Ebay double carden drive shaft, any experience?

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Rick, have you looked what is under new Tacoma's and Tundra's? That might look like the ones we sell, but it is not the same. We do extra machining to the head assemblies to make them work properly on the 80.
 
What's that got to do with anything?

Sorry, forgot to add the smiley. Just saying that not all Spicer parts are that bad. Toyota uses it on the new driveshafts for some of the current trucks. If anyone can show me a genuine Koyo DC unit that can be bought aftermarket and used in driveshafts, I would be impressed. And I am not talking about the Koyo style as sold by Rockford (I believe)
 
OK, I heard they are also going to a crimp style tube as well so they can't be repaired. My source also says that the greaseless spicer joints are head and shoulders above the grease able ones. Now a zero maintenance shaft would be nice.
 
i've had the slee dc shaft and it's been very smooth & trouble free
 
OK, I heard they are also going to a crimp style tube as well so they can't be repaired. My source also says that the greaseless spicer joints are head and shoulders above the grease able ones. Now a zero maintenance shaft would be nice.

I would have to check if that has changed. I used non-greasable Spicers a long time ago and they did not last at all.
 
i've had the slee dc shaft and it's been very smooth & trouble free

thats cool! i have the Landtank dc shaft and it's been very smooth & trouble free:grinpimp:
 
i went with a slee front shaft after considering several options. the only complaint i have with the toyota cv shaft is that it is impossible to find a real NEW toyota cv to build a shaft from-all the "new" shafts made with toyota cv's are built from used toyota cv's. please show me any exception in any shop. i called around. tom woods has new toyota cv's in stock right now from which he makes new shafts but a month ago when i called there they admit they are not toyota cv's but aftermarket non toyota. tom said the 1310 is probably stronger than these fakes. tom told me the yota joint hype is just that-hype. if strength is realy an issue skip yota and go 1350 or bigger. after listening to my truck build tom woods told me to go 1310 on my shaft mainly because the truck is full time 4wd and vib free is more likely with a simple 1310. they didn't think it would brake as long as i didn't max out the cv (which may be an issue)

i have a turbod ifzfe, 42's, 1 tons, and a heavy rt foot. only 3 runs on the slee shaft but some nice crawling in calico coming up in a few weeks, and Cruise moab after that. i believe this truck is an excellent test platform for the slee shaft. if i break it ill let everone know.
 
Landtank, you sell DC driveshafts?

not really. As I travel for work I'll look around those areas for used Tacoma shafts and then have it modified as a spare. But some how i keep running out of spares. :D

I'm looking for my 7th spare as of now.

Considering the guys feedback score of 100% and the number of shafts he's done I'd be inclined to have him make me one if I needed one.

If you do order one you want it to be 32" long, compressed, flange to flange.
 
not really. As I travel for work I'll look around those areas for used Tacoma shafts and then have it modified as a spare. But some how i keep running out of spares. :D

I'm looking for my 7th spare as of now.

Considering the guys feedback score of 100% and the number of shafts he's done I'd be inclined to have him make me one if I needed one.

If you do order one you want it to be 32" long, compressed, flange to flange.

Cool, thanks for the help!

So, spares because you sell them or mangle them!? (If mangle, how!?)
 
my first two DC shafts had very short lives. So when I switched to a modified Tacoma shaft I wanted to have a spare around if I needed it. That hasn't been the case. The modified Tacoma shaft has out lived both of the previous ones.

And then friends do a lift and I help them out with a shaft and so on. Right now I have another 80 out back and a build in mind so I need another DC shaft at some point so I'll start looking again.
 
my first two DC shafts had very short lives. So when I switched to a modified Tacoma shaft I wanted to have a spare around if I needed it. That hasn't been the case. The modified Tacoma shaft has out lived both of the previous ones.

And then friends do a lift and I help them out with a shaft and so on. Right now I have another 80 out back and a build in mind so I need another DC shaft at some point so I'll start looking again.

RICK
were the failures the dc slee shafts?
 
