EDIC Motor Question.

[Fey1]

Hi all,

I'm in the process of installing a 2H my FJ40. I seem to be missing the EDIC relay that controls the EDIC servo motor. I am in the process of designing a new one. At the moment, my motor is not working. It's a 12V system. My questions to you guys are:

1. Does anyone know what current the motor draws? I need to properly spec the relay for the current required.

2. Does anyone know what the connecter specification is? It would be nice to use the OEM type of connector.

3. Provided that the relay works as I hope, I plane on making more than one. Would anyone be interested in buying one?


Thanks in advance!!

Cheers!

 

[Kynot62]

I am a bit of an electrical peasant but it is a bit more than an on/off relay if it is anything like the one I pulled out of my BJ 60.

Lots of wires coming out of it as it is also tied into the thermostat and oil pressure sensor for shut down purposes.

You may want to source an original and backwards engineer it if you are going to make them

Tony

 

[keving]

Im playing with one as we speak, trying to get a manual switch or switch(s) to activate it. When the ground spade is grounded, power can be applied to the spade next to the ground and the one below it and the arm will do different things, depending on which spade you energize. Im trying to figure out what the positions actually are (overinject etc...) There is a science to these little devices

 

[Fey1]

EDIC Relays and Servo Motors Explained.

Basically there are three types of relays that I have found (and there are likely more). They all work basically in the same way with a few minor changes. Disclaimer: This is based on my deductions and reverse engineering of the units that I have seen.

One operates with the EDIC servo motor that has a B+ line to it from the battery. It is connected to the EDIC relay box via 4 wires: S, D, O.I., and M. The Servo motor has a contact ring that has an outer ground ring and a inner B+ Ring. The B+ ring has a tab on it that extends out into the ground ring area. There are 5 contact wipers on this style ring: G, B+, S, D, and O.I. They are arranged so that the B+ is always connected to the center ring, G is always connected to the outer ring, and S, D, and O.I. are in the region of the B+ Tab and ground. How it works: The EDIC relay selects a position (S, D, or O.I.) based in it's inputs. This selection is then connected to the 'M' line, which is tied to one side of the electric motor. The other side of the electric motor is connected to B+. So, if the selected position is the 'current' one, the M line is also tied to B+, and since both motor terminals are at the same potential the motor does not run. However if the selected position is not the current position, the selected contact is at ground potential so the motor will run until the inner ring B+ tab is positioned at the selected contact position. Then motor then stops. Clear as mud?

This worked well, but having the contact ring (inner B+ and outer ground) set up in this manner can cause some problems: If for some reason the contact wipers are damaged or the relays in the EDIC relay stick closed, a direct short on the battery may occur. Not a good idea. This was later changed to the 4 wire only EDIC servo motor - they dropped the inner B+ ring as it was not really needed.

The four wire only EDIC servo motor was subtly different: The motor was internally connected to ground and the inner B+ ring was removed. But if the B+ ring was removed and the motor is internally connected to ground, how does it work? I hear you cry. It is fairly simple. The contacts on the ring (except for B+) were done in exactly the same way. The EDIC relay was also modified to include a third relay. This relay connects B+ to the motor via the 'M' wire.

A simple diagram is included that illustrates the two different contact rings.

Keving - I can give you a simple diagram for your switches if you would like. I would need to know that servo motor you have.

 

[Kynot62]

Fey

Now my brain hurts! No wonder they die later in life.... Figuring out the 4 wires off the motor seems straight forward but where I got lost is with the other 7 wires that go into the edic relay that is under the passenger kick panel in my BJ 60. But I really like the cable that now moves my injection pump.

Good luck with that new relay

Tony

 

[Fey1]

My brain always hurts.

 

[David*BJ70]

Maybe that can help... if you can read french and english dictionnary :

https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tec...814-edic-24v-rebuilding-repair-new-board.html & http://www.serie4.fr/mecaniques/pdf/20101220091552.pdf

I just wonder which component are different between a 12V and 24V system

 

[keving]

Fey1,, PM sent, thanks!
Tony, how do you know what position your shutdown cable is in? I have one in operation right now to and it works (on and off) but the EDIC had an overinject position to and im always wondering if im running overinject all the time, which I don't want to do.

 

[Fey1]

EDIC Positions

This is from the 2H manual, it's likely to be the same. If not, never mind...

The injector pump should default to the 'drive' position with nothing connected.

