Early 2 barrel big window F carburetor (2 Viewers)

[FJ40Jim]

Yes, there are pics of FA and FB in that thread.

 

[JohnnyC]

fa/fj manual from 1966 has this carb in it...and it does say its for an FA and the 1bbl for the FJ

i got this from someplace thats in pdf...i could post up what every you need about this carb

 

[FJ40Jim]

Update w/ some pics.

A couple of assembled pics, as a guide to re-assembly.

The diecast main body & air horn are in very good shape, especially for a 46 year old piec of metal.

The throttles were really stuck w/ rust, like the carb had sat on a wet surface for years. After the butterflies were removed, the throttle shafts were pressed out of the rusty T-body. Then the throttle bores had to be scraped clean of barnacles and polished.

 

[FJ40Jim]

The throttle shaft bores had to have the rust cleaned out with a steel brush in a drill. The shafts were fine, because they are chrome plated brass, unlike later models that are tool steel or chromed steel or teflon coated steel.

The inside also had some water damage and dirt, but nothing out of the ordinary. The first pic shows how well the die cast parts cleaned up.

When I was beating the carb apart, my dog had to hide under the couch, because I was making up a new language that scared him.

 

[67azcruizr]

glad to hear it's looking promising so far

 

[FJ40Jim]

So, where were we?

Throttle body reassembled w/ vac advance fitting installed: check.

Next, assemble the main body, starting with the secondary air valve. The air valve is located at the top of the T-body in the 38/38 carb, but on this 40/40 carb it is located at the bottom of the main body. This shaft was made of a brittle steel that was very happy to corrode permanently into the main body. Normally after removing the butterfly and the arm, the seized shaft would just press out. But this one came out in 3 pieces.

And some hillbilly (do they have those in Japan?) thought it would be good to attack the air valve counterweight w/ a dull sawzall and make it lighter for faster response.

So to make this work again, a shaft needs fabbed and the counterweight needs replaced.

A 38/38 carb is liberated of it's throttle shaft and counterweight. It's the right diameter, and almost the right length for what I've in mind. The counterweight is drilled and tapped to accept a M4 countersunk screw. The arm is opened w/ the countersink bit so the screw goes about flush. The shaft is assembled into the body and the hybrid arm is set in place on the end of the arm. Since the new shaft isn't long enough to be threaded for the old retainer nut, it is tack welded. Grind the weld down; not a bad facsimile of the factory peened over shaft end on later carbs. assemble one last time w/ grease on shaft, loctite on screws, thrust washers swiped from 38/38, and it is better than new.

First pic shows all air valve parts, 40/40 on the left, 38/38 on right.

Second pic is finished air valve arm & shaft.

Last pic is hand chopped gaskets. There is no gasket kit in North America for this carb. New gasket is intentionally much thicker than OE design. The thin OE gasket is very distorted and OOP because of it's total lack of strength.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Now that all the parts are cleaned & repaired, and new gaskets are made, time to throw it together.

Pic 1: Bolt the main body on top of the T-body. Toss in the boosters and AP nozzle.

Pic 2: Sean sent a couple of SD40 parts carbs. One of them had this very nice Aisan plate. The window and frame are original to the 40/40. A new window gasket was pilfered from a 1bbl kit.

Pic 3: All the parts are in; 2nd mainjet, AP, Pri mainjet, PV, spare main...

 

[FJ40Jim]

The End!

One more problem to overcome. The float is a tad water damaged. Fortunately, this crappy aftermarket 2F float actually is a good replacement. The hanger end is not a good fit on a 2F, but the tall tab and thicker metal closely mimics the early float. And people say I keep junk I'll never use.

OK, got a float, needle & seat (same as 1bbl), new air horn gasket, straightened body & air horn. Time to bolt the air horn on & hook up linkage. Done!

And here it is purring away on a 1987 2F.

 

[Toy25ht]

Hi Jim
Thanks for all the pictures on the rebuild of the large window 2- barrel carb,looks great,nice job.I was wanting to know if you had any ideas on the large window carb I ask Destin to put pictures up for me on the 1961 FJ 25 hardtop page,I checked with sor they said not landcruiser carb maybe early car carb. I was thinking FA not FJ carb.


Thanks Toy25ht Bill

 

[FJ40Jim]

Hey Bill,
Commented in your thread. The big carb pictured here is for FA & FB trucks. Your small vac secondary carb is probably from a 1968 MarkII.

 

[subzali]

Jim, what kind of jet settings did you use for this carb? Same as came with it?

 

[FJ40Jim]

The stock main jets were spot on.
The idle jet had to be stepped up several sizes.

 

[67azcruizr]

"MAGIC"..............very cool Jim. Thank you very much for taking the time to put this carburetor back in working order. It will be a perfect fit for my modernized '62 FST.


I should have sent you my dizzy?

 

[owensexport]

My 1965 FA Firetruck had a 2 bbl carb and a siamese port
manifold.
You need the extra power to lug around the 13,000 lbs chassis weight!

I will see if I have any photos of the carb on the engine.

 

[owensexport]

You can see a piece of it here...
I know I have shots of the other side, they will probably need
to be scanned:

 

[owensexport]

 

[FJ40Jim]

Got any closer-upper pics from the LH side?

It looks like the DD40/40 carb is sitting on top of a spacer/throttle body? The linkage rod running from the front of the engine bay is visible....

 

[FJ40Jim]

I should have sent you my dizzy?

No, any vac advance points dissy is gonna be fine. The only dissy that could use a recurve is the 81-87 USA 2F, when run in a non-smog application.

 

[JohnnyC]

da carb kit:
http://www.siriusconinc.com/pro_detail-toyota_fa80_fa90_fa95_truck_carb_kit_1961_1969-34-115.htm

 

[FJ40Jim]

Yes! That's the kit. I can read the carb application on the package: 21100-60061