Driving to Peekaboo Canyon near Kanab, UT
- Thread starter Dan Lee
- Start date
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turbo8
Supporting Vendor
I might have actually just been in drive on the way back up, I was going around 20-30mph, maybe even faster than that.
From the Red Canyon Slot Aka Peek a boo parking lot, it was all sand til the wash. I'm not sure if there was different routes for trucks\ATVs, but I was on the main trail.
- Thread starter
- #63
Thanks. I was referencing this map I found. Sounds like the parking lot to 102M is sandy and recommended mostly for ATV. Regular 4wd trucks may find 102M and then keeping on 102 to the wash as an easier route (don't take 102L and avoid 102 from 102M to the parking lot @ 89). It doesn't say this on the map I but I think I read it on some other webpage. That being said, sounds like you made it okay. Did the Taco get stuck on 102 or 102L?
Glad to hear you made it without a lot of drama. Congrats on your first (of probably many) wheeling adventures
turbo8
Supporting Vendor
I don't see a reason to go on 102M, the sand wasn't that deep to that point. Where I got bogged down, when waiting for the Taco, was at the 102-102L fork. Taco got stuck right before the cattle guard on 102. Yellow arrow is pointing to cattle gaurd, red x is where he got stuck (I'm pretty sure I drove right through on the way down) and the blue line is an alternate route that wasn't as deep.
- Thread starter
- #66
Hi all,
I made it from Cannonville to Glendale on Skutumpah Road (BLM 500), stopping by at Willis Creek (well worth the drive for me). This road was mostly okay. There was one section near Willis Creek where a friendly park ranger was advising people that many vehicles were getting stuck / not able to pass through. He recommended walking the road and determine if one wanted to attempt or not. Without experience, the troublesome spot gave me definite pause. It was deep powdery sand with several deep pits / ruts on an incline right after a switchback. I didn't think I could make it. They advised a capable vehicle AND experience. I wasn't sure about the former and knew I didn't have the latter.
However, I waited there watching for other vehicles. Jeeps and such. I was thinking that if they could make, the LX is probably sufficiently capable (although an Outback didn't make it). Using all the tips you guys provided above and airing down to 25psi, I gave it a shot. It was bumpy. And without any real technique or finesse, I brute forced through the spot. It wasn't too bad and I never felt I was about to get stuck. However, it was over pretty quickly and was probably in a nervous panic. In any case, I made it through.
I also made it out to the North Rim and enjoyed some of Jacob's Lake cookies while taking in the scenery at view point. Saw a huge bison en route as well.
After that, I tried Peekaboo. Again, following all your tips and suggestions, I made it through fine. There were a couple of spots where it may be iffy if I had to stop. But I made it through the entire length, some tail wagging and the sand caused me to lose some speed at times. But I made it though without getting stuck.
Thanks again for all the help and tips! It really proved valuable and made the difference in the trip.
I made it from Cannonville to Glendale on Skutumpah Road (BLM 500), stopping by at Willis Creek (well worth the drive for me). This road was mostly okay. There was one section near Willis Creek where a friendly park ranger was advising people that many vehicles were getting stuck / not able to pass through. He recommended walking the road and determine if one wanted to attempt or not. Without experience, the troublesome spot gave me definite pause. It was deep powdery sand with several deep pits / ruts on an incline right after a switchback. I didn't think I could make it. They advised a capable vehicle AND experience. I wasn't sure about the former and knew I didn't have the latter.
However, I waited there watching for other vehicles. Jeeps and such. I was thinking that if they could make, the LX is probably sufficiently capable (although an Outback didn't make it). Using all the tips you guys provided above and airing down to 25psi, I gave it a shot. It was bumpy. And without any real technique or finesse, I brute forced through the spot. It wasn't too bad and I never felt I was about to get stuck. However, it was over pretty quickly and was probably in a nervous panic. In any case, I made it through.
I also made it out to the North Rim and enjoyed some of Jacob's Lake cookies while taking in the scenery at view point. Saw a huge bison en route as well.
After that, I tried Peekaboo. Again, following all your tips and suggestions, I made it through fine. There were a couple of spots where it may be iffy if I had to stop. But I made it through the entire length, some tail wagging and the sand caused me to lose some speed at times. But I made it though without getting stuck.
Thanks again for all the help and tips! It really proved valuable and made the difference in the trip.
Always awesome to successfully push yourself in new situations.
- Thread starter
- #68
Could you guys indulge one follow-up question?
I was able to traverse the deep sand while in H4 (S2 or S3) and while in L4 (S3 or S4). Traversing in L4 resulted in higher RPMs and thus higher gear - tried to keep RPM below 3k (I think; it all happened kind of quick so didn't really pay too much attention to engine speed). While traversing in H4 allowed for lower RPMs but in a lower gear.
