E-locker limit switch, where I answer my questions moments after asking them thread (1 Viewer)

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

If I wanted to control an E-locker with a single double pole double throw switch, would the limit switch in the locker motor stop the motor once it was locked or unlocked? Or does the stock control box get the signal from the limit switch and then cut the power or ground to the motor?

I'd like to do something like this home made diagram, but with a DPDT switch instead of the 2 relays. But I'm afraid that their lock/unlock switch is a momentary type. (On second look it's not, the limit switch cuts the ground to the relays, so they shut off...)

I'm sure I could figure out how to get around the problem, but if anyone else has had any experience with this, I'm all ears!

Edit: On further examination of this wiring diagram it looks like the limit switch only gives a signal back to the control box, it doesn't actually limit the motor internally... Nothing to see here... carry on!

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Ok.... So I modified the above diagram to suite my needs. Anyone see a problem with this set up?

 

[corax]

that should work just fine, get rid of the resistor on the green wire to the motor. Out of curiosity, why don't you want to use relays? They reduce the current going through the limit switch in the elocker motor

I used the first diagram you posted - very easy to wire, I acutally made 2 boxes (1 with regular Bosch relays, 1 with circuit board relays)

 

[KLF]

Take the resistor out. Don't need it.

We had a long thread awhile ago about relays vs without. No clear conclusion, but it's worth searching for.

 

[cruiser88]

I have a few Mazda CDF switches

 

[Hilux]

2ndGen (or anyone searching)... It's up to you, but the momentary on-off sounds like a double safety to me...

What if the limit switch takes a poo? You'll have a back-up in the spring back on the momentary...

 

[Mike C]

I am using a on-off-on switch, no relays. My power wire is run direct to the battery, so when I am not using it I leave it in the neutral position.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

I don't want to use relays because I want to get an antique knife switch to run it... IE:

But older and crustier....

I see what you're saying about the double safety, maybe I'll wire it up so there is a locking and unlocking light like the top diagram, that way I'll know if the limit switch has gone bad.

 

[Hilux]

lol, why do I have a vision of Gene Wilder throwing the switch in Young Frankenstein (pronounced: Fronk-En-Sh-Teen) all of a sudden?


Don't use that switch, 2ndGen... You'll be screaming, "LIFE! DO YOU HEAR ME!!! GIVE MY CREATION LLLLIIIIIIIIIIFFFFFFEEEE!!!"

every time you use it...

 

[YotaJosh]

I think this diagram does what you want. This is how the 12VoltGuy harness, and Inchworm harness work.

I'm wiring mine this way.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Thanks Josh, that's pretty much how I modified my diagram, which is comforting...

So what's the up/down side to adding the inline resistor?

 

[KLF]

Years ago when we started messing with these e-lockers, someone came up with the idea that putting a high wattage resistor in the supply would somehow "protect" the motor from overheating if the cog didn't line up, thinking that the motor will be kept energized and it might burn up. Actually, properly wired, this is not the case. The actuator has a pair of watch-style coil springs in it, that '"spool up" the torque from the motor when it tried to spin the little pinion gear. The limit switch part of the actuator travels full-stroke and shuts the motor off. Once the cogs line up inside the diff, the coil spring unloads and snaps the cog home, either engaging or disengaging the locker.

I know of one person that put the resistor in, and it got really hot, almost burned up his rig.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I know of one person that put the resistor in, and it got really hot, almost burned up his rig.

Glad your rig is OK!



I kid.

 

[KLF]

hehehe... nope wasn't me. It was my buddy Mike Fox (foxfab).

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Years ago when we started messing with these e-lockers, someone came up with the idea that putting a high wattage resistor in the supply would somehow "protect" the motor from overheating if the cog didn't line up, thinking that the motor will be kept energized and it might burn up. Actually, properly wired, this is not the case. The actuator has a pair of watch-style coil springs in it, that '"spool up" the torque from the motor when it tried to spin the little pinion gear. The limit switch part of the actuator travels full-stroke and shuts the motor off. Once the cogs line up inside the diff, the coil spring unloads and snaps the cog home, either engaging or disengaging the locker.

That's cool!

 

[raydouble]

Here is another no relay diagram.......
http://www.norcalttora.com/~dick/Writeup Stuff/toyota_elock_control.pdf

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Very cool link! thanks!

 

[KLF]

Holy crap that guy did a nice job on that diagram.

 

[GRM]

The momentary on double pole, double throw switch works fine. The motor draws around 1.2 amps, with a peak of 3 amps. No need for a relay with that small amount of draw.