Builds eatSleepWoof's '14 LX

[eatSleepWoof]

Are you happy with the pulleys? Sources from Amazon?
I need to make something similar to lift/store the hard top off my old vette

No complaints at this point. They worked fine for my needs. These are the pulleys I bought.

Do keep in mind I sold the AluCab setup about 1.5-2 months after buying it, and largely haven't needed to use the pulleys/hoist since then.

 

[PDoyle]

Would make a heck of a place for a hammock.

 

[eatSleepWoof]

Having sold our travel trailer recently, I figured I'd build some sides for my little utility trailer and put it to work; in a 5x8 foot footprint this thing can haul a lot of water and firewood, and that's what it'll primarily carry. It's also very light and should have no problems bouncing around behind the LX on forest service roads.

Going to put 3/4" plywood in between the e-tracks to effectively recess them, and will take off the casters (this is was a folding trailer), but otherwise this thing is ready to put in work. Needs an #overlandAF sticker, though.

May also add some swing-away cross bars on top of the sides. That would let me carry longer cargo (like kayaks) once in a while.

 

[wngrog]

The painted LC200 rack did start chipping from the car washes. I was going through them 3-4 times per week, and a few pieces of paint eventually flaked off. I'm done with those touch car washes - they were starting to scratch the paint, too. Very convenient, especially on a perpetually filthy black car, but not worth it.

I wasn't overly happy with the rack, nor did the 80/20-like crossbars work out for my needs, so a while back I placed an order for a Rhino Rack LC200 fit kit + six legs + 3 vortex cross bars. I originally ordered 53"-wide cross bars, but with a recent decision to purchase an AluCab RTT, I needed wider bars, so I switched them out for the 59" width. Mounted everything last night:

The shorter bars would have looked better, but these will be more practical. There is a t-channel on both the top and (parts of) the bottom for easy mounting of accessories. It is wider than an M8 bolt, but the FrontRunner "track nuts" (which accept an M8 bolt) fit very well. Very happy with the fit and finish of all parts - well made kit, with good instructions.

I bought and sold a FrontRunner at a great loss because of wind noise. What plastic strips are you talking about that you added to kill the noise? I can’t tell in the photos.

Also, do the feet mount into the stock roof rack holes or are you adding rivnuts?

 

[eatSleepWoof]

I bought and sold a FrontRunner at a great loss because of wind noise. What plastic strips are you talking about that you added to kill the noise? I can’t tell in the photos.

Also, do the feet mount into the stock roof rack holes or are you adding rivnuts?

Feet mounted directly into stock holes. Perfect fit.

The strips were/are specific to Rhino Rack - some come with all vortex bars, but you can order more. I can't recall whether I had to order any extras - I think I had enough. They basically slide into the open channels of the bars, and eliminate the whistling noise you'd otherwise have.

This is the strip: #M626 - Vortex Generating Strip | - https://www.rhinorack.com/en-us/products/spares-brackets-components/spare-parts/bar-rubber/vortex-generating-strip_m626

A full FrontRunner rack will be noisier - you've got to have a full fairing for a rack like that.

 

[wngrog]

Feet mounted directly into stock holes. Perfect fit.

The strips were/are specific to Rhino Rack - some come with all vortex bars, but you can order more. I can't recall whether I had to order any extras - I think I had enough. They basically slide into the open channels of the bars, and eliminate the whistling noise you'd otherwise have.

This is the strip: #M626 - Vortex Generating Strip | - https://www.rhinorack.com/en-us/products/spares-brackets-components/spare-parts/bar-rubber/vortex-generating-strip_m626

A full FrontRunner rack will be noisier - you've got to have a full fairing for a rack like that.

Thanks. I like

 

[eatSleepWoof]

The pup recently turned 9 and is showing signs of difficulty sitting still for extended periods of time. Yesterday she jumped into the truck just fine, but 2hrs later couldn’t use one of the hind legs, and is still limping. Long and short is that the crate, while awesome, is no longer an option. The dog needs more room and more comfort.

And so, the crate and narrow drawer I had setup came out this morning, and the original drawers went back in. The entire space on top of them will now be dedicated to the dog.

I do need to get some new L track for the rear, as I used up the original on other projects.

The extra space is nice, that’s for sure.

 

[Tex68w]

Early Teal season opening weekend was a barrel burner here in south Texas. We had a 17 man limit (102 birds) Saturday and a six man limit (36) this morning. We never got any large groups or volleys, it was hammering away at singles and doubles for the most part but it made for non- stop action. We were graced with the invite to a sponsored hunt hosted by Migra Ammunition and Dive Bomb Industries Decoys Saturday, the professional film crew and multiple dogs working the spread at the same time was quite the production and the free gucci shells were more than appreciated. Unfortunately I won't be around to hunt anymore during this short early season so it was all or nothing this weekend and 138 Teal will more than carry me over to big duck season in November. Now to make some Teal fried rice.