What's actually better? Should I try to keep RPMs low (2K?) or high (3K+?) for a given travel speed while traversing deep sand? Or should the focus be on gear - keep it in lower gears or higher gears?
I was able to maintain speed (say, 20-30mph) in both, but the RPM and gear was different. Which is better (to avoid getting stuck? better for engine / transmission?)?
I was able to traverse the deep sand while in H4 (S2 or S3) and while in L4 (S3 or S4). Traversing in L4 resulted in higher RPMs and thus higher gear - tried to keep RPM below 3k (I think; it all happened kind of quick so didn't really pay too much attention to engine speed). While traversing in H4 allowed for lower RPMs but in a lower gear.
What's actually better? Should I try to keep RPMs low (2K?) or high (3K+?) for a given travel speed while traversing deep sand? Or should the focus be on gear - keep it in lower gears or higher gears?
I was able to maintain speed (say, 20-30mph) in both, but the RPM and gear was different. Which is better (to avoid getting stuck? better for engine / transmission?)?
Speaking technically and from a little experience (but not tons)...
L4.
Honestly it's not RPM that matters so much, it's wheel speed (really wheel spin/slippage). L4 puts you into a better torque band on the engine. You'll get RPMS up faster but the wheels won't spin as fast if they lose traction and start to dig in. Also L4 supports the MTS and CRAWL settings that you don't get in H4 - so with L4 and MTS set to M/S traction control will better manage your wheel spin and somewhat help you keep from getting dug in. And if you do get in, enable CRAWL with the M/S setting and it's really good at helping walk you out of sandy stuff that mere humans can't negotiate.
L4.
Honestly it's not RPM that matters so much, it's wheel speed (really wheel spin/slippage). L4 puts you into a better torque band on the engine. You'll get RPMS up faster but the wheels won't spin as fast if they lose traction and start to dig in. Also L4 supports the MTS and CRAWL settings that you don't get in H4 - so with L4 and MTS set to M/S traction control will better manage your wheel spin and somewhat help you keep from getting dug in. And if you do get in, enable CRAWL with the M/S setting and it's really good at helping walk you out of sandy stuff that mere humans can't negotiate.
- Thread starter
- #70
Thanks! Sorry, I wrote it somewhat confusingly I guess. I wasn't trying to keep RPM's up, actually I was thinking I should try to keep RPM's down. But the way to do this for the speeds I was maintaining was either through higher L4 gear (ie - S4) or using H4 (and S2 or S3). One seems preferential (ie - less adverse impact) to engine, the other to transmission (over heating the transmission?).
Perhaps neither is a concern and just use whichever is best for avoid getting stuck - the engine and transmission are more than robust enough to handle either mode.
But in any case, sounds like L4 is better indicated for the conditions, even if I don't have the MTS setting (I think I only have CRAWL, I can't select terrain type in my '08).
Perhaps neither is a concern and just use whichever is best for avoid getting stuck - the engine and transmission are more than robust enough to handle either mode.
But in any case, sounds like L4 is better indicated for the conditions, even if I don't have the MTS setting (I think I only have CRAWL, I can't select terrain type in my '08).
When they say, "4WD, NOT AWD", what they are really saying is that you need a 4Low setting/gear. AWD vehicles don't have 4Low. 4 Low gives you the torque you need to get the power to the traction to get out of things that are trying to hold you back. If you can do it without wheel spin, or as little as possible, that's best. Wheelspin digs you in deeper. If it digs you in until you hit hardpack or rocks, that's great. Otherwise, you end up in a situation where you need to be pulled out. When wheels start spinning, rethink your approach to the problem and find a different solution. Aint nobody got time for spin. Congratulations on what sounds like a great trip!
Great advice and thanks to this forum, I've really learned a lot about dropping pressures, even in my extra set of 20s. I noticed nobody talked about turning off RSCA. Center lock happens by default in 4lo, and traction control is managed by the crawl setting, but the roll curtain airbags only turn off if you set RSCA off.
No, it doesn’t.
The trick to sand is not necessarily 4LO IMO. Key is the center diff lock - which makes the 4WD system perform equivalent to a 4x4. It also disables VSC which is the other major key in sand to maintain wheelspeed and keep the ECU from from cutting power. Hitting this button can be done on the fly while in motion which is perfect when transitioning into soft stuff.
4Hi can be used just fine, preferably in sport mode with gear selector in 1 or 2 depending on grade. Wheel speed just a bit over ground speeds (needs VSC to be off), but maintaining momentum and ground speed is what's really important for deep dry sand. 4LO does help if slogging through long stretches or steeper stuff and can keep things run cooler
4Hi can be used just fine, preferably in sport mode with gear selector in 1 or 2 depending on grade. Wheel speed just a bit over ground speeds (needs VSC to be off), but maintaining momentum and ground speed is what's really important for deep dry sand. 4LO does help if slogging through long stretches or steeper stuff and can keep things run cooler
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Yes. This.
