Dual Battery Wiring Help

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I ran 2 awg using the blue seas 7622 ACR. Mine actually failed and blue seas sent me a new one no questions asked. I really like the remote switch. I used it often to manually disconnect the batteries and to combine them for winching. Another thing I found super useful where the Blue seas battery terminal fuses. Mine have 150amp fuses.

IMG_2754.JPG
 
Blue Sea 7611, 4 AWG Wire, 150A ANL Fuses
Selector Switch to Combine for Winching (Warn 10K)
4' 4AWG Jumper Cable (Heavy Duty Ends from Ebay)
2 Costco Batteries
New Denso Starter
Spare Fusible Links and EFI Relay
AAA if all else fails
 
Blue Sea 7611, 4 AWG Wire, 150A ANL Fuses
Selector Switch to Combine for Winching (Warn 10K)
4' 4AWG Jumper Cable (Heavy Duty Ends from Ebay)
2 Costco Batteries
New Denso Starter
Spare Fusible Links and EFI Relay
AAA if all else fails
More photos. I have since cleaned up the wiring by putting split loom ver everything and washed my engine bay lol

View attachment 1470314

View attachment 1470315

Looks nice. I would be a little concerned that you're not using the larger auto negative posts and only counting on the auxiliary posts which I believe are for lower current draws, particularly on a starter or winch operation.
 
@Funner I was worried about this too. i did a bit of research and found that those posts are meant to run an electric trolling motor continuously. So should be good enough for a short winch pull. My actual winch is wired to the start battery on the auto terminals
 
A fuse is not polarized. Works the same in either direction (since there is no 'direction').

cheers,
george.

While this is a very true statement it is good practice to ensure the end without the hook is connected to the non powered side of the circuit. Reason being when you disconnect the hook it wont short agaist any metalwork as you swing the fuse away.
 
@Funner I was worried about this too. i did a bit of research and found that those posts are meant to run an electric trolling motor continuously. So should be good enough for a short winch pull. My actual winch is wired to the start battery on the auto terminals

Okay, I am not an electrical engineer by any means, when I saw the black terminal protectors on both batteries I assumed they were not in use. I try to pick up hints from people that know more than I do (not hard to find) and pass that info along as appropriate. Glad you're all squared away.

Edit: Looking at specs online for amp draw of 40-60 lb thrust (pretty big) trolling motor 40-60 amps vs warn 9k winch pulling just 6,000 lbs is 332 amps, I would say you have a problem. Stuck in mud pulling an 80 series at 9000 lbs limit is 478 amps. Probably going to melt that terminal.
 
Last edited:
Other than money... Is there any advantage of fuses over breakers when installing a dual battery system? Thanks! Hijack over.

Not a hijack and a good question.

To me, fuses are awesome. They don't degrade, develop faults or fail closed. Breakers cost more, have more and different failure modes, but are more convenient to use. If you use breakers, the Bussman waterproof breakers are about as good as it gets. and they are great. But if you want ultimate failsafe, fuses are it.

Either is better than nothing, which is what most people do.

Just remember, 12 volts shorted, can burn down your truck, so plan your install accordingly.
 
Last edited:
Criuserdrew, Thank you for your input!

When I did my frame off FJ40 rebuild a few years ago... you were one of the guys in the 40 section that I respected highly! Thanks again!
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom