Thanks for the help!
Dreaded Oil pump seal Phillips head stripped
- Thread starter mtn2roady
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Thanks for the help!
Fj80oregon
GOLD Star
Try and tap the threads first, if that doesn’t work you will have to drill and tap the next size up. not sure you have enough room for a helicoil. The screws are M6x1.0 pitch I would buy a tap and try that first you would be surprised what a tap will clean up. Looks like you still have some threads back in there.
- Thread starter
- #3
thanks brother! I’m on it for a tap. So I just learned something here so I’ll post for the next guy. The cruiser yard kit with the Torx bolts is about 2 mm shorter than the original Phillips bolts. I used an old bolt as a test and there’s enough threads to lock it up with the cover but not with the shorter Torx bolts provided by cruiseryard. Would you still tap and/or helicoil?
Fj80oregon
GOLD Star
I would see if they engage after cleaning up the threads, the OEM screws are 13.5mm long I think. I bought some M6x1.0x14mm stainless Allen heads from the local ace hardware for like 3bucks. If your screws are to short might need to grab one longer one to make sure it grabs the threads farther back. Maybe stick a toothpick in with the cover on and mark it to make sure you won’t be bottomed out with the new longer screws.
My local Ace had longer screws when I did my. I would get longer screws
If you can’t find them locally you can order them from Bellmetric.com
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
I hate those screws
- Thread starter
- #7
Roger that! I’m headed to Ace for those 14mm bolts tomorrow and a tap. I didn’t realize how soft the aluminum was and just kept drilling
In that one hole I don't thing 1/2mm is going to make a difference.Roger that! I’m headed to Ace for those 14mm bolts tomorrow and a tap. I didn’t realize how soft the aluminum was and just kept drilling
Like @Fj80oregon said measure the hole with a toothpick and get the longest screw that will fit.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
Kind of a janky fix, but could you clean the hole really well, put some release agent on a longer bolt, thread it in, and then put some jbweld flexsteel or quicksteel two part metal epoxy product in to fill the gap and make more threads?
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Azca
If there is a harder way - I will find it...
Replace them all with Torx screws, removal in the future will be much easier.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
I vote for drilling all of them out and replacing them with the next size up. Those scews are too small!
- Thread starter
- #12
Keep the ideas flowing! After sleeping on it, I’m off to get M6-8 taps, longer M6 bolts. If there’s enough thread there, I’ll go with the longest bolt possible with Allen of Torx head and a little blue thread locker. I’ll measure and post here. If I have to drill out and tap and M7 is too small, I think M8 will be too big. Thinking of going SAE for that one bolt if needed to keep diameter small enough but big enough to get a new thread started. Appreciate all the responses. Who though Phillips on a block was a good idea?
- Thread starter
- #13
Some of these are really close to penetrating the casing and into the oil pan, I’d be worried about metal shards dropping behind the case. I guess I’m a little lucky (ha) as this one seems to have some thickness behind the thread bottom. I agree, these are way too small, especially with a Phillips head. I might tap just this one at M7 or 1/4 SAE but I’m definitely getting new heads for all other bolts.
Part of the problem is likely that the "phillips" head is JIS standard- slightly different. A JIS screwdriver will help with not stripping these little buggers.
Good luck!
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Some kind soul replaced the JIS (+) screws on one of mine with black oxide coated FH SHCS. And Loctited them in. I'm leaving them for the next owner.
FWIW, those black oxide fasteners were designed for industrial machine use, not automotive use. They should never be used for permanent repairs on a truck.
FWIW, those black oxide fasteners were designed for industrial machine use, not automotive use. They should never be used for permanent repairs on a truck.
- Thread starter
- #16
Thanks. Colorado oh, I ordered JIS Phillips specifically, I got all of them out fairly easily not this one. Then I hacked on it
IIRC there's ? ~22mm of depth (including cover) for the screws (double check hole depth with a hole gauge), so you could bump up the length of a replacement screw if the deeper threads are still good. You could also gently run a cleaning tap (non-cutting) into that hole by hand, should give you an idea how many threads are available. The large squarish hole not quite behind the messed up threaded hole is the (pressurized) oil passageway going from the pump to the oil filter, so you'd need to be very careful if tapping that hole IMO.
www.summitracing.com
IMHO you might first try a longer screw if you have some good deeper threads. This next part is controversial but IME using a LOW STRENGTH thread locker (usually purple, designed for small fasteners) with plated screws may help prevent loosening and can be removed later (you still will need a few good threads).
