Driving to Peekaboo Canyon near Kanab, UT (1 Viewer)

[Dan Lee]

Thanks. Yea, same. I can go to a dirt lot and try to make sure it works. But no obstacles to really test if/when it's useful. Maybe it's one of those hail mary features - use it when you've exhausted the usual options and doesn't hurt to just try it out.

 

[afgman786]

Thanks for the tips guys.

4H locking the center diff - I did not know that. I'll try that out; I thought I read 4L only. CRAWL - I need to read the manual again. I forgot when it will engage. I'm not sure how to test it - I've never used it before......

CRAWL can be turned on when you are in 4Lo. You activate by pushing the button and then can select the speed.

As others have stated, air down and lock the center diff and you should be good to go. Definitely resist the urge to stay on the throttle once momentum stops.

Also don't let it be made to YouTube that a Heep is pulling an LX out haha (Matts recovery)

 

[Dan Lee]

LoL. I'll bury the LX before I call Matt's.

 

[pcut]

You could go on to www.expeditionutah.com, login and ask on the trip reports section for southwestern Utah what the current conditions are like at Peekaboo. The last time I was in there (3-4 years ago) it was a piece of cake. Just aired down and locked the diff. You could also call
kanab off road rentals and ask them. Best to get current conditions on the ground IMHO.
(435) 648-3802
Have fun and be safe!!

 

[kcjaz]

Thanks for the tips guys.

4H locking the center diff - I did not know that. I'll try that out; I thought I read 4L only. CRAWL - I need to read the manual again. I forgot when it will engage. I'm not sure how to test it - I've never used it before......

Yes. read your manual and find a dirt road and play. I believe you said you have a 2008 LX. That means you are normally in 4H with the center diff unlocked (AWD). There is a button by your left knee (at least that is where mine is on a 2013 LC but probably different in your LX) that locks and unlocks the center diff. You will get a dash indicator light telling you if it is on or off. Blinking means it is trying to go from open to locked or locked to open. If it is blinking it is stuck in whatever state it was in when you hit the button. It is not uncommon for it to get stuck in a position and not want to engage or disengage. If this happens, driving a little foreward or backward or shifting to neutral usually gets it to do what you want. It is usually due to the drive train being a little bound up or in tension. You can lock the center diff in 4H or 4Lo and even while you are moving but don't lock it and drive on dry pavement. The reason is that with the center diff locked, the front and rear axles will rotate the same and when you turn, the wheels need to slip or your drive train will get bound up and won't be happy. If you are going to be on sand/dirt/gravel etc, and going say <30 mph, you can just stay in 4Lo with center diff locked. That, with tires aired down will give you maximum traction. Be sure to be in a complete stop when shifting into or out of 4Lo. When in 4Lo, you can select the type of terain using the MTS (mulit-terain selcet) selector switch on the center console (or wherever yours is). It will default to whatever you selected last (I think). The selection is displayed between your speedo and tack.

If you play with the crawl feature, and you should, the wierd noises are normal. If you have never done this, the noises will inspire you to shut it off right away but don't worry, its OK. Crawl can be useful but generally, most people do not use it much. It is also not designed for contineous use as the brakes will over heat. No one could really stand to use it for miles and miles anyway so that is not a problem.

 

[Dan Lee]

Again, thanks for all the help guys. I'm looking forward to experiencing deep sand for the first time. I think I'll be fine but just in case, I wanted to prepare for sand recovery (someone helping me but who knows, maybe I can help out someone else).

I have this:
* Rhino strap: Amazon product ASIN B06WRSR2PG
* Smitty D-ring (2x; for attaching strap to front of car (in my mind): Amazon product ASIN B001CF1A6U

* Rhino shackle hitch: Amazon.com: RHINO USA Shackle Hitch Receiver, Best Towing Accessories for Trucks & Jeeps, Connect Your Rhino Tow Strap for Vehicle Recovery to This 31,418 lbs Capacity Reciever, Mounts to 2 Receivers!: Automotive

I'm reading through threads and I have some dumb questions:
1) Is what I have sufficient? Should I replace my strap with a stretchable snatch strap?
2) Should I use something different from attach a strap to the front? Or is the d-ring okay? Do I attach d-ring to the front tow tie down hole? Or where is best?
3) Should I front attach a strap using both sides of the truck, or one side is okay? If both sides, do I use the 'tree equalizer' thing or something different? (I'm assuming that if stuck, other vehicle is directly in front or behind me - both vehicles in a line and not canted to each other). Although I should probably consider one vehicle in a ditch or around a curve......