 

[Fey1]

Read it. Thanks!

 

[Kynot62]

Fey1,, PM sent, thanks!
Tony, how do you know what position your shutdown cable is in? I have one in operation right now to and it works (on and off) but the EDIC had an overinject position to and im always wondering if im running overinject all the time, which I don't want to do.

Kevin

Its the injection pump that has the overinject but I simplified it by only having run and stop. Works just fine this way.

My cable is set up so I have to pull it to run and push it in to stop. It can be done the other way as well. Run position is easily identified by pulling the edic motor arm, default for the injection pump is the run position. Cable stops limit the travel of the push pull motion, all the way one way is stop and all the way the other is run.

Here is how I did it The Wagon Way

Sorry for the hijack Fey

Tony

 

[Fey1]

Kevin



Sorry for the hijack Fey

Tony

No problem! Hey - nice site. I really like the pointers about sliders for the roof rack. Some good stuff in your postings.

 

[bj40green]

Maybe this thread can shine some light on EDIC problems.
It's a long thread but the EDIC trouble starts at post# 229.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tec...1-bj42-restoration-information-thread-12.html

Rudi

 

[Fey1]

Maybe this thread can shine some light on EDIC problems.
It's a long thread but the EDIC trouble starts at post# 229.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tec...1-bj42-restoration-information-thread-12.html

Rudi

Hey Rudi - I've read the series of posts (actually read it a few days ago). It looks to me like Dallas is trying to connect a two connector EDIC servo motor to a single connector EDIC controller. Correct? It is possible, and I have been looking into it myself. (Although I'd have to qualify that statement as provisional as I have not taken apart a single connector type controller as I do not have one) I believe that the interconnection of the two would require an additional external relay and some slight wiring changes.. No big thing to do.

Cheers,
Michael

 

[dmaddox]

Hello!

Close, but what I actually did is use the correct parts in both scenarios....I used a single connector EDIC and a single connector EDIC controller.

My problem was a fried EDIC controller. I had to take a multi-meter and check around on the controller board for issues - and I found a SPDT switch and a resistor that were bad. I had to find/source new parts and unsolder and resolder the old and new parts.

In doing so, I found that the switch in question takes control of what other fellas have been talking about in this thread. It is not just and on/off or forward and back mechanism.

You have key in the off position (full forward)
Start (over inject and fully toward the firewall)
Run (middle position).

Then, you have (as mentioned) the oil pressure system that cuts the fuel off as well (full forward) when there is an oil pressure issue.

I would imagine you could build a three position servo and connect them to the three positions on the EDIC motor (OFF/RUN/START) - but you'd have to bypass the oil pressure circuit. If that's the case, it would be a pretty easy build.

I would however suggest that you find a toasted EDIC controller for your rig, and repair it - if you are willing to go through the trouble of actually building one from scratch.

Good luck!

-dallas

 

[Fey1]

Hi Dallas,

Glad to hear that you got your issues sorted, and using the correct parts to boot! Good on you! The EDIC relay is no real mystery if you have a bit of electronics background or are will to dig into it and learn.

If it's fried, what have you got to loose. The problem seems often enough making the determination that it really is fried.

I got in touch with the guy who sold me the 2H and told him that it was missing. He posted me a used one straight away. That all being said, I still plan on going forward with building a brand new one from scratch. That way I'll have a spare. While I am at it, I'll bang off a few more and sell them. (This makes my accountant happy - I can write off the prototype and R&D and then I have a few to recoup the money that I spent.)

Cheers!

Michael

 

[Fey1]

Manual selection of EDIC servo position.

I have been asked for this so here it is. A simple circuit for manual selection of the EDIC servo position. Note that there is no provision for the oil pressure cut-off.

Other notes:
'IG' is the switched ignition power.
'B+' is fused (15A according to Toyota), unswitched power.
If you don't want over inject, SW1 may be omitted. Just connect 'G' to the N.O. contact of the relay.

 

[Bidgecleach]

In this schematic is "L" the white wire?

 

[bj40green]

In this schematic is "L" the white wire?

L=Light Blue
From left to right: Green, Yellow, Red, Light Blue.
Because B=Black, Toyota named the Blue color L for Light blue.

 

[Bidgecleach]

My motor has green yellow red and white is there any difference because i hooked mine up using this schematic and it doesn't work. I made L my white wire.