Builds eatSleepWoof's '14 LX

[grinchy]

Installed three new Rhino Rack Vortex (54") cross bars on another set of RCH6 feet. These will be used when I'm not using the tent (for kayaks, lumber, etc.), and will come off before tent re-install.

Also spent a few hours washing, polishing and waxing the exterior:

Was wondering if you were going to get another set of rails for everyday.

 

[eatSleepWoof]

Spent a few hours pressure washing the underside of the LX yesterday. Cleaned off an insane amount of dirt/dust built up on everything.

Happy to report that last year's rust remediation efforts were worthwhile. While there were still spots of surface rust here and there, all in all it was much, much better than last year, and very close to how the average, new Toyota looks on the floor of local dealers. I've touched up everything with the same rust converter product (in fact, I went a little bit overboard) and then applied a total of 6 (vs last year's 4) cans of FluidFilm. Last year I wasn't able to drop the spare, but this time I got in there real good; applied it on all exposed/visible metal, and sprayed a ton inside of all metal cavities/frame.

This was the end product. Photo taken after sunset, so lighting is poor.

 

[TLC2013]

Spent a few hours pressure washing the underside of the LX yesterday. Cleaned off an insane amount of dirt/dust built up on everything.

Happy to report that last year's rust remediation efforts were worthwhile. While there were still spots of surface rust here and there, all in all it was much, much better than last year, and very close to how the average, new Toyota looks on the floor of local dealers. I've touched up everything with the same rust converter product (in fact, I went a little bit overboard) and then applied a total of 6 (vs last year's 4) cans of FluidFilm. Last year I wasn't able to drop the spare, but this time I got in there real good; applied it on all exposed/visible metal, and sprayed a ton inside of all metal cavities/frame.

This was the end product. Photo taken after sunset, so lighting is poor.

Nice job, looks super clean. I have been considering this project to clean up the dirt and mud in order paint over some recent battle wounds. Did you use any specific cleaner/detergent with the pressure washer?

 

[HGB]

Could you post some more outdoor photos of your cross bar set up with the vehicle in full view from a couple different angles please?

How easy are those mounts to install into the factory holes? Did you have to deal with the bolts falling through the headliner?

How about wind noise/MPG impact?

 

[eatSleepWoof]

Nice job, looks super clean. I have been considering this project to clean up the dirt and mud in order paint over some recent battle wounds. Did you use any specific cleaner/detergent with the pressure washer?

It looks better in the photo than it really is, but I'm still quite happy with the condition.

I used a generic degreaser. My pressure washer is cheap and problematic, so it actually sucks iн cleaning solution roughly 30% of the time. The rest of the time it just sprays pure water, which was largely enough.

Could you post some more outdoor photos of your cross bar set up with the vehicle in full view from a couple different angles please?

How easy are those mounts to install into the factory holes? Did you have to deal with the bolts falling through the headliner?

How about wind noise/MPG impact?

There are some photos of the 59" bars in this post: Builds - eatSleepWoof's '14 LX

The ones currently on the vehicle are the 54" version:

I'm biased, but I really like the look. And I especially like being able to easily reach under anything that's mounted on the bars, due to there not being a side profile (like on the OEM rack and most 'overland' racks).

Very straightforward install. Between removing the original rack, replacing it with a LC200 rack, installing these bars, numerous on/off mounts for each of the aforementioned options, I had zero issues with hardware dropping into the headliner. Granted I was careful each time to unscrew undo only 4-5mm of each bolt at one time (before doing the same to the adjacent bolt) and only used hand tools. Once you remove the OEM hardware, you use the supplied hardware to bolt-in a vehicle-specific "base" in six OEM spots. The generic (as in, not vehicle specific) feet are then attached with a single M6 bolt to each base, and the actual cross bars are attached to the feet. It's all super simple, and the parts came with great instructions.

Without the rubber strips in the cross-bars channels there was a ton of noise. With those strips installed, the rack is virtually silent. I say 'virtually' as I'm very, very picky about noise, and there is a slight rush of air at higher speeds (above 130kph), but you really have to be tuning in (and music off) to be able to hear it. Zero MPG impact from what I can tell. I'm very happy with this setup.

 

[eatSleepWoof]

Last weekend, while on the road, I encountered a seized brake issue.

Over the last few days I've been trying to source new calipers all around, as well as new pads and rotors for the rear.

For anyone interested, these are the caliper part numbers (same part numbers for the LC200 and LX570):

• Front-left: 47750-60280
• Front-right: 47730-60280
• Rear-left: 47850-60070
• Rear-right: 47830-60080

The local Toyota dealer wanted $1900 CAD after tax. Local Lexus dealer was a tad cheaper. A Toyota dealership in WA has the same parts for the equivalent of $760 CAD (after WA state's 10% tax). The joy of buying anything in Canada...

