Driver side, front end suspension clunk when turning - Video attached.

[GXO]

The adjustment is on the inside, not out. Having a loose bolt either way its deadly

 

[danmm7]

The adjustment is on the inside, not out. Having a loose bolt either way its deadly

So, given that all lower control arm bolts are now in spec (according to my torque wrench showing 103 ft/lbs), do i need to worry about doing alignment now or not?
Thanks!

 

[GXO]

Should be fine now, unless you have any play in the cam bolts or inner bushings, etc. Back to normal concerns regarding alignment. If it drives straight, tracks well, and wheel returns to center on turns, I think you should be fine.

 

[danmm7]

It drives perfectly fine and straight as an arrow.

It drove perfectly fine before i touched the bolts too, but i had the damn clunk at steering wheel turning. Now it's all quiet.

 

[Aloha Jen]

taco47001, you are THE MAN!!

I lifted the truck, grabbed my torque wrench, adjusted to 103 ft/lbs and went after the lower control arm bolts. On the driver side, the rear facing bolt was not tight enough. It took good 3-4 rounds with the wrench to get it to click. The front facing bolt was almost perfect. A bit adjustment.
Did the same thing on the passenger side. One of the bolts was not tight enough.

Test drove the truck - no more clunk!! Gone! Everything is quiet and smooth, like new. Lets hope this clunk does not return again. It's been bothering me for months.

Thank you!!

Mine (2009) does the exact same thing/sound while reversing and turning that your video shows. Anyone have a photo that identifies the lower control arm bolts that need to be tightened to 103 ft/lbs? I don't have the FSM. Thanks for any help.

 

[mercedeezel]

Mine (2009) does the exact same thing/sound while reversing and turning that your video shows. Anyone have a photo that identifies the lower control arm bolts that need to be tightened to 103 ft/lbs? I don't have the FSM. Thanks for any help.

Hi Jen, i believe the nut and bolt circled in red are the ones you want to check. I'm not sure of the torque specs - 100 vs 103 shouldn't make that much of a difference IMO. just don't let the ones labeled for cam/toe adjustment rotate so that you can keep your alignment.

 

[GXO]

Nah...bottom right. 160.

 

[mercedeezel]

Nah...bottom right. 160.

bottom right is for the lower ball joint/steering knuckle correct? OP reports tightening the control arm got rid of the noise

 

[taco47001]

Hi Jen, i believe the nut and bolt circled in red are the ones you want to check. I'm not sure of the torque specs - 100 vs 103 shouldn't make that much of a difference IMO. just don't let the ones labeled for cam/toe adjustment rotate so that you can keep your alignment.

View attachment 1324180

Yes, this is correct.

 

[GXO]

Wait....your cam bolts were loose?!?!

 

[Aloha Jen]

bottom right is for the lower ball joint/steering knuckle correct? OP reports tightening the control arm got rid of the noise

Whichever they are, I will have them all tightened to those torque numbers. Thanks for the diagram, it will be helpful.

 

[danmm7]

Wait....your cam bolts were loose?!?!

On mine, the nut circled in red on the RIGHT side of diagram above was not at 100 ft/lb. It was definitely not "loose", but it was clearly under 100 ft/lb, according to my torque wrench. The driver side needed more adjustment than the passenger side. Coincidentally, the clunk/pop was coming from the driver side before i adjusted the torque.

The bolt circled in red on the LEFT side of the diagram was almost at 100 ft/lb. Did not need much, if at all.

 

[wet sprocket]

Resurrecting an old thread here to mention that I had this same problem with my 200 series. The noise was making me crazy. The torque for my bolt and nut is 207ftlb and while they were “tight” from my last alignment, the shop definitely did not get them to spec. Torquing them initially made the exact same noise I heard when turning with wheels fully locked. Once torqued, the noise went away. Thanks for this thread!