Edit: Rust in Coolant Flush

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In September to November I get the best work done since the weather stabilizes here. Just persevere. How’s the flushing going? Did you fabricate the pvc to do a reverse flush?
 

florida95fzj

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In September to November I get the best work done since the weather stabilizes here. Just persevere. How’s the flushing going? Did you fabricate the pvc to do a reverse flush?
No PVC attachment but I have a hose attachment that fits the openings. About to do another flush right now.
 

florida95fzj

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Got it drained 3 times today and one long test drive after the last fill. Still getting to 220F but I was not really expecting any change. I am at 25 gallons of waste so far. It's getting slightly lighter in color so hopefully 3-4 more drains will do the trick.
 
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you know as I’m following this thread I can’t help but think you’ve got some blockage somewhere and you really need to back flush. I’d even start inspecting all of the hoses even if they look good.
 

florida95fzj

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you know as I’m following this thread I can’t help but think you’ve got some blockage somewhere and you really need to back flush. I’d even start inspecting all of the hoses even if they look good.
I back flushed the heater core and the radiator itself on the first day and the radiator again yesterday. Had a pretty good flow that went clear on the upper radiator opening. I haven't figured out the best way to flush the engine itself.

I have new hoses for everything. I should be able to start replacing them shortly and may do that before pulling the radiator. Once I get that heater bypass pipe gasket, I'll remove/clean up the sealant mess.
 

florida95fzj

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Only got to drain once today. Coolant still looking light brown. 20 minutes in the driveway with the heater on got up to 155F.

If tomorrow's drain isn't a lighter color, I will run the thermocure until I get up to 220F, cool off, and drive some more.

signal-2021-09-04-180307_002.jpeg


signal-2021-09-04-180307_001.jpeg
 
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Hey if you haven’t , check that fan clutch. Even if new, it could be a dud. I wouldn’t rule it out . Saw a video on YouTube and it was a faulty (new) fan clutch causing a dodge truck to overheating
 

florida95fzj

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Hey if you haven’t , check that fan clutch. Even if new, it could be a dud. I wouldn’t rule it out . Saw a video on YouTube and it was a faulty (new) fan clutch causing a dodge truck to overheating

Will do. Still running the old one right now and will change with the new radiator goes in. Glad that you mentioned it. The fan is spinning immediately when starting the engine but I haven't given much thought to it overall. I don't know if it is working as it should.
 
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whoa, I would literally stop what you are doing and get that fan clutch replaced ASAP. Amazon has the AISIN ones really cheap. I didn't go frankenstein and do the whole 30k oil stuff some guys did, but I knew my fan clutch was original from 1994. Just so you know, about all of the nuts stripped and I had to buy oem nuts and bolts from toyota dealership while i did this. had to wait a week for nuts to come to the dealer.

Baselining the coolant system, I wanted as much NEW parts I could throw from Toyota/AISIN/TRad etc. give in to the OCD, fire the parts cannon and do it. I think that is the MAIN culprit for your overheating... the oil inside the fan clutch is: weak, and inferior. now times that by 20+ years and use. recipe for failure.
 

florida95fzj

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whoa, I would literally stop what you are doing and get that fan clutch replaced ASAP. Amazon has the AISIN ones really cheap.

Yeah, I got the AISIN one off Amazon. I'm not driving anywhere except around the block until I get the cleaning done and then the parts replaced.

Edit: drained this morning and the color is exactly the same as the last few drains. I will run Thermocure for a few days and see if it comes out gray/black. I did not realize/understand that it would turn the iron to liquid and this is the color I would see to confirm rust.
 
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florida95fzj

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With the Thermocure in the system I was about 10F degrees cooler for my 30 minute test drive. The outside temp is 92F / 104F (heat index) here and that's about the same as last weekend when I was getting up to 220F.

Today I maxed out at 210F with the AC on full blast with speeds between 30-50MPH. I also ran with the heat on high to circulate coolant through the heater core.

The claim is that rust is an insulator and can have a negative impact on the cooling system. I'll need to examine the color of the water when I dump to verify there really is/was a rust problem.

