it isn't $150.
I ordered mine from impex.com, It was like 50$, not counting shipping.
 
I don't think an engine block will flash rust fast enough to be an issue. The rust he is dealing with is not simple flash rusting.

I went ahead and did a drain/fill 3 times after running the engine/heat for 5 minutes. It's not bad. The color is not clear but it's much better than before. No chunks of crap at all. Slight yellow color. I went ahead and filled up with 50% coolant. It might take me a month to get the next round of stuff done with the radiator and it's probably best to have coolant in the engine passageways.

My to do: oil pump gasket, new rad, new fan clutch, new hoses for everything except fuel (for now), power steering pump leak fix, distributor leak fix, new wires, put in correct plugs, fix leaking valve cover gasket, and all of the easy/low cost little stuff that goes along with this. I'll do a compression test for good measure.

I ordered mine from impex.com, It was like 50$, not counting shipping.

Wow, thanks!
 
You got it to 207°F sitting in the driveway?

You have a problem.

Did you install your thermostat correctly? First pointing the right direction in the hole, second, with the jiggle vale at 12:00 in the hole so the air can bleed out past the tstat. Any time you are doing flushes, you SHOULD be doing it WITHOUT the tstat installed so it can all free-flow better. The engine will not come up to temperature as much. It will stay cold.

I still don't understand why everyone keeps wanting to do chemical flushed on these, when all that's going to do is dislodge any stuff that's keeping the holes from leaking. In all my years, I have never seen a radiator plug UNLESS there was a catastrophic failure and got oil in the coolant, or simple, basic maintenance was NEVER performed.

The chemical flushes will erode the insides of your steel coolant lines, eat the aluminum oxidation from the aluminum parts, exposing pits and potential leaks, and remove any "stop leak" crud the PO put in it before he sold it to you.

Nothing good EVER comes from this level of flushing.

Just use distilled water a number of times and call it good.

This is my general safe advice now. That chemical flush stuff like Thermocure can clean it out, but you can also open a can of worms with chasing pinhole leaks. If you have to drive that truck to work when the weekend is over, then do not use that stuff. If it's sitting and you plan on going through it, then by all means go ahead.

I had the same coolant sludge in a 5VZ 4Runner. I was able to get it clean using Dawn dish soap after it laughed at 12 flushes of distilled water. After a few flushes the bubbles will dissipate. I filled it with Toyota pink coolant and have not had sludge since.
 
If you have to drive that truck to work when the weekend is over, then do not use that stuff. If it's sitting and you plan on going through it, then by all means go ahead.

Thanks for the advice. I am lucky enough that my daily driver is an 03 4Runner until I can get the LC80 baselined. I am going to try to put some miles on the LC to be sure everything is operating as expected and then tear into the rest of the work.
 
I ordered mine from impex.com, It was like 50$, not counting shipping.

Just wanted to come back to the thread because I have not seen much written about Impex as a parts vendor. @Njck22 's suggestion was a huge help.

All-in I paid $77 for the heater pipe vs $165 shipped from McGeorge or $125 shipped from Partsouq. It took about 3 weeks to get the part. The savings was absolutely worth it for me.

FYI - First, Impex orders the part into their warehouse. You pay for a shipping estimate in a second transaction. I actually had to pay shipping a second time to cover additional costs based on weight. It was still $77 all-in so it was no problem.

Partsouq is still proving to be the best overall experience for me. Many times parts arrive from the UAE faster than toyotapartsdeal.com, which only has to ship from Atlanta to Florida. FEDEX or UPS ground would normally only be 1 day transit time. The issue is they use USPS and take a lot longer to process orders. I've had similar experiences with McGeorge. Even though they are in Virginia, it can still take over a full week to get parts.

The most interesting discovery for parts has been a local dealer of mine. We have ~4 Toyota dealers in the area and I discovered one of them runs an online parts business. The pricing isn't as good as TPD or McGeorge but I come out ahead avoiding shipping charges. The upside is I still get to deal with one parts guy who knows me but I can place my orders online. I searched some other cities in Florida and noticed a number of them also run an online parts business like this and support local pickup.

If Witt's End sells what I need, then I usually just support them and call it a day.
 
Glad you got it. I should have linked this thread for more information about ordering from impex. What I found cool was my heater parts came in denso branded bags. Never seen before but makes perfect sense.
 

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