Driveshaft question (1 Viewer)

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Feb 25, 2002
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Anyone running a rear driveshaft from a 3rd gen 4Runner? I’m trying to confirm if it has a DC or not and length for my dual case ‘87 ext cab. Researching online it seems it will be the correct length. Also what’s thoughts on DC vs single on a dual case setup?
Thanks
 
I didn’t know this was an option. Tuning in for more info.
 
Anyone running a rear driveshaft from a 3rd gen 4Runner? I’m trying to confirm if it has a DC or not and length for my dual case ‘87 ext cab. Researching online it seems it will be the correct length. Also what’s thoughts on DC vs single on a dual case setup?
Thanks
I’m running one one my 85 xtra cab with dual cases. It’s from a 96 and has a DC joint. Dual cases don’t have anything to do with needing a DC. If the transfer output and pinion are not parallel you need to run a DC. When a ujoint is at an angle and spinning, the side that is not at a fixed speed changes speed throughout the rotation. That’s why the output shaft and pinion need to be parallel so the ds speed can change between the joints. It’s hard to explain
 
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If the transfer output and pinion are not parallel you need to run a DC.
Right, it's hard to explain. If your pinion is pointing at the TC, like would happen if you install new spring perches, you run a DC. Otherwise you don't need a DC.

Drive shaft lengths can be changed. Just find a driveline shop and they can retube and balance.
 
I understand about being parallel(single) vs if the pinion is pointed towards the transfer case(dc) sorry guess I should have said that, I’m more interested in a driveshaft that will bolt right in and which was a better choice for flex. I understand if I use the dc shaft I’m probably going to have to use ? degree shims to get the flange in a 90* to the shaft. I am uncertain if the 3 gen’s ever had a single vs the dc or both where available. But thanks to both of you for helping educate me, when I did my 62 many years ago due to the springs I had to actually shorten them.
Thanks again @chesshircat and @pappy
 
I assume since you have duals its a trail rig. I’d use the dc ds from the 4Runner if you can get it cheap it is a perfect fit on mine. I’m running 63’s so it has some lift and my axle is in the stock location. The dc shaft will accommodate drive lines that aren’t parallel
 
Yes it will be a trail rig but still streetable some. I have 63s with the rear pretty close to stock location. Did you shim yours any?
 
How long is a 3rd gen 4runner DC shaft? Collapsed or running length...whatever measurements you have.

Originally my dual cased 63's set up had a single UJ shaft with operating angles of 2° on the diff end and 7° on the T case end...you probably would have guessed the joint angles were bang on if you drove it or drove in it. The DC I built and swapped in made a 1% placebo difference(aka probably no difference) with a 2° pinion angle and 7° split over the DC joint. All with 5.29's and 35's.... so the shaft spins pretty fast.

Sometimes I wonder if people who claim parallel this diff pointing at the T case that have ever actually experienced a driveline vibe and actually knew what their angles were. In my situation, according to theory, I should have vibrated my teeth out with my single joint set up.

Although I'm sure part of the theory lends a hand to U joint life, etc.
 
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Quick internetting says 48.25 to 50" as a flange to flange measurement on a 3rd gen 4runner shaft with a DC.

I'd be interested to know the fully collapsed length of a 3rd gen 4runner DC. The 48.25 to 50" figure is sounding super close for a direct drop in shaft! I've already got my stuff built, but a OE spare shaft for cheap would be decent.

Also, quick internet said the DC flange pattern was 77x77mm but the typical flange pattern on a gear drive t case rear output is 60x60mm. Anyone know about the flange pattern?
 

See where we get to on that.

Allegedly there is atleast 2 different lengths of shafts depending on engine/trans/t case configuration.
 
Thanks @toyotaboy80 this is what I’ve found also so if one will bolt right in why not run one. I asked a buddy of mine and his is a dc shaft but hasn’t measured it yet.
 
I had my hands on a '99 4runner CV shaft the other day. It measured up at 48" collapsed. I dont know if it was a J shift, or multi mode truck.

That will not work in my dual T case and 63's swapped truck. It will bolt in and daily drive, and compress to max spring compression without pulling apart, but I'll KO the T case by 1/4" minimum if I jumped the truck. (Springs get shorter as they droop in the rear)

I havent plumb bobbed my rear axle center on 63's relative to OEM, but I think it is slightly forward of OEM center. I can check and compare to a frame diagram if you would like.

So... having said that, I dont know if this length 4rnr shaft would work for you. I would recommend getting your drooped length and running length and go from there. Depends how you set your diff center up!

The shaft I built for my truck has a 47 1/4" collapsed length and a 50" max extension length(before the seal hits the spline. Aftermarket slip stub. Would go to 53 before pulling apart) This shaft gives me about 1/2" before bottoming out with the suspension fully drooped out.

I know of a '96 4rnr with an auto. I'll measure one day.

Honestly its not very expensive to buy a good used shaft and have a shop shorten 1/2" and balance. Youre still ahead of the game. Also, finding a good used CV shaft 4rnr or not and retubing to exact length, also not that expensive. Just 1 more cut and weld and cost of tubing compared to a shorten.

If allegedly a MM shaft is shorter than what I measured by a full inch, I'd say thats right on the money for a direct drop in... for me. Again, depends where your 63's land the diff center. All I can say is measure 3x, and dont smack the T case if you jump the truck, lol
 
@toyotaboy80 so I don’t have it yet but found one that measures 47.5” collapsed not sure of the particulars of the donor yet but will get them. I still need to rotate my pinion up so don’t have a “true” measurement yet I do have the multiple position hangers and rear hangers aren’t welded yet so I’m still flexible with axle placement some. Thanks again for all your help with this somewhat mystery lol
 

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