 

[Littlehouse]

The pup recently turned 9 and is showing signs of difficulty sitting still for extended periods of time. Yesterday she jumped into the truck just fine, but 2hrs later couldn’t use one of the hind legs, and is still limping. Long and short is that the crate, while awesome, is no longer an option. The dog needs more room and more comfort.

And so, the crate and narrow drawer I had setup came out this morning, and the original drawers went back in. The entire space on top of them will now dedicated to the dog.

I do need to get some new L track for the rear, as I used up the original on other projects.

The extra space is nice, that’s for sure.


View attachment 2784842

Mine turns 9 in Nov and I’m thinking about a ramp or something. Do you just pick your pup up for now?

 

[eatSleepWoof]

Mine turns 9 in Nov and I’m thinking about a ramp or something. Do you just pick your pup up for now?

Already using a ramp. Pain in the butt, but necessary.

 

[eatSleepWoof]

Did some minor winter prep recently: installed Bosch ICON Wiper Blades 24A22A and did an annual application of fluid film on the frame.

Also picked up some 20" OEM Tundra wheels for my winter tires - being mounted tomorrow.

Ended up moving the dog to the back seats - much more cushion/comfort there than in the cargo area w/ a dog bed. Unfortunately neither of the dog ramps I have works for the back seats, so I came up with a custom solution.

In the door area there is a plastic piece of trim at the very bottom. It is held in place by one screw, hidden under a small black panel. I removed that panel and the plastic bit that the screw normally installs into, and installed a M6 rivnut in its place. I then drilled a second hole, and installed another M6 rivnut:

Then I made this piece and bolted it down to the rivnuts:

Using angle iron, I have something to "grab" on to, which works like this:

Which is used for a large-area "step" like so:

Of course, being free-standing won't work, so I made a folding leg/support:

The leg locks in the folded-out position. By itself the platform isn't rock solid, but if I stand next to it and push on it with my leg, it becomes so.

The platform clips on/off in seconds, and stores between the first row seat and the dog hammock on the 2nd row. It provides a nice, large surface for the dog to jump on to before climbing in through the somewhat narrow door opening, on to the higher seat. It is still a fairy high jump (about 27" from the ground), but much better than jumping on to (or off) the seat itself. I may think about making another step half-way up to this platform.

 

[tacoduck]

You still liking your falken’s? How many miles on em?

 

[eatSleepWoof]

You still liking your falken’s? How many miles on em?

Yup, good tires for the three seasons, or snow-covered trails. For snow hardpack and winter highways I'll be running my Blizzacks again.

Not sure of the mileage tbh. Probably around 20-30k km, but I'm guessing.

// edit - Found the tire install receipt... that was 30k km ago.

 

[eatSleepWoof]

Winter tires are on. These are my old 285/50/20 Blizzacks on OEM Tundra 20” wheels with Lexus centrecap logos.

Drove around ~20 mins in the city and on the highway and instantly noticed:

1. Improved acceleration.
2. Steering is lighter, more precise.
3. Ride comfort improved.
4. Seemingly a bit quieter.

Interestingly I didn’t notice the opposite changes when I originally had my Falkens installed.

The Blizzacks weigh 43.7lbs. The Falkens (275/60/20, P-metric) weigh 47.8lbs.

Can’t find the weights for either wheel .

 

[tacoduck]

Those wheels look darn good for tundra talke offs.

Winter tires are on. These are my old 285/50/20 Blizzacks on OEM Tundra 20” wheels with Lexus centrecap logos.

Drove around ~20 mins in the city and on the highway and instantly noticed:

1. Improved acceleration.
2. Steering is lighter, more precise.
3. Ride comfort improved.
4. Seemingly a bit quieter.

Interestingly I didn’t notice the opposite changes when I originally had my Falkens installed.

The Blizzacks weigh 43.7lbs. The Falkens (275/60/20, P-metric) weigh 47.8lbs.

Can’t find the weights for either wheel

 

[eatSleepWoof]

Those wheels look darn good for tundra talke offs.

I'm pleasantly surprised myself. They look better than I expected.

 

[bigezvol]

Thanks. I like

Nolan, I use that rail setup on my wife's Gx460. Just bought a 2013 LX570 from someone you know (Ron Perkins). Already ordered the rhino rack vortex setup for it.