I checked PartSouq Auto Parts Around the World, Genuine Japanese Car Part Imports - Amayama, Rock Auto, three or four Canadian dealers, and about a dozen US dealers. The cheapest deal was from toyotapartsdeal.com, coming in at $1060 CAD after shipping, taxes and duties. Better than $1900 CAD, but still far from cheap. Parts are supposed to be here by the 14th... we'll see.

Also ordered the same rear rotors and pads that I had ordered before.

In other news, I had my Trail Tailor front recovery hooks sandblasted and powdercoated (black) a few weeks ago. My previous rattle can job was surely not holding up.

 

[Littlehouse]

Your review on the aluminum kennel gave me the confidence to pull the trigger on one for my GX. So far so good. Thanks ESW!

 

[RET2]

View attachment 2515265
Your review on the aluminum kennel gave me the confidence to pull the trigger on one for my GX. So far so good. Thanks ESW!

Quality unit you won't regret the purchase.

 

[eatSleepWoof]

View attachment 2515265
Your review on the aluminum kennel gave me the confidence to pull the trigger on one for my GX. So far so good. Thanks ESW!

The TransK9 kennels are sweet. I'd have gotten one if they were more accessible/reasonably priced by the time they get here. Congrats on it!

 

[eatSleepWoof]

Had the fuel pump recall done last week, and some maintenance today:

- oil change
- replaced front calipers
- replaced rear calipers
- replaced rear rotors + pads
- 5-wheel rotation

 

[eatSleepWoof]

A week after getting the LX (some 2.5 years ago) I got a chip in the windshield. A week ago that chip finally turned into three cracks all the way across, so I started looking around for where to replace the windshield.

Called local shop 1:

They told me I need an “OEM Windshield Replacement Policy” through my insurance in order to get OE glass, and this cannot be had on vehicles older than 5 years. I’ve replaced windshields (always with OE glass!) 6-7 times on different vehicles before. I came, I paid the standard $200 deductible, I got OE glass, and I left. End of story every time. They also told me the aftermarket glass comes from the same factory as OE glass. “They make 5000 units of glass with the Lexus logo on it, then take off the sticker and make 25000 more.” Uh-huh.

Called an insurance agent. “We have never heard of an ‘OEM Windshield Replacement Policy’; you have comprehensive, including windshield replacements, and you’re good to go.”

Called local shop 2:

They told me they cannot get me OEM glass unless I have the “cost replacement policy,” and that it’s only available for vehicles that are 3 or 4 years old. Said the insurance company forces them to get the cheapest glass possible. I started asking about glass features, mentioning that my OE glass has a 2mm acoustic barrier. “Some of this aftermarket has the barrier, some does not.”

Called the dealer, got a referral to the glass shop they use.

Called the dealer recommended shop (an hour away):

“We can get you OE glass, straight from the dealer, and do it through your insurance with your normal $200 windshield glass deductible. When would you like to come in?”

---

Just came back from having the windshield replaced. As expected, $200 deductible, and Lexus-stamped glass on the LX. The guys got it done in a record-setting 1.5 hours. Happy, but frustrated that the local shops tried to screw me around so much.

---

In other news, while going through old receipts, I found this one for a cap I bought at the local mechanic:

I guess that explains why my hair started glowing in the dark...

 

[PDoyle]

At least you still have hair.

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

A week after getting the LX (some 2.5 years ago) I got a chip in the windshield. A week ago that chip finally turned into three cracks all the way across, so I started looking around for where to replace the windshield.

Called local shop 1:

They told me I need an “OEM Windshield Replacement Policy” through my insurance in order to get OE glass, and this cannot be had on vehicles older than 5 years. I’ve replaced windshields (always with OE glass!) 6-7 times on different vehicles before. I came, I paid the standard $200 deductible, I got OE glass, and I left. End of story every time. They also told me the aftermarket glass comes from the same factory as OE glass. “They make 5000 units of glass with the Lexus logo on it, then take off the sticker and make 25000 more.” Uh-huh.

Called an insurance agent. “We have never heard of an ‘OEM Windshield Replacement Policy’; you have comprehensive, including windshield replacements, and you’re good to go.”

Called local shop 2:

They told me they cannot get me OEM glass unless I have the “cost replacement policy,” and that it’s only available for vehicles that are 3 or 4 years old. Said the insurance company forces them to get the cheapest glass possible. I started asking about glass features, mentioning that my OE glass has a 2mm acoustic barrier. “Some of this aftermarket has the barrier, some does not.”

