I was told the 5x150 pattern requires a step larger diameter in aluminum round stock (8"?) and the cost difference is very significant. At one time, supply and demand could have contributed but with the 2007+ Tundra now sharing the same bolt pattern, this should not be the case. The prices nowadays varies quite widely. You'll see dirt cheap ones on eBay but obviously you'll have a much better chance of getting quality spacers by buying from a reputable vendor.... or getting them custom made.
I thought about that until I saw what was actually rubbing. Its not the UCA, but the top part of the steering knuckle just below the ball joint. It sticks out a little farther than the edge of the UCA and contacts the tire. I will try to take better pictures later today with a tire pulled off.
Have you tried messing with the amt of tbar crank you have? Wouldn't dropping it down change the caster and give you say 1/8" more clearance? Sure it might not be enough to fully solve the issue but it may keep the knuckle from getting past the side lugs and into your tire.
What PSI are you running? I keep my 285-16 DTs around 45psi to combat the soft sidewalks/bulge. Dunno if it would help but seems like those 2 things might be something to mess with in the meantime.
Tire pressure is definitely something that I will mess with, but I don't think that adjusting the ride height will have anything to do with the issue since the steering knuckle is the problem area.
Maybe I don't have a complete understanding of the mechanics here, but I was under the impression that there wasn't any movement of the steering knuckle in relation to the tire/wheel when mounted to the hub, since it connects the UCA and LCA via ball joints. The whole assembly can move as one (ie, the steering knuckle/hub/wheel/tire assembly), but I didn't think that there should be any play in those parts independant of one another. So, adjusting the ride height shouldn't have any appreciable effect, right? Judging from the wear on all four tires, the contact between the knuckle and tire must have been happening from the very beginning, even before I messed with the height up front.
Tire pressure is definitely something that I will mess with, but I don't think that adjusting the ride height will have anything to do with the issue since the steering knuckle is the problem area.
Nope, you are not missing something. The only way you'd have movement of the tire relative to the steering knuckle in the area you describe is if you have something loose (wheel bearings, lug nuts, etc.) or you are getting enough side load to flex components grossly (highly unlikely).
Not sure if it is the case or not, but I run studded Duratrac's in the winter on my Tundra and notice considerably more sidewall flex than the same size Trail Grapplers. This could cause more of an issue on turns. In the past I've run 305/75/16 (terra grapplers0 with no spacers and stock UCA's with no issue. I've even run 315/75/16" with only a 1/4" spacer.
Fuzz,
Wondering why you went 305/70 v 285/75? Just curious, as I've had my eye on the 285/75's ever since I put DT's on my Tacoma. (love them in the snow/sand/rocks/mud etc.... still need more ice testing)
You get the same OD without the width problem and generally better traction for Colorado style wheelin'.
As to spacers, good ones are safe but they do alter steering geometry slightly, to visualize just imagine something ridiculous like 12" spacers and how the wheel would be moving in an arc instead of pivoting. Same thing only less pronounced with 1" spacers. That leverage affects all the geometry to some degree. If Discount wanted to help you out maybe you could end up with the 285 for less $$ than spacers? Good luck, that is a drag either way.
Nope, you are not missing something. The only way you'd have movement of the tire relative to the steering knuckle in the area you describe is if you have something loose (wheel bearings, lug nuts, etc.) or you are getting enough side load to flex components grossly (highly unlikely).
Not sure if it is the case or not, but I run studded Duratrac's in the winter on my Tundra and notice considerably more sidewall flex than the same size Trail Grapplers. This could cause more of an issue on turns. In the past I've run 305/75/16 (terra grapplers0 with no spacers and stock UCA's with no issue. I've even run 315/75/16" with only a 1/4" spacer.
Fuzz,
Wondering why you went 305/70 v 285/75? Just curious, as I've had my eye on the 285/75's ever since I put DT's on my Tacoma. (love them in the snow/sand/rocks/mud etc.... still need more ice testing)
You get the same OD without the width problem and generally better traction for Colorado style wheelin'.
I see now that perhaps the 305's were a poor choice. I went with them because there are other members who are running 305's in other flavors with no issues (Terra grapplers, even Nick's KM2s dont rub, I thought that DT's would surely be ok), and I like the way they fill out the wheel well. I see now the function trumps form every time. It's certainly not worth these kinds of headaches, thats for sure.
I will talk to Discount Tire this weekend and see if they would be willing to offer me some trade in credit for the tires. It's not their responsibility I know, but the tires have already been rotated once by them and they never mentioned any problems or pointed out the huge groove wearing in the sidewalls....perhaps a little bargaining power but not much. In the end it's my vehicle, and my responsibility, which is what I'm sure the manager will point out.
I should probably just stick with the DT's but this whole thing has left me longing for a change. The coopers are pinned for studs, too...not sure if they're snowflake rated yet, I'm looking into that. Looks like a good alternative though.
Edit: No snowflake. M+S only. Stuff to think about...
Thats disconcerting. Too bad. Looks like the 285 variety is only available in white letter sidewalls anyway, bleh.
There are lots of options in 285...but maybe I should just stick with the DTs. This is all provided that Discount Tire will take care of me and get me a helluva deal on new tires. Otherwise I'm stuck.
I've used the Cooper STT's and they were very good off road, I was able to run 12psi in the sand without ever rolling the tire off the rim. This was doing literally 100's of miles on dunes including quite a bit of side slope-ing. They also did well in rocky trails without much chipping compared to others on the trail.
They were fairly loud but that is to be expected for a tire with voids like that.
The problem I had was balancing. It was impossible to balance the tires, the best I could do was pick a zone where for example they would shake from 50mph to 60mph but not above. I tried about 7 different shops in Dubai and none could do any better than picking a zone for me. A little research on the internet and I found that to be a relatively common problem with the STT.
My hope was that this new ST Maxx was Cooper's attempt to solve their balancing problem... The one example of the guy having a split near the bead doesn't concern me much because on any tire you can find examples of defective tires. But, I'm not sure I want to be a test monkey for them (no offense Trunk Monkey).
I am very interested in this thread though, because I was planning on putting the Wrangler D/T's on my 100 this week. I guess I am still going to do it, but I will be sure to check that they are not rubbing.
Fuzz, I'm surprised you didn't hear the rubbing. When I've had rubbing in the past it was always fairly loud. I assume you had the tunes jamming or maybe you forgot to take the ear plugs out after you left the range?
That surprised me as well. Especially given the fact that the UCA has eaten through the side lugs, which would definitely make some noise. The only thing I can think of is that the "rumbing" noise that MUST have been coming from the tires during the rubbing was just interpereted by me as increased tread noise. Remember, I went from plain jane silent-running Michelin MS2's to the Duratracs. At no time was it obnoxiously loud, or making any kind of concerning noise. The thing is though, The Discount Tire shop that I use is right off the highway. By the time I traveled several miles at 70mph with metal on rubber, the majority of the damage was probably done. Who knows.
There is no problem with the actual tires, here. It's just the way they fit on the 100. I'd say run the DT's without reservation, just get them in 285 as opposed to 305 and save the headache.
And me? Forgetting to take out the ear plugs? Never....
Those look every bit as good as the DTs! Have you had a chance to try them out in snow or ice yet? And I see that you can run them with the white letters in, so thats great.
Those look every bit as good as the DTs! Have you had a chance to try them out in snow or ice yet? And I see that you can run them with the white letters in, so thats great.
