Durabaked But Will It Stay?

[Bluetribal]

OK so here is a pic, unfortunately just a cell phone pics because I haven't uploaded the others to my website yet.
I plan on starting a thread in the 80's section tonight or tomorrow because there is a whole lot more info that needs to be given on doing this project and A full write-up needs to be added to the FAQ. Plus I would like to see how others who have done it are holding up because I don't trust my edge where I pealed the tape off at. So stay tuned for that and I will link that thread here but any who here is a sneak peak.
Let me know what you think.

P.S. I LUV the stance without the flares. Reid you gotta lose the flares!

 

[Sno bored]

I think it looks great. I can't wait for the whole writeup.

 

[SOCALFJ]

Looks good dude, what color is it?

 

[Brentbba]

Looks great. I used some wire edged tape. Mo just went straight electrical tape and I think his edges came out much better. Besides, the wire edged tape is not cheap!

I've had mine on about a year, both on the flares and the roof. Holding up just fine both overall and on the edges.

You're welcome to steal my write up for the FAQ. Some decent pics of the prep work, and it's all in the prep work, as well as some finished pics. Here's the link to my write up and pics.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=95866&highlight=durabak

 

[Bluetribal]

You see now that is some stuff that I missed and you even missed mentioning wire tape in your write-up. This is why a FAQ needs to be done up with everyones input in one place. And future opinions and options can be added to it. I just used the scuff pad and now that I am done kinda regret not sanding it down more.
There are some major things I plan to address in my upcoming thread:
Prep
How long this mod actually takes
When to remove the tape
Does outside temperature matter

And finally when you screw the pooch like I did and the edge starts pulling away when removing the tape how do you save your lining? I would not currently trust taking it through the car wash right now although 80-90% of the edges are OK.

 

[Brentbba]

Read more carefully young skywalker - I do mention down in the thread a ways
that my only mistake was using the wire tape. On a straight line it was ok, but I couldn't get it to lay flat around the corners.

My two cents for use:
prep - DO LOTS OF IT. Really work hard to remove all the clear coat and wax buildup and spend LOTS of careful time sanding the prep area. I think this is most critical. Be sure to clean all areas to be Durabaked completely with Xylene per instructions. I did use it on the flares even tho the Xylene can specifically says not to use it on fiberglass (IIRC).

Time spent - wow, it's been awhile, but I'd guestimate that I spent a good 4-6 hours on the prep work. One hour of that alone was the careful removal of the old flare gasket adhesive to ensure that the new ones would set well. I used goo gone, Xylene and a careful application of a razor blade to get it all off. FYI - I'm extremely anal about prep work. I'd rather spend the prep time up front than having to redo the job because I cut corners preping the first time!

Durabak instructions say to let the product set up for about an hour IIRC before removing the tape.

Outside temp is a good question - not an issue here in SoCal.

Let me know if I can contribute anything else. You've got the making of a good FAQ.

I'm sure Mo can add his wisdom as well. He did the doors and rocker panels as well.

 

[Boston Mangler]

80's look SOOOO much better without flares!

Looks Awesome Mark!

Can you add to it? If it were my rig, i would add another 1" to the horizontal line to cover the groove, but thats me!

 

[blupaddler]

Looks great!
I like the grey too.


Did you have the flare holes welded? Or?

 

[calstyl2]

what did you plug the holes with?
my dark grey durabak faded quick, went very dull

 

[619TOY]

Reid you gotta lose the flares!

He does, almost every run...........Ba, dump, bump

Seriously though, lookin' good. I still plan on keeping my flares forever though.



Sorry Reid, I just couldn't help myself

 

[Boston Mangler]

Did you have the flare holes welded?

Pretty sure i am the only idiot anal enough to do that!

 

[Bluetribal]

Read more carefully young skywalker - I do mention down in the thread a ways
that my only mistake was using the wire tape. On a straight line it was ok, but I couldn't get it to lay flat around the corners.

Oops, my bad I perused it quickly.

Be sure to clean all areas to be Durabaked completely with Xylene per instructions.

Yeah, I did that. Bought a HUGE jug for $17 because that's all they had and used hardly any.

Time spent - wow, it's been awhile, but I'd guestimate that I spent a good 4-6 hours on the prep work. One hour of that alone was the careful removal of the old flare gasket adhesive to ensure that the new ones would set well.

Wow the flares took me 3 hrs the first day with a couple beer breaks. And then another two hours the next day removing the goo. I used crappy stuff at first till' I found out that Simple Green was the ticket on removal.

Durabak instructions say to let the product set up for about an hour IIRC before removing the tape.

