Driveshaft clearance: Anyone know what the f*** is happening here?

[Beehanger]

Flipping the driveshaft will do nothing except maybe get you 1mm of clearance by having the skinny slip area really close to the crossmember. What flipping it will really do is have you extra confident in how it’s driving, couple too many $2 coors lights deep at the local sausage grinder and your buddies arguing their Honda CRV is the ultimate offroad machine and you showing them why it’s not! While you flex too far and jam that flipped driveshaft into the crossmember, but now the lip on the slip end is stuck on the crossmember so it shears off (if lucky); or finally pops itself free when you do a Grave Digger inspired sky wheelie and it slams itself back, shearing off the transfer case from the transmission.

That does sound pretty sweet. But I’d probably just figure out exactly WHY it’s rubbing and address it properly. I’m 2.3 whiskey mules deep though and shouldn’t be posting anyway, so take it at what it’s worth.


View attachment 3795887

I did some reading. I Threw it on just to see the clearance (took it off cause and wanted to read back here...) and....

I have about an inch of clearnace.... If I dont offroad it and use it just for snowy weather the next 2-3 months I dont think the joint will go launching off.

I plan on taking it easy until $$$ permit me to get a longer term solution, until then NO POTHOLES and NO WHEELING and definetly NO INTOXICATED BACKFLIPS for me :/

Its also dangerous for me to not have 4wd... I almost got in an accident driving home in 2wd the other day (picture me sliding down a steep as hill backwards after unseccesuflly getting speed to clear it..... I went to go work on a buddys 60 series and had to have a buddy come and tow strap me up the hill in his tundra. YEAH that happened last weekend LOL)

Gunna do some more reading.


Dan

 

[SNLC]

Right. U-joint angle is what I intended to say. Driveline angle will be roughly the same, but if your pinion is pointing a wonky direction you’ll be eating u-joints.

That’s why you change perches on the axle housing at the same time.

Nothing wrong with a c&t on a SuA either, I have done it. No caster wedges and much better to dial in caster.

Cheers

 

[Beehanger]

That’s why you change perches on the axle housing at the same time.

Nothing wrong with a c&t on a SuA either, I have done it. No caster wedges and much better to dial in caster.

Cheers

Is this something you could do in house at some point in the next couple months, or are you in *Builds* mode still?

Dan

 

[Skreddy]

An inch of clearance at the skid plate end is a lot. Put the shaft on and flex/droop the front passenger side of the axle as far as it will go. I doubt it’ll hit. I am betting all the original rubbing was only from moving it around without the engine so the trans/t-case wasn’t at the normal angle. If it does end up close, you could notch the crossmember lip a little, just don’t get too deep and compromise the structural integrity.

 

[NicksFJ40]

86,

 

[Beehanger]

For Posterity sake, flipping the driveshaft with my current setup worked and have had no issue. I'm sure there's a *better* way to do it, I have like an inch and a half of clearance and happy with it for now.

When it comes time to do hard wheeling/ drunken back flips ill have to reassess.

Thanks for the advice,
Dan

 

[OSS]

For Posterity sake, flipping the driveshaft with my current setup worked and have had no issue. I'm sure there's a *better* way to do it, I have like an inch and a half of clearance and happy with it for now.

When it comes time to do hard wheeling/ drunken back flips ill have to reassess.

Thanks for the advice,
Dan

The slip yoke will now be angled downwards, facilitating the grease inside it to migrate out - due to gravity. So keep it well lubed.

 

[mattressking]

The slip yoke will now be angled downwards, facilitating the grease inside it to migrate out - due to gravity. So keep it well lubed.

It'll be fine, high pressure grease in a 'sealed' cavity won't migrate anywhere when filled and the cap is in place on the shaft. A good example would be the early double cardan front shaft which has the slip yoke on the side of the 3rd.

 

[Beehanger]

It'll be fine, high pressure grease in a 'sealed' cavity won't migrate anywhere when filled and the cap is in place on the shaft. A good example would be the early double cardan front shaft which has the slip yoke on the side of the 3rd.

I added it until grease starting oozing out the ends of the U joint. hopefully didn't overdo it or break some sort of seal. The driveline shop had added some blueish green grease in there, but wasnt sure when to **stop** pumping.