RICK
were the failures the dc slee shafts?

Yes, try as I might I couldn't adequately grease the centering section of the first one and it eventually failed, the second shaft vibrated right out of the box.

But this was a while ago and might not be indicative of the current shafts he now offers. In a thread a while ago people posted pics of their DC shafts and while most were bought through Slee the CV joints were definitely different.
 
i went with a slee front shaft after considering several options. the only complaint i have with the toyota cv shaft is that it is impossible to find a real NEW toyota cv to build a shaft from-all the "new" shafts made with toyota cv's are built from used toyota cv's. please show me any exception in any shop.

True, to my knowledge the only ways to get a Toyota cv assembly is to buy a whole new shaft or refurbish a used one. This isn’t cost feasible for someone who makes and sells them, so they are stuck making aftermarket parts work.

... tom said the 1310 is probably stronger than these fakes.

True and possibly stronger than the stock joints, but for most that’s not an issue. I have seen Toyota joints take one hell of a beating, square shafts walking the whole rig sideways on rock, yokes rock worn down so the caps are protruding, etc, most original ~20yr old joints. If your breaking stockers there are bigger/stronger available, but for most uses stockers are plenty strong.

... tom told me the yota joint hype is just that-hype. ...

Tom knows more about shafts than I do, so if he says Toyota joints are hype then so be it. I equip my junk more from experience, so here is some of my experiences with Toyota “hype” and other joints:

Toyota joints have triple lip seals pressed inside of the caps, these are very good at rejecting moisture, debris, hard to damage, etc, greatly extending life. Most others have band boots/”seals” that slip over the outside, much less effective at rejecting moisture, debris, easier to damage. Have seen them cut, knocked off by sticks, etc, killing the joint in short order.

A lot of other setups have the retaining clips on the outside, these are very susceptible to damage. When they rub on rock the clip land rings are known to break or clip(s) snagged out, then the cup(s) walk out, often destroying the yoke and joint. Most Toyota caps are retained inside, making for a stronger setup that can slide over rock with most times only cosmetic damage.

Toyota joints are well proven for long life, IMHO if properly maintained most times are lifetime parts. A buddy has a Taco with close to 300,000 mi, most of that time "maintained" by quick lube places, from what I can tell the shaft has never been out and runs as smooth as new. Not that one example means much, but it has been my experience that Toyota cv shafts go the distance and others have much higher failure rates. There have been several failures of “others” locally, most on rigs that are very well maintained and paid dearly for the shafts when new, from top name companies.

Toyota shafts fit. The others that I have experience with had bolt patterns that were close, then machined (egg shaped holes) to “fit”, this makes them even a bigger pain than most cv’s to mount. Getting them off in the case of a trail failure is a huge pain, been there,,, passed on the t-shirt.

The local driveline places that I use (both do a ton of rock crawler work) agree that Toyota joints are some of the best available and recommend running them. IMHO it’s worth the pain to find a good used shaft and have it shortened, but I value long term reliability over brute strength, for my uses the stock shafts have proven to be plenty strong and have the resources available locally to get it done. :hillbilly:
 
Would stock vehicles see a benafit with these shaft, or only lifted?
 
Sorry about the “hype” rant, but one of my customers just left, was here showing off his new Exploder. You probably know the type, foaming at the mouth blue oval fan, dad retired from them, have the 25yr gold watch in the hutch (doesn’t work), ~70 yrs old, the type that you can’t talk to, just listen.

Anyway he was going on about some copied papers that he had (magazine article maybe?) how they proved that Toyota reliability was pure hype and ford, rover and jaguar (he owns one of each) are much more reliable. I congratulated him for doing the killer research before a vehicle purchase and sent him on his way.:hillbilly::rolleyes:

:whoops: that was chat, back to my hole!:o:D
 
Would stock vehicles see a benafit with these shaft, or only lifted?

It's a combination of lift and caster correction that puts the pinion angle where a cv shaft is needed to reduce/eliminate vibration.
 

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