For a blind hole I put a couple drops of the Low Strength Purple thread locker into the hole then install the screw, excess will bubble up past the threads:
NOTE: This Demonstration video shows how to apply a Threadlocker. They're using Loctite 242 but I would not use that (blue) thread locker for the small oil pump screws (see link above for Low Strength).
Been discussed a lot in the past (and above) but FWIW and future reference, what many of us have done is find a bit that fits snugly into the JIS screws (test fitting a few different bits) before attempting to remove the JIS Cross Point (Japanese Industrial Standard) screws. I've used a few different #3 Phillips ACR (anti cam out) bits that fit well. Some ACR bits you may need to grind a little off the tip to allow the blades of the bit to fit deeper into the slots. To make it more confusing that JIS Cross Point Standard apparently has changed over the years (so maybe easier to find/test fit a few different bits to see which fits or can be modified).
rtstools.com
FWIW
Lang Tools 971 Lang Tools Thread Restorer Sets | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Lang Tools Thread Restorer Sets with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Tap and Die Kits at Summit Racing.
IMHO you might first try a longer screw if you have some good deeper threads. This next part is controversial but IME using a LOW STRENGTH thread locker (usually purple, designed for small fasteners) with plated screws may help prevent loosening and can be removed later (you still will need a few good threads).
For a blind hole I put a couple drops of the Low Strength Purple thread locker into the hole then install the screw, excess will bubble up past the threads:
NOTE: This Demonstration video shows how to apply a Threadlocker. They're using Loctite 242 but I would not use that (blue) thread locker for the small oil pump screws (see link above for Low Strength).
Been discussed a lot in the past (and above) but FWIW and future reference, what many of us have done is find a bit that fits snugly into the JIS screws (test fitting a few different bits) before attempting to remove the JIS Cross Point (Japanese Industrial Standard) screws. I've used a few different #3 Phillips ACR (anti cam out) bits that fit well. Some ACR bits you may need to grind a little off the tip to allow the blades of the bit to fit deeper into the slots. To make it more confusing that JIS Cross Point Standard apparently has changed over the years (so maybe easier to find/test fit a few different bits to see which fits or can be modified).
JIS vs Phillips screwdrivers and Where to buy a JIS screwdriver. | Helping you work smarter not harder
Most people don't know that there are multiple screw types that look like the traditional Phillips. The most popular of which is the JIS (Japanese industrial standard), to which the JIS screwdriver is made to the JIS B 4633 specification. The other is a pozidrive, but those are more commonly...
rtstools.com
FWIW
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Put a soldering iron against the screw heads for a couple minutes, until a touch of smoke appears and the lok-tite will release.
If that doesn't work sacrifice hex driver, you'll ruin the heat treat; hold it in the fastener with locking pliers and run a torch against the hex driver to heat the fastener. This is more agressive and the risk of fire is not to be ignored.
A small electric impact gun with the proper bit worked for me. 
Hornd
SILVER Star
I used a Pencil Torch then AeroKroil and JIS Bit in a Bosch Impact and they all Came Out and Quickly.
Heat should not be Underestimated here. Do Not be Afraid to heat them 2-3X The Difference in Temperatures of the Aluminum & Steel will Make them get Loose.
**Put Something over the Radiator if you have it Left in (I see you removed yours) - Cardboard Ok but not Great. Sheet of Masonite Ducktaped in would be Best.
Heat should not be Underestimated here. Do Not be Afraid to heat them 2-3X The Difference in Temperatures of the Aluminum & Steel will Make them get Loose.
**Put Something over the Radiator if you have it Left in (I see you removed yours) - Cardboard Ok but not Great. Sheet of Masonite Ducktaped in would be Best.