 

[bemerritt]

Just so you know, I’ve hiked that canyon before. I don’t recall any portion of the road that should give you any trouble at all. I was there years ago, but I don’t recall it being far at all from the main road that connects to Escalante.

 

[grinchy]

I suggest you watch one of the recovery videos on YouTube regarding hookup. And then go out to the truck and try it out in a dry run. You don’t need a snatch rope (stretchy) but in some situations it’s money. Don’t forget a pair of leather gloves, and a trash bag is handy to lie on and then to put dirty or muddy recovery gear in.
Sand self recovery is often about shovel and recovery boards.

 

[Dan Lee]

Thanks. Yes, I'm not expecting to get stuck, especially after airing down (btw, I finally tested my viair and it seems to work pretty well; actually faster and quieter than I expected going from 25 to 43 psi). But Murphy may treat me special this time out. I'd rather invest in a little bit of money for the right recovery gear than $1000 for Matt to come out (not actually sure how much he would charge but likely more than gear would cost).

I think the sand stretch to the slot is about 3 miles long; there's an ATV route and a truck route; I'll stick to the truck route. If buddy and time allows, it may not hurt to intentionally get slightly stuck so that I can get some experience digging out..... Better to gain experience while I have immediate help rather than learn while I'm alone 100 miles from pavement.

I just bought the maxsa boards. And I'm bringing a couple of shovels (short and long handle). And a tarp. Sounds like that's all I really need then? I'll bring what I have but likely won't use unless I know proper use. I bought them after some initial reading and videos awhile back. But with more reading and videos, seems like an ARB or Bubba snatch rope is more indicated. But I won't use them unless I know where and how to attach them. Rear is more straightforward I guess w/ the hitch shackle. But not sure about the front. I'm looking for tube videos but haven't found anything specific to the 200.

 

[grinchy]

Consensus is that the front points in stock form are plenty suitable. One shovel is enough, I carry a short handle. I think you'll be fine and most likely nothing at all will be necessary.
On snatch ropes there are many many of these available beyond the name brands. Just know going in that the storage size of the larger diameter and longer ropes is pretty big.

 

[Dan Lee]

I'm going to go w/ what I have for this trip. But I noticed that ARB offers some bolt on front recovery points. When searching for a vendor, the ARB website points to one chain store but they only seem to carry a universal (actually for Tacoma it seems) front recovery point item.

Dumb question: what online vendor sells ARB parts? I can't seem to find any..... I'll keep looking but I can't find a vendor that carries the recovery points for the LX.

 

[turbo8]

The recovery points on your LX are fine. If you really want the ARB ones, the part number is 2815020

2815020 - ARB Recovery Point

Vehicle Fitment: 2008 + Land Cruiser 200 Series

www.toyteclifts.com

'08-Current Toyota Landcruiser 200 Series Recovery Point

ARB-2815020 An ARB recovery point for your vehicle can address the issues surrounding OE and generic aftermarket tow points and their unsuitability for a range of recovery situations. ARB’s engineers have developed the Land Cruiser recovery point to t in conjunction with standard bumpers and ARB...

sdhqoffroad.com

ARB 2008-On Toyota 200 Series Land Cruiser Recovery Point - 17,636lb Rating

Our 200 Series Land Cruiser recovery points are constructed from high grade steel. Purchase these ARB recovery points to maximize clearance under your vehicle.

www.metaltech4x4.com

 

[Dan Lee]

Thanks! Yes, I want to study the stock front recovery points more - get underneath the car and check it out. And also study the ARB bolt on points. For now, I'm going to just go w/ stock and hopefully avoid getting into situations that require attach a strap to the front. But looking for what the parts look like and price. ARB didn't seem to have any 200 series specific information. This helps a lot.

 

[CharlieS]

Thanks! Yes, I want to study the stock front recovery points more - get underneath the car and check it out. And also study the ARB bolt on points. For now, I'm going to just go w/ stock and hopefully avoid getting into situations that require attach a strap to the front. But looking for what the parts look like and price. ARB didn't seem to have any 200 series specific information. This helps a lot.

The exact 200 series recovery points are linked above. Two required. They bolt to the same points as the factory tie down points, using hardware provided by ARB.

I got mine from Cruiser Outfitters. The owner Kurt is a regular around here.

 

[turbo8]

Here are some tips.

Keep your moment up, probably should shift into s2 or s3

Don't stop on uphill slopes

Try not to slam your brakes when coming to a stop, this can cause you to plow up sand in front of your tires and make it difficult to start going again.

bring a shovel

In some situations the traction control system can cut power if it detects too much wheel spin, even when in 4WD.
This typically happens when trying to go up a dune\hill.
Make sure you know how to turn traction control completely off. To do this, hold the traction control button while not moving for a few seconds.
Don't use this to get yourself stuck more.