We ended up finishing my buddy's truck since I knew I wouldn't get mine done that second day. And his Herculiner went on great and the tape came off nice when he was finished. So I just followed the same recipe the next day and didn't bother with the instructions on the Durabak.

Outside temp is a good question - not an issue here in SoCal.

I don't know about that! it was about 88 or so when I did mine and although I had the pop-up covering 80% of the truck my stuff dried QUICK and made tape removal VERY Difficult......

 

[Bluetribal]

what did you plug the hoes with?

Aluminum tape which brings up another question should that be scuffed up? I forgot to scuff mine although I never read anywhere that you should.

my dark grey durabak faded quick, went very dull

Did you have the UV protected Durabak?

OK, well I got the photos up tonight so I will start the thread over in the 80 section tomorrow on my lunch break but if any of you have ideas on how to seal my edges from weather please share.

Oh and Boston I just followed the two tone line I already had but I may need to go an inch higher like you described to re-seal the edges with the left over Durabak.

Here are the photos and I will link here to the thread when I start. Gotta go to bed, up early all this week!

 

[calstyl2]

Aluminum tape which brings up another question should that be scuffed up? I forgot to scuff mine although I never read anywhere that you should.



Did you have the UV protected Durabak?

:

well damn I dont know but will find out, I have a gallon more left over,
but dark grey on Sage wont look good for my 80, the other was on my 40's fenders and 1/2 doors

 

[Slomo]

Looks great Mark!

A few bits of info FWIW, I spent a ton of time scuffing the surface with 3M Scotchbrite pads and really focused on getting the edge of the pad along the very edge of the tape to ensure that it all got a good scuff and cleaning with the Xylene. Not at all rubbing your situation in but I didn't get a single bit of edge that pulled up and I think that is the reason why. I spent two full days at 8hrs apiece doing my treatment on the fenders, rockers and my "alien landing strips" on the roof. Thanks Boyd.

Not sure on the adding of more coating. I am sure it can be done and may be the best course for you since you have some edges coming up. Sorry to hear that by the way. If you do just make sure to get all that wants to come up, up. Then make sure you get it all scuffed really well and cleaned really well. It will take longer with the uneven edges that you will undoubtedly end up with but I think it will work. I haven't personally added more to mine but my thinking is that I would be carefull and try not to get anymore Durabak on the original coating than you have to so the seam will be less visible.

I didn't scuff the aluminum tape before I coated and haven't had any problems with it coming up except where I accidently hit the side of my truck with the rear axleshaft. Happened to be right where a piece of tape was. I pushed the Durabak back in place with my fingernail and haven't had a problem since. Fingers crossed.

I found using the electrical tape for the exact edge and blue painters tape over that covering about 80% of the electrical tape worked awesome. I put on the first coat per the instructions and added the second coat after an hour of set time. By the time I finished the second coat I was able to go back to where I started and pulled the electrical tape. Worked great. Have to give credit to concretejungle as he is the one who reccomended this technique in his write up IIRC.

Cheers

 

[calstyl2]

great tip on the tape

 

[LandCrusher'70]

Reid you gotta lose the flares!

He does, almost every run...........Ba, dump, bump

Pffft. You got that right!

I think it looks great Mark. Color looks really good.

I had a bit of peeling around the edges when I did the tub of my 40 (prep at edges was not good enough). I just cut back the 'loose' stuff, sanded, xylened, re-taped and dabbed on some touch up. I also did the whole cargo area of my Suburban. I prepped the hell out of that. I actually sandblasted the tough spots. I have a couple of areas peeling in there, but that's from throwing concrete blocks on it. It has really held up very well.

Can't wait to see it in person.

 

[Bluetribal]

Yeah I think I am going to have to re-tape and use a dremel with a little sanding wheel to re-do the edges. The biggest problem I am having is the door sill where I put my foot to get out without wearing out the seats. That is the spot I am holding back with my finger. I thing I might cut this section back and not let it wrap over the edge.

For the most part it is all holding up pretty well it's just the door sill and the tailgate that are my main worries.

 

[Slomo]

Yeah I think I am going to have to re-tape and use a dremel with a little sanding wheel to re-do the edges.

If you do just be carefull not to take off too much with the dremel as you can hit metal quickly and leave marks that may show through the Durabak.

I also found that I could see inside the door jamb and I taped it off scuffed and painted it with semi-flat black becuase I didn't want to bother with the durabak touch up. Turned out good.

 

[Bluetribal]

Yeah, I taped off my jams and was shocked that the Durabak really only goes on what the roller touches. It doesn't seep like I thought it would. Now I am wondering if I should just fix this edge or do the full jam. Even with prep work will the durabak handle hiking boots on the trail stepping all over it?

Oh and here is the post I started in the 80's section. LINK