drive shaft clunk (1 Viewer)

[axle167]

I've been reading up on the drive line clunk issue and have already done the shaft grease and change the hub flange.

However, the clunk still persist especially from the R to D to R. There seems to be a way to minimize the R to D to R clunk by adjusting my driving style. I.E. letting the car roll a bit in N and then shift to D or R.

So I decided to take a video while making the R to D to R shift with brake on. Does any know what this clunk is?? The video shows the rotation of the drive shaft at around 0:42.

 

[nissanh]

It's the famous front diff/CV/Axle-hub flange play. There are many thread on that.

Caused by
1) backlash play at ring gear and pinion (needs adjusting)
2) CV axle teeth to front hub flange play (remove the dust cover at the center of front hub to inspect this)
3) CV axle to side gears (inside the diff) play
4) Worn out U-joint (less likely)
5) Worn out bushing in the diff housing.

I do like you do.. just let it roll... but it is still annoying.

 

[axle167]

Yes it is annoying, but I can live with it.

My bigger worry is if this will cause further damage to the diff. Servicing the diff is not cheap here, but the risk of breaking hard parts is more$$$.

How did it go out of adjustment anyway? age and mileage?

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Yes it is annoying, but I can live with it.

My bigger worry is if this will cause further damage to the diff. Servicing the diff is not cheap here, but the risk of breaking hard parts is more$$$.

How did it go out of adjustment anyway? age and mileage?

Wear. Rubbing surfaces together for a long time wears. Further damage? more wear generally leads to more wear. I wouldn't be overly concerned. There isn't much you can do other than replace the worn parts. Guess what you have to do if the warn parts break?...replace the parts. For example, you won't replace the ring gear without the pinion, so, say the ring gear fails.. the pinion probably did too, and even if it's didn't, you'll replace it with the ring anyways. One gear worn won't mesh well with a fresh gear. Otherwise, the issues listed by @nissanh really won't lead to any chain reaction of failures.

 

[vishmuzty]

Check you front diff bushings, especially the front one with vertical bolt. The front diff mount use 3 elements -- a bushing sandwiched between 2 rubber overmolded washers -- to isolate vibration. As the rubber deteriorates, the diff moves up and down axially to the front mount bolt as the direction of the driveshaft torque reverses. This linear movement will cause rotational "slop" in the front driveshaft.

I was hearing a chronic "thud" noise whenever I transitioned from brake -> throttle, or when shifting from D -> R. I focused on driveshaft slip joints but further diagnostics indicated it was coming from front diff area.

Diagnostic: Engage parking brake and chock wheels, have someone in drivers seat with engine running and foot on brake shift between D -> R -> D. Watch diff movement at front mount (probably need to remove skid plate, or use inspection mirror and flashlight). Mine was moving about 1/4" and the the "thud" it made as the aluminum mount impacted the steel washer correlated to the vibration & frequency I was hearing.

I replaced all 3 front diff mounts a couple weeks ago and it's like a new truck! The front and the driver side lateral bushings were well worn, the rear bushing was actually fine.

 

[Cetus]

My dad's 100 is doing the same thing and I'm worried that mine is going down the same path. I only have the thud or clunk while in drive after I hit the gas pedal. How much are the parts to fix this? Is there a write up on replacing these parts?

 

[Comet]

Sub'd. New to me truck with the thud. Thanks for the info.

 

[vishmuzty]

There are some good DIY writeups on here, such as:
Front Diff Mount Change & SuperPro Bushing Review

I used a shop press on the driver side & rear bushings, their carriers unbolt from axle. I have a bushing press set with cups in a variety of diameters, cost me about $150 but pressed in & out many many bushings over the years. Something like this:
OEMTOOLS 27212 Manual Bushing Installation and Removal Tool Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6UC5KN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KqlbBb7EH5XDA

For the front bushing, also replace the top washer as the overmolded rubber was worn on mine. I got all my bushings from Febest for $80.

My tips for front bushing:
1) it’s integrated into diff cover, keep it in place. Remove other bushings and diff will lower allowing access to front bushing. Support diff with jack stand to keep load off front prop shaft.
2) use a hole saw to cut out rubber from bushing. Much easier & safer than burning. Don’t drill all the way through, top of aluminum mount is solid! If you see aluminum chips STOP DRILLING!
3) cut slit in bushing outer sleeve (now accessible with rubber gone), patiently bang it out. I was able to chistle outside of sleeve evenly around perimeter and walk it out.
4) clean & grease mount. Put new bushing in freezer before installing. Align with dots facing forward.
5) I used threaded rod and plates from my bushing press kit to seat bushing. Had to get a little creative but there was space to work with diff lowered.

Don’t be intimidated, it’s not rocket science. The right tools (and access to a shop press) make things much easier.