E-locker and V6 diff, differences?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Yes. But the elocker is a 30 spline pinion, and the v6 diff is a 28. Also, the bearing next to the elocker motor is different.

Swap the pinion flange with one off an older diff, and only replace 3 of the 4 bearings, and it will work perfect.

Check out Toyota Gear Installs for more info.
 
GRM said:
But the elocker is a 30 spline pinion, and the v6 diff is a 28.
Click to expand...

Huh. That's odd... I've regeared many TRD e-lockers, have always just bought V6 gear sets, and never had a spline issue.

Ya, that big bearing on the locking cog side is an odd one, I think the only place you can get it is from Toyota. Be VERY careful with the big adjuster on that side, they are impossible to replace if you muck up the threads.
 
KLF said:
Huh. That's odd... I've regeared many TRD e-lockers, have always just bought V6 gear sets, and never had a spline issue.

Ya, that big bearing on the locking cog side is an odd one, I think the only place you can get it is from Toyota. Be VERY careful with the big adjuster on that side, they are impossible to replace if you muck up the threads.
Click to expand...

I want to say its Randy's that carries it too. Around $65 for the bearing.
 
The Ring & Pinions are the same, the bearing kits are the same with the exception of the carrier bearing on the actuator side. The Pinion spline is the same (27 spline) until about 2000 and newer, which are 29 spline. The 29 spline is not isolated to the elocker diffs, but actually any 8" diff 00+. So anything 00+ will require the flange when installing aftermarket gears. We stock ALL of these items.


GRM said:
Yes. But the elocker is a 30 spline pinion, and the v6 diff is a 28. Also, the bearing next to the elocker motor is different.

Swap the pinion flange with one off an older diff, and only replace 3 of the 4 bearings, and it will work perfect.

Check out Toyota Gear Installs for more info.
Click to expand...
 
GRM said:
I would think it would be FAR cheaper to throw a 4.30 front diff in your truck
Click to expand...

The bottom line is I will need a new front diff, weather 4.30 or 4.56, so that's a wash more or less... I got a pretty decent deal on my locker (I think...) so I really don't want to get rid of it.... but if I can find a good 4.56 diff to steal the gears out of for cheapish..... and that same truck will have the front diff I'll need.....

Thanks for the info! :cheers: Now I just have to make up my mind...... Hehe
 
Good to know its 29 spline not 30. I counted it, and sure enough, your right!

I am running a pair of FJ Cruiser diffs, so it makes sense that I have the 29 spline pinions.

My only wonder I have, is how much heat is being put out. I have never run a new diff before, so this is a first for me. After 5 miles of driving, the entire diff (right on down to the pinion) is really hot. I have a hard time holding my hand on it. When comparing to a '98 4runner, the diff is still cold after the same drive.

Also, with 5.29's and 31's, the truck is SLOWER below 60 mph than with 4.10's.

I'm assuming, the heat is being caused by the break in, and it being slow, is because this diff is still very tight, and when it breaks in, it will be the same as before.
 
New gears will run pretty hot, I think I measured about 150-160deg at the rear of the axle housing with my IR thermometer after about 10 miles on my new gears. Let it cool, run about another 10 miles, cycle again, the start taking longer trips.

But I don't remember having them feel "tight"...
 
the tight feeling is when the diff is on the bench.

The pinion is easier to turn on the old diff than the new one. Im thinking it could also be because of the solid spacer, more pre load on the bearings, or ?????
 
Next question..... I think I found a truck with the diffs I want in it, it has a blown motor, and the guy is parting it out... But if I take the rear diff out, and just bolt the axles back in from the ends, how immobile will that make the truck? Motor's blown, so it's not driving anywhere... (especially without diffs...) but could he drag it around (up onto a tow truck) if he needed? Thanks guys! :D
 
Well, you can move the truck around, but it's ugly.

The rear axle is semi-floating, which means it's supported at the diff and the wheel instead of with a pair of wheel bearings. Pull the diff, the axle's unsupported on the inside.
 
I guess it depends on what you mean by "drag" and what is acceptable. It will not move freely, and it'll make a lot of nasty noise as the ends of the shaft clank around in the housing. But, it he's just having it dragged up onto a flatbed to have it scrapped, it's no big deal.

We dragged a truck up on a flatbed once with NO axles on it.
 
New gears will run hot at first. Also, if you have 5.29 w/ 31s your pinion is spinning much faster than ever before. I would break them in, and then see how they do temp wise. Too much pinion preload can cause this too, and will lead to failed pinion bearings if this is the case.


GRM said:
Good to know its 29 spline not 30. I counted it, and sure enough, your right!

I am running a pair of FJ Cruiser diffs, so it makes sense that I have the 29 spline pinions.

My only wonder I have, is how much heat is being put out. I have never run a new diff before, so this is a first for me. After 5 miles of driving, the entire diff (right on down to the pinion) is really hot. I have a hard time holding my hand on it. When comparing to a '98 4runner, the diff is still cold after the same drive.

Also, with 5.29's and 31's, the truck is SLOWER below 60 mph than with 4.10's.

I'm assuming, the heat is being caused by the break in, and it being slow, is because this diff is still very tight, and when it breaks in, it will be the same as before.
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom