DYI - Dashman DASHBOX Install (1 Viewer)

[cuencanolenny]

Today I fabricated two angles for mounting at the windshield knobs. I don't have the padded dash and supporting structure shown in the initial photos on this forum so I'm not sure if the dash is thicker or just what is the approach used. My dash isn't thick enough to support a 3mm screw, which I would think is too small. So I'm attaching at the ends and will add a fastener about the middle as a bolt/nut affair. You will see in the first picture that the forming and welding Carlos did wasn't very close and when cleaned up broke out. Also you can see the extensive amount of weld that has burned through. When you look at the pictures of the Dashman box you can't help but notice there is very little burn through, might even be tack welds. To me this is an indication of someone who is very careful about the amperage used. I know that in Seattle I used a few welders before finding Rich Miller Welding. When he was done with my stuff it took very little, if any, time to clean them up. So I test fitted the unit today. Tomorrow I will go back to Carlos and have him effect a repair to the break out area and also weld the hinges on and then weld at the hinge screw holes. Hey, one bright spot was the Z shape I bent into the latch worked first time! When I drove down to pick up Ana Maria at the bus stop I noticed a small amount of rattle at the lid. I think a couple or three felt pads will be in order there after powder coat.

 

[cuencanolenny]

My $4.75 box lining. Patterns cut and fitted. Will install with 3M Super77 after powder coat. The lining allows the lid to close and will provide all the anti-rattle isolation necessary.

 

[cuencanolenny]

When I did the test fit last week I noticed that when the wife was operating the lid it is heavy enough to fall rapidly closed. This has the potential to pinch a finger and that never feels good. So tonight I fabricated and installed this friction lid support. Works great. Might do something to eliminate the washers on the inside but it works.

 

[handcannon]

To hand make something like this takes time and skill. That looks very good.

Don

 

[cuencanolenny]

Thanks Don, I am pretty stoked today. It is my weekly laundry/grocery run day and I had the box mounted to the dash for final fit check and wanted to get an estimate on powder coating. I was pleasantly surprised that the box and the eleven small pieces will cost me $38 for Matte Black Light Texture. I told them the price was unacceptable and that I would pay them $50, just do a good job. I reviewed with him the fact that some surfaces are not flat due to the grinding of the weld, he said no problem. I was pretty sure, but wanted to address it anyway. With paint a person would have to fill and sand these low areas with Bondo as the paint would clearly show them. So I picked up new fasteners for $.50 and am ready to go. I can pick up the box tomorrow at 4:30 so it should be a good weekend project to install the carpet liner and assemble and install. Pictures to follow!

 

[cuencanolenny]

Installed! The powder coating was $38 and true to my word I gave them $50. They could have waved that spray gun across the top once more. Oh well. This morning I glued in the lining and then cut holes for the lock and for a 5/16" carriage bolt I found in the bucket. I have very few "American" fasteners on the rig. So the shear on a 5/16" carriage bolt should be at least 40,000 psi and therefore supports the bulk of the weight. I know that after I installed it and then removed an end fastener to install the windshield brackets that while it pulled away from the dash a little it didn't drop and was easy to re-install the attach fastener. I made a shim of the parent material so that I could attach directly to the dash and put the windshield brackets over the top of my stuff for a cleaner appearance. Not sure if those brackets would be used if I ever take the body off for painting. So my total cost, including a can of 3M Super77 spray adhesive is just under $160. I probably have a good eighty hours invested so I stick with observation that in the USA the $297 price is fair.

 

[cuencanolenny]

Installed! The powder coating was $38 and true to my word I gave them $50. They could have waved that spray gun across the top once more. Oh well. This morning I glued in the lining and then cut holes for the lock and for a 5/16" carriage bolt I found in the bucket. I have very few "American" fasteners on the rig. So the shear on a 5/16" carriage bolt should be at least 40,000 psi and therefore supports the bulk of the weight. I know that after I installed it and then removed an end fastener to install the windshield brackets that while it pulled away from the dash a little it didn't drop and was easy to re-install the attach fastener. I made a shim of the parent material so that I could attach directly to the dash and put the windshield brackets over the top of my stuff for a cleaner appearance. Not sure if those brackets would be used if I ever take the body off for painting. So my total cost, including a can of 3M Super77 spray adhesive is just under $160. I probably have a good eighty hours invested so I stick with observation that in the USA the $297 price is fair.

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I think it looks much better in the '79 now.

 

[mmw68]

What floor mat is in your red 79? Looks custom.

 

[cuencanolenny]

Yes, custom, I fabricated it myself. The fellow who does my seats down here said his machine wouldn't sew the double thickness of the heavier material. It took two sets of patterns to get it in the red one. I think if a fellow had a floor pan and a good heat gun he could get it to "seat" better. All flooring is installed on Velcro so that it can be removed readily. My old blue cruiser had carpet glued to the floor. What a mess, and a water trap as well.

 

[mmw68]

It looks great ! - is it heavy vinyl?

 

[cuencanolenny]

Yes, it is about 3mm/1/8" thick. The roll was 60" wide and I used 5 meters to do the job which left me enough to cover the speaker boxes but not enough for floor mats. Down here it cost me $12 per meter. I used a rag wool type of fabric for padding. Double under the center section in the rear. I use 3M Super 77 for gluing the pad to the vinyl under the center section. It just lays in place under the vinyl everywhere else. On that center section I fold 1" over, contact cement in place under a clamped board for thirty minutes and then I stitch. I put a piece of masking tape about a 1/4" from the edge and then use a scale and pencil to mark 1/2" spacing. I use a scribe or scratch awl to poke the hole and then a heavy needle with nylon thread to lace. The stitching adds a "clamp" to the glue as well as aesthetics. A guy could do all sorts of stuff with the stitching. Let me see if I have some pictures. Paper patterns will get you started. Since the paper lays differently from the vinyl you have to cut a bit oversize and then allow for your overlap. Once glued and stitched you can go to the back side and trim as required. Measure twice, cut once, as usual. I use a soft wood board behind the material for poking the holes. Pre-punching makes the job go much easier. I find that measuring the thread to the length of the stitch, double that and then double again since I am knotting the two pieces and then pulling double thread through works okay. The spool I buy is huge and it is much better to have too much than not enough. The biggest headache is that as the thread pulls through the glue it gets sticky and you must be careful when pulling it through that it doesn't knot up on itself. A small artist paint brush handle filed/sanded down to a paddle works good for using on the opposite side of the needle to keep the thread pulled taught so that it doesn't knot. Yes, it takes a lot of time to do this.

 

[cuencanolenny]

I take a lot of measurements for the fender wells. I lay that out in pencil on the back side of the material. I have an old Alvin cutting mat that I use with an X-Acto knife for cutting. Regular, sharp, scissors and I also have another pair of Lexan scissors left over from my R/C car days, they have a slight curved end and are really good for close quarter and trimming work. Velcro is hook on the metal, loop on the fabric. Installed first on the metal and then a magic marker on the back side of the vinyl. Contact cement is double applied. Once pressed in place, wait awhile for cure before installation as removal can have a tendency to pull the velcro from the metal. The bed mat is cut two inches oversize since you will be rolling 1" per side. Around the E-brake lever I cut 1/2" larger than the dimensions for the cutout and then for the fold under edge I just slit it down the middle, a similar amount at the ends and then 45* into the corners. Glued and stitched it is holding up well. I think if a person just made a cutout and even if wrap stitching around that opening, it would lay funny and look buckled. Ask me how I know.

 

[cuencanolenny]

I like the looks of the item that CCOT offers from Australia, especially since it is molded to shape. However, it doesn't cover as much as I did. Mine is stitched at the outside edge of the floor and goes up and around the kick panels as well. Where the mold and heat would help is the transmission tunnel. Hope this all helps you decide to do it!

I had some material left over and made a new console as well as a sun visor mounted document holder. Too much time on my hands (Styx). Can't believe I don't have a picture of the speakers. They look much better in vinyl than rattle can black which chips, scratches, etc.

 

[mmw68]

Yes, it is about 3mm/1/8" thick.

I should be careful when I ask you a question - Thanks for the reply...... and the details!!!