 

[eatSleepWoof]

I got tired of having to kneel and get under the rear bumper to connect trailer wiring, so I decided to create a wiring extension that would be mounted in the bumper cover, and would connect into the OEM plug.

I ordered these parts off Amazon:

1. Hopkins 40974 Multi-Tow 7 Blade and 4 Flat Connector; this is identical to OEM plugs on the Tacoma, Tundra, etc. Seems to be very low profile.
2. Hopkins 40985 Universal Multi-Tow Harness Connector; this plugs into the above connector and has 7 wires that need to be connected to the vehicle.
3. Reese Towpower 74127 Plastic 7-Way Flat Blade Trailer End Connector; I'll connect the wires from item 2 to this male connector and plug it into the OEM hitch wiring.

And here is how it went!

The wiring loom that arrived wasn't the greatest (just oversized split loom over wires) so I cleaned it up a bit:

I made the necessary connections and covered the parts that would be assembled in silicone to add a bit more water resistance:

Assembled and added a bit more silicone on the exterior:

Cut a mounting template from cardboard, attached it on the bumper cover where I wanted the connectors to go. I initially wanted to place these on the driver's side, but decided that with the exhaust terminating in more or less the exact spot I wanted the connector, there was a risk of melting wires from exhaust heat, and I'd use the passenger side instead.

Two of these metal clips are what holds the connector in place. The bumper cover is very thick (around 3-4mm), so getting these to clip in was a nightmare. I had to slightly bend them to give myself a bit more "material room," and then installed them from the back after sliding the connector through the cut-out hole.

I took the OEM connector off the bracket it was mounted on, clipped in my extension, and zap-strapped both pieces.

I then tucked away all wiring (including the joined connectors) behind the bumper cover, secured things with a few more zap straps, and flipped the original connector mounting bracket around to get it out of the way. There is about 5mm of clearance between the flipped bracket and my 33" spare tire.

This is the end result:

I tested everything several times throughout the process and at the very end. Working great! Perhaps not the most aesthetically pleasant spot for the connectors, but it sure does make things a lot more convenient. No more having to use 7-pin to 4-pin adapters, and no more climbing under the bumper.

 

[brasskey]

I got tired of having to kneel and get under the rear bumper to connect trailer wiring, so I decided to create a wiring extension that would be mounted in the bumper cover, and would connect into the OEM plug.

I ordered these parts off Amazon:

1. Hopkins 40974 Multi-Tow 7 Blade and 4 Flat Connector; this is identical to OEM plugs on the Tacoma, Tundra, etc. Seems to be very low profile.
2. Hopkins 40985 Universal Multi-Tow Harness Connector; this plugs into the above connector and has 7 wires that need to be connected to the vehicle.
3. Reese Towpower 74127 Plastic 7-Way Flat Blade Trailer End Connector; I'll connect the wires from item 2 to this male connector and plug it into the OEM hitch wiring.

And here is how it went!

The wiring room that arrived wasn't the greatest (just oversized split loom over wires) so I cleaned it up a bit:

I made the necessary connections and covered the parts that would be assembled in silicone to add a bit more water resistance:

Assembled and added a bit more silicone on the exterior:

Cut a mounting template from cardboard, attached it on the bumper cover where I wanted the connectors to go. I initially wanted to place these on the driver's side, but decided that with the exhaust terminating in more or less the exact spot I wanted the connector, there was a risk of melting wires from exhaust heat, and I'd use the passenger side instead.

Two of these metal clips are what holds the connector in place. The bumper cover is very thick (around 3-4mm), so getting these to clip in was a nightmare. I had to slightly bend them to give myself a bit more "material room," and then installed them from the back after sliding the connector through the cut-out hole.

I took the OEM connector off the bracket it was mounted on, clipped in my extension, and zap-strapped both pieces.

I then tucked away all wiring (including the joined connectors) behind the bumper cover, secured things with a few more zap straps, and flipped the original connector mounting bracket around to get it out of the way. There is about 5mm of clearance between the flipped bracket and my 33" spare tire.

This is the end result:

I tested everything several times throughout the process and at the very end. Working great! Perhaps not the most aesthetically pleasant spot for the connectors, but it sure does make things a lot more convenient. No more having to use 7-pin to 4-pin adapters, and no more climbing under the bumper.

Nicely done!

 

[linuxgod]

Very nice result

How well do you think it'll hold up in the bumper? Any concerns about it coming loose, or cracking the bumper skin? That was always my concern which is what had stopped me from doing it, but then once I tried to cut the bumper skin to fit the new steel bumper I realized how thick it was