DS Window, regulator & motor replacement

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Doc says I'm 1 in 120K. Lucky?
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Sep 4, 2013
I've got new runs, new felt, new regulator, new motor, all OEM from Beno.

I've been searching for an hour or so and can't find a few answers, could use some help. FSM isn't very helpful on this subject either it seems.

1. How do you actually remove the Window? Do you lower it slightly then undo it from the regulator pieces and lift out? Lift to outside?
2. The 7 or 8 bolts on the door panel are obvious, additionally there are supposed to be 3 Torx that you have to remove from inside the door. I found two, having a problem finding a 3rd. Is there a 3rd?
3. I see a lot of warnings about the spring tension and being careful. What is best method of taking these apart?

Has anyone been successful in getting pictures that describe this?

I have the FSM in PDF format but there isn't anything on removing the window, or really much on removing replacing any of these items. Is there a good writeup somewhere?
There is a channel that grabs the glass at the bottom of the window. There are two screws that hold this to the regulator. If you take these two screws off, the window will be free and able to come out.

Since you're replacing the runs, pull them out first and it'll be a lot easier to pull the glass.

Someone else will have to chime in about the regulator, I've never pulled mine out.

PS - don't forget the graphite. I've heard it works wonders on helping the glass move in the channel without creating a huge mess.
Good point, I'll remove the runs all together, that should make it easier to pull out.
Why are you pulling the glass? I have replaced all the parts you list without removing glass.
Lower the window almost fully, remove the two bolts at the bottom of the glass. Slide the window all the way up and flop a couple pieces of packing tape over the top of the door frame.
Pull the regulator and motor and motor connector from the door panel. The speaker has to come out too.
Get it on the bench and replace the motor. This is where the spring may cause a problem. Some come to you with the spring unhooked. Be sure to rehook it when you are done changing the motor.
Put it all back together and then replace the rubber window runs. Silicone spray on the outside of the run will make it slide in easy. Use the window motor up/down to help the run in.
Adjust the slop with the lower left bolt in a slot per the FSM.
If you bought outside belt moulding, you will need to remove the mirror, so leave that black triangle trim off until you're done with that.
Enjoy the nice fast window!
One thing to check - make sure your channel is properly seated on the base of the window. Mine had slipped a bit, so I got a new insert and re-did the channel and such. It was a bit of a pain getting on, but a rubber mallet, a little windex and some patience got it all together.
I did mine yesterday. My window got off track and the regulator got bent and then the window got pinched and broke. So I had to get a new window so I went ahead and replaced the runs and the regulator. It finally goes up and down, not just down!
My window almost works fine it rolls up and down as long as I stop 2 inches from the bottom. If I roll it down more than that it doesn't roll back up. It seems like it shifts forward and I have to pull it back towards the rear of the truck about 3/8 of an inch then it rolls.up fine. I am just getting ready to tackle this but would like to know what parts to have on hand before I start. What would most likely be bad to cause my problem. the windown doesn't leak and it goes up plenty fast, as long as it doesn't get stuck at the bottom. Thanks
I just did this exact same job. My glass had actually popped out of the channel that bolts to the regulator. I found it much easier to remove the glass out the top and then re-seat the glass in the channel using my tailgate as a work bench. Getting that channel back on inside the door would have been a bear. If you don't need to re-seat that channel, then no need to remove the glass.

Below are the instructions assuming you do not need to re-seat the glass in the channel.
  1. Step 6
  2. Roll window down until you can see the two bolts that tie the channel to the regulator...remove them (don't drop window).
  3. Manually slide window up to top and secure in place with painting or packing tape over the window frame.
  4. Step 6
  5. Disconnect the motor harness and pop the plug out of the door skin that it is clipped to.
  6. Remove 6 bolts holding regulator and motor to inner door skin and pull assembly out of the access hole.
  7. Reinstall new motor and regulator as an assembled unit back into the door with the same 6 bolts.
  8. Reconnect wire harness.
  9. Step 6
  10. Slide window down and reconnect the channel to the new regulator with the 2 bolts.
  11. Remove interior black triangle plastic, be careful not to break it..they are fragile now.
  12. Remove three bolts securing mirror and wiggle mirror out so that the outside belt molding can be accessed.
  13. With the window down, you can see the clips that hold the outside belt mounding onto the door, unclip them with a pick and remove the 1 screw on the outer edge of the door. Remove belt molding
  14. Step 6
  15. Install new belt molding...self explanatory.
  16. Pull window runs and install new ones. Start with the upper corner and work your way down both sides.
  17. If you got new interior belt molding as well, then replace those on the door panels prior to re installing.
  18. Step 6
mine was popping out of the rubber tracks/runs. I don't know if it was cause the regulator was bent or if the regulator got bent when the window was stuck. either way, new runs are probably a good idea. it is pretty easy to take the cover off the door and look inside to see what the condition is. (i watched a youtube video and was able to get it done with a swiss army knife in the middle of a snowstorm when it wouldnt shut) if you go to that trouble, I would put new runs in
My front windows roll up and down at a decent clip except in the cold. My driver side also seems to track up and towards the front before moving toward the rear at the last 1" or so of travel before closing completely.

I'm going to order new runs, but what's causing the window to not move/down straight? Is it the channels and if so what are the OEM part #s to get new channels?

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