If you do get stuck, crawl control should be able to shake its self out. Steering back and forth while the tires are spinning can also aid in getting you unstuck.

I drove into White Pocket,AZ a couple weeks ago through the sand in my LX, tires were at 35 psi, no problem.

 

[ko21]

I regularly work out in the desert in that area for years and I’d echo what turbo8 said. A simple shovel has got me out of most of my predicaments. I just got an LC about 5 months ago and always used sierras in the past. I had only a few times where I didn’t get through the sand clean with a Sierra, and the LC is so much better off road I sort of couldn’t believe it. I have never aired down, but that could be a good idea. I would say focus on being smooth, keep your momentum, and don’t stop. I don’t think you’ll have any trouble. Absolute must is to turn off traction control before going in.

 

[Dan Lee]

Thanks guys. My pre-checklist is now: center locked, VSC off, Atrac off, air down to 25 psi.

 

[linuxgod]

I'd probably run lower than 25psi, but YMMV. I typically run 1/2 my normal PSI on rocks (18-19 vs 38-40) and I've gone lower in sand (15-16). You can probably go even lower (8-10 psi) if you get stuck in deep sand, at least until you get unstuck. You're unlikely to slip a bead if you're in something soft like sand and you're driving forward. What causes the tire to come off the rim is lateral force - i.e. turning at speed where the physics of the vehicle want it to keep going straight ahead. If you've ever seen the amount of force required to get a mounted tire off a rim when changing it you'll understand what I mean.

Also I've not tried it but I've seen videos of CRAWL getting the 200 out of deep sand where the tires were just spinning and you would've never thought the truck would've gone anywhere. As much as the hardcore guys on the forum will scream "triple lockers" the CRAWL/MTS system is really impressive and IMO in this situation probably does a better job than a triple-locked rig.

Not a 200 but an example of Toyota CRAWL in action -

A 200 on 20" street tires getting out of the sand -

 

[Dan Lee]

Thanks! I'm probably being a little conservative here since I'm running the stock profile (K02 with 285/55/20) and still not sure what min pressure I should safely stay above to avoid debeading vs you guys running profiles better suited for off road (ie 285/70/17). Also, I assume that efficacy continues to increase as pressure drops basically toward zero; or is there a point of diminishing returns for a given tire size?

I don't want to re-invent the wheel here; you guys have all the experience already. It seems like this trail, it's common for trucks to get stuck. So maybe lower pressure to 15-25psi from the beginning. But for new areas without known history, is it common practice to just keep whatever pressure you're using until you get stuck and then lower it? Or new or known, do you just lower pressure from the beginning if it looks at all possible that you might get stuck?

 

[linuxgod]

Half your normal PSI should be a good place to start. Check the door sticker and work from there. That said being conservative is definitely a good idea if you don't have an easy way to swap to the spare if you did slip a bead.

On sand it's your call. I always air down at the start of a trail. If you're fully inflated you're much more likely to dig yourself in and get stuck, whereas if you air down you're less likely to get yourself in a situation where you're relying on the maxtrax, shovel, CRAWL, etc. I'd rather think "that was so easy I'm not sure I needed to air down" then to be outside sweating through (or during) a recovery. If this was rocks or a forest trail I'd say deflate at the start because the pointy stuff can tear a sidewall if you're fully inflated since the tire can't deflect, but sand is soft so that won't be your issue.

From the internetz on taller 17s or 18s it seems like 15 is reasonable, though with a shorter tire profile it will depend a bit:

Sand Driving

The Aussies say run 16 psi in sand, and temporarily drop it if you get stuck:

Best tyre pressure for beach driving (How to not get bogged)

The best tyre pressure for sand depends on a few things, but most people don’t let nearly enough out. Find out more here.

www.4wdingaustralia.com

and

What tyre pressures are best for sand Driving? - Expedition Australia

Setting your tyres to the right pressure for sand can mean the difference between a great day and a nightmare scenario.

www.expeditionaustralia.com.au

.

"By letting your tyres down to 16psi you significantly increase the size of the tyres footprint on the sand so you have the same weight of vehicle spread over about twice as much rubber and therefore half the weight per square inch.
...
You can go as low as 6 or 8psi if you need to but only to get you out of the s*** - make sure you have your compressor handy and pump them back up to 16psi again when you're clear and back to road pressure before you head home."