Called the dealer, got a referral to the glass shop they use.

Called the dealer recommended shop (an hour away):

“We can get you OE glass, straight from the dealer, and do it through your insurance with your normal $200 windshield glass deductible. When would you like to come in?”

---

Just came back from having the windshield replaced. As expected, $200 deductible, and Lexus-stamped glass on the LX. The guys got it done in a record-setting 1.5 hours. Happy, but frustrated that the local shops tried to screw me around so much.

---

In other news, while going through old receipts, I found this one for a cap I bought at the local mechanic:

I guess that explains why my hair started glowing in the dark...

What shop did you use for the glass? One in Kelowna?

 

[eatSleepWoof]

What shop did you use for the glass? One in Kelowna?

Yup, Kelowna Glass. Called Kelowna Lexus, they then called Kelowna glass to get the ball rolling, and Kelowna Glass called me to setup the appointment.

 

[highfructose]

Speaking of Scepter cans...

This pump arrived in the mail today. (Amazon.ca link)

Direct fit onto the Scepter. Just undo the original cap and slide this pump overtop. Press the button, get running water. Press the button again, it shuts off.

The 1800mAh battery is supposed to last for around 4-5 full 20L Scepters, and it is USB rechargeable. Onboard running water could not be simpler, cleaner, or cheaper than this.

Here is a very similar product on Amazon.com.

This is an old post, but was wondering: how’d you get the water pump to stay on the scepter? It keeps popping up and sliding off on mine.

 

[eatSleepWoof]

This is an old post, but was wondering: how’d you get the water pump to stay on the scepter? It keeps popping up and sliding off on mine.

Interesting you should ask that. Initially: absolutely nothing. It sat in there perfectly and did not slide out at all.

After a while I started experiencing the same issue you described, and have resorted to using a few zapstraps to keep the pump in place. I've no idea what changed, and my only guess is that temperature fluctuations somehow affected the material (size? friction coefficient?).

 

[highfructose]

Interesting you should ask that. Initially: absolutely nothing. It sat in there perfectly and did not slide out at all.

After a while I started experiencing the same issue you described, and have resorted to using a few zapstraps to keep the pump in place. I've no idea what changed, and my only guess is that temperature fluctuations somehow affected the material (size? friction coefficient?).

Well...thank you for the idea about the automatic waterer plus scepter Jerry can idea...this will be perfect for washing my hands while fishing, use at camp, etc.

however In the time between asking you for your solution to the slipping apparatus and your response, I came up with a solution you might be able to use.

The cap to a 2 liter screws onto the mini cap on the scepter. If you drill a 3/4” hole in the top of a 2 liter cap, then screw it down onto the scepter, you can then “press fit” the device into the can and it appears to hold it well.

the threads on the 2 liter aren’t PERFECT, but they work. I figure I’ll make a few of them and store them with the apparatus in the case I lose it.

 

[eatSleepWoof]

Well...thank you for the idea about the automatic waterer plus scepter Jerry can idea...this will be perfect for washing my hands while fishing, use at camp, etc.

however In the time between asking you for your solution to the slipping apparatus and your response, I came up with a solution you might be able to use.

The cap to a 2 liter screws onto the mini cap on the scepter. If you drill a 3/4” hole in the top of a 2 liter cap, then screw it down onto the scepter, you can then “press fit” the device into the can and it appears to hold it well.

the threads on the 2 liter aren’t PERFECT, but they work. I figure I’ll make a few of them and store them with the apparatus in the case I lose it.

View attachment 2581628

Interesting idea. Thanks for the tip!

Another option may be to use a dremel and ever so slightly sand off some material from the pump's base (the part that goes inside the Scepter).

 

[1world1love]

Speaking of Scepter cans...

This pump arrived in the mail today. (Amazon.ca link)

Direct fit onto the Scepter. Just undo the original cap and slide this pump overtop. Press the button, get running water. Press the button again, it shuts off.



The 1800mAh battery is supposed to last for around 4-5 full 20L Scepters, and it is USB rechargeable. Onboard running water could not be simpler, cleaner, or cheaper than this.

Here is a very similar product on Amazon.com.

Man, I ordered one of these a while back and finally used it on a trip this weekend. What a slick setup for <15 bucks. It works great.

 

[radman]

The hoist is from Princess Auto. Rated for 660lb single line, double that with double line & pulley. It is mounted to a plywood base (glued and screwed) that is mounted to studs w/ 5" structural bolts.

The pulleys are mounted to joists through those 2x6 boards. Rope is from Home Depot, rated for 260lbs.

Are you happy with the pulleys? Sources from Amazon?
I need to make something similar to lift/store the hard top off my old vette