The directions say you need 4 hours of driving time up to 7 days. I'll follow those directions and then dump it. Hopefully then it will run clear and be sediment free so I can install all of the new parts.
 

florida95fzj

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The Thermocure kept the temp in a great place all week. It was pretty remarkable.

This is what came out:

IMG_8960.jpg


The guys from Thermocure said if I can eventually get clear water to come out with no flakes I won't need another round. I guess we'll see if that rust was helping keep anything from leaking but I'd rather find out now.

It took 30 gallons of water to get things to run clear. I extended the heater hose-to-engine connection so I could use a a garden hose to flush. I also flushed some from the top of the radiator out these hoses.

I got one round of distilled water back in but it's going to take more rounds of running the engine, drain, and fill. I could tell from the funnel that the Thermocure wasn't all the way out.

I also realized I have a hard pipe that is missing chunks from rust on the end. Rust colored goo came off when removing the hose. This is the same expensive pipe that the PO used sealant on at the other end near the engine. Going to have to take this off and trim off the rust. I guess I can just use a longer hose to the firewall. Unless I find this pipe somewhere where it isn't $150.

I will report back if Thermocure actually clears the water up or not. I appreciate all of the prior advice. I am almost done cleaning things up.

IMG_8958.jpg
 

JunkCrzr89

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The Thermocure kept the temp in a great place all week. It was pretty remarkable.

This is what came out:

View attachment 2783532

The guys from Thermocure said if I can eventually get clear water to come out with no flakes I won't need another round. I guess we'll see if that rust was helping keep anything from leaking but I'd rather find out now.

It took 30 gallons of water to get things to run clear. I extended the heater hose-to-engine connection so I could use a a garden hose to flush. I also flushed some from the top of the radiator out these hoses.

I got one round of distilled water back in but it's going to take more rounds of running the engine, drain, and fill. I could tell from the funnel that the Thermocure wasn't all the way out.

I also realized I have a hard pipe that is missing chunks from rust on the end. Rust colored goo came off when removing the hose. This is the same expensive pipe that the PO used sealant on at the other end near the engine. Going to have to take this off and trim off the rust. I guess I can just use a longer hose to the firewall. Unless I find this pipe somewhere where it isn't $150.

I will report back if Thermocure actually clears the water up or not. I appreciate all of the prior advice. I am almost done cleaning things up.

View attachment 2783542
The Thermocure will get ALL the rust out, but yeah, you’ll have to run a ton of water through to get the remnants of Thermocure out. I did similar to you and flushed most of the Thermocure out with a hose.
 

florida95fzj

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The Thermocure will get ALL the rust out, but yeah, you’ll have to run a ton of water through to get the remnants of Thermocure out. I did similar to you and flushed most of the Thermocure out with a hose.

I am doing a crappy job actually flushing with the garden hose I think. I saw a guy do it with the engine running and I think that was more efficient. I need to go back to the drawing board if my next drain or two is still too dark. I have to say I was pretty disappointed seeing non-clear water after 30 gallons of waste from the garden hose. I think the issue was that the entire system was not totally full under correct pressure.
 
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Look you need to hurry or else your going to chase your tail. Once you start removing thermocure / flushing it out , the inside will begin to rust. You have to do this fast or in a day because overnight it will rust again.

Ask me how I know, just go ahead 😞🤯

you got to get your coolant in there sooner than later or keep it empty until you can replace the parts and refill
 

florida95fzj

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Look you need to hurry or else your going to chase your tail. Once you start removing thermocure / flushing it out , the inside will begin to rust. You have to do this fast or in a day because overnight it will rust again.

Ask me how I know, just go ahead 😞🤯

you got to get your coolant in there sooner than later or keep it empty until you can replace the parts and refill

Yep, going to go out in a bit and get back to it.
 

fj80pb

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Perhaps a dumb question. Do you remove the thermostat every time you flush ? I know it's a PITA but that assures the whole system is flushed
Good luck!
Cheers!
 

florida95fzj

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Perhaps a dumb question. Do you remove the thermostat every time you flush ? I know it's a PITA but that assures the whole system is flushed
Good luck!
Cheers!

Excellent question. Yes, it's been out for this process. Looked to be installed correctly. New one is still in the box.
 

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