What` the secret? I end up having to go like literally 1 mile an hour because it feels like the truck is going to shake and rattle apart. Yes, I've tried going fast too and it was not a good experience, to say the least. I have stock shocks. Maybe a stupid question but does upgrading shocks really make that much difference on washboard?
Driving 100`s on Washboard Roads (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter badlander
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Stock shocks work well on 100s. But, if they're worn out, well... washboards might be the best way to highlight what a shock's job is.
Tire pressure makes a big difference too. If you're aired up to 35, you're going to feel it. Even with new shocks, rock hard tires will make the view through the windshield look like a Bigfoot video. But, at 20 psi... sooooo nice.
Tire pressure makes a big difference too. If you're aired up to 35, you're going to feel it. Even with new shocks, rock hard tires will make the view through the windshield look like a Bigfoot video. But, at 20 psi... sooooo nice.
Definitely need to upgrade shocks, I drive a lot on washboard and I can usually haul ass with a loaded 100 without feeling the truck is going to dismantle itself from the vibrations.
I agree with the post above. Plus: spring rates has something to do with it too. Are you running upgraded springs with worn out shocks?
I was out at Capital Reef NP in Utah this summer with my 2004 LX470. Decided to drive out to the Temple of the Sun and Temple of the Moon. Great locations, but the entire drive was a non-stop washboard. Very loud and harsh.
I tried everything. lowered my PSI to 20. I kept playing with the suspension settings. I would try speeding up and slowing down to maybe try and find that sweet spot. No luck. It rattled the crap out of my vehicle. The little cover of my tail hitch receiver popped off and was lost. There are now rattles in the car that were never there before. I swear I aged my car more in that one day than in its entire life.
I tried everything. lowered my PSI to 20. I kept playing with the suspension settings. I would try speeding up and slowing down to maybe try and find that sweet spot. No luck. It rattled the crap out of my vehicle. The little cover of my tail hitch receiver popped off and was lost. There are now rattles in the car that were never there before. I swear I aged my car more in that one day than in its entire life.
Yes. The shock/spring system is really important, if one is worn or not tuned correctly it will feel pretty bad.
There's a reason trophy trucks and offroad racers spend so much time tuning and testing their suspension... If you are really interested, the best way to go would be to find a local offroad shop that will do some custom tuning for you, this will require some fancy adjustable shocks (king, icon, radflo)
Bomar
SILVER Star
100s h8 mud, 100s hate, hate, h8 washboard! I have been in search of better washboard performance for a number of years.
First shocks back in 2008 were OME. Went to Fox shocks after that with SPC front UCAs, and tried some different valving also. Now have Icon 2.5" remote reservoirs stage 3 with adjusters. The Foxes were a little better on washboard, and the Icons better than the Foxes. But the bottom line is 100s h8 washboard. I run about 22psi offroad and while Icons handle light washboard pretty good, the nasty stuff you find in Death Valley, Hole in the Rock road south of Escalate, or many other places are rough on you and the 100. Is it the short travel of front IFS, is it that the beast weighs 7000 lbs plus?
I do know if you are running much less than 2.5" of droop you will be hating life on washboard.
Edit: The nasty washboard I see in those locations, runs around 3 inches from trough to peak of washboard.
First shocks back in 2008 were OME. Went to Fox shocks after that with SPC front UCAs, and tried some different valving also. Now have Icon 2.5" remote reservoirs stage 3 with adjusters. The Foxes were a little better on washboard, and the Icons better than the Foxes. But the bottom line is 100s h8 washboard. I run about 22psi offroad and while Icons handle light washboard pretty good, the nasty stuff you find in Death Valley, Hole in the Rock road south of Escalate, or many other places are rough on you and the 100. Is it the short travel of front IFS, is it that the beast weighs 7000 lbs plus?
I do know if you are running much less than 2.5" of droop you will be hating life on washboard.
Edit: The nasty washboard I see in those locations, runs around 3 inches from trough to peak of washboard.
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I have flushed my system. My levels are good. I am at 7 gradations when testing the system. I suspect I will buy new globes and bushings soon and see if things improve.
Yeah I think almost everyone hates washboard. I can't think of any vehicles I've been in that really handle washboard really well - like @Somebodyelse5 said, that's the specialty of purpose built trophy trucks.
New shocks and tires with a good sidewall are gonna be your best bet. The best setup I have is Icons and tires at 10psi. Makes it more comfortable but still annoying.
New shocks and tires with a good sidewall are gonna be your best bet. The best setup I have is Icons and tires at 10psi. Makes it more comfortable but still annoying.
Yeah - well not everyone can drop down to 10 PSI !!!! Hutchinsons are awesome for that reason alone.
Post some of your amazing pics to help me get through hump day
Fwiw - a few years ago drove about 20 miles in the wifes LX in the softest "comfort" setting at 25 psi on 20" wheels... Airing down was more time than it was worth but the ride wasn't half bad - didn't even chip a tooth! Ha.
bluecruiser
SILVER Star
22-25 psi is not really airing down much, in relation to changing the performance of the tire and the correlation to what you are feeling in the seat (especially on bad washboard). IMO, 14-16 lbs is more appropriate. Of course, tire type matters, as well.
As soon as I hit dirt, airing down is a priority. Saves me being super annoyed by all the rattling...
As soon as I hit dirt, airing down is a priority. Saves me being super annoyed by all the rattling...
I guess it's all perspective. I spent years in lifted CJs - really light trucks on 35" tires, solid axles and leaf springs. Washboards were unbelievably harsh - felt like being in the paint shaker at Home Depot, but also made it nearly impossible to steer or brake. By comparison, the 100 handles washboards damn well. Yeah... perspective.
I've got the ARB ones. Work fine, but I haven't used anything else for comparison.
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I use Trailhead Deflators. I like that you can ride while they deflate. I will usually put them on and drive about 5 minutes then stop and take them off. Saves a bit of time.
https://www.amazon.com/BILLET4X4-TRAILHEAD-Tire-Deflators-OFF-ROAD/dp/B005VF7M00
All good info in here. Ill add that shocks with reservoirs do much better on washboard. The idea is that the oil in the shocks gets hot quick on washboard and loses it's dampening effect due to loss of viscosity. A shock with a reservoir has a larger volume of oil and thus takes longer to overheat.
That's one of the many reasons I love my ahc. I tend to do really well on washboard with ~17psi. The ahc fluid reservoir helps prevent or slow heating of the oil.
That's one of the many reasons I love my ahc. I tend to do really well on washboard with ~17psi. The ahc fluid reservoir helps prevent or slow heating of the oil.
I run ToughDog 53mm fronts and 45mm adjustable rears (both foam cells). On washboard, I run 23psi (275/70/18 KO2) and find the ride "bearable". Speed tends to make them less jarring. Given the oversize nature of the bores in my shocks and that they are foam cells, they are significantly less prone to overheating than traditional shocks. I think of them as a little more than 60% of the way to a true remote shock setup. The thing I notice most about quality shocks is that when going through sweeping turns on corrugated gravel, the rig stays planted and doesn't want to skitter off the trail. Much more controlled.
