Drag Link rubs against shock (1 Viewer)

[Nevinsj]

When I first discovered this in August I talked to Gaylon at CCOT and even though I had the drive train and tub already installed he told me the weight of the top w/glass, fenders, hood would bring it down enough to provide clearance. I'm not there yet, but have my doubts that would be enough weight. I'll let you know if it works.

 

[SD_rdcruzer]

I recently bought the HFS springs for my 40, and had heard of the shock rub problem.
I just bought the springs alone and then bought Bilstein 5125 shocks locally.
The shock boot just barely touches the drag link when level, and I figure this gives just over 1/4 inch clearance.
I've wheeled with it a few times and no rub issues yet.
Just my .02

 

[mano002]

Another Option is getting ford F250 shock towers, they outboard the upper end of the shock to get more clearance. I had to do this to mine after a man-a-fre SR and 3" lift springs.

 

[RedneckRacer21]

Our 4" man-a-fre lift kit's shocks rubbed badly. We were converting to PS anyway though so it wasn't an issue for long.. You would think the manufactures would address this issue in some way other than moving shock mounts.

 

[Nevinsj]

I agree, if the manufacturers are selling these products they should not rub, but I'll hold judgement until I get more weight on her and see if I gain clearance. I don't have a shock tower to cut off, unless I flip the shock.

 

[Poser]

I'm having the same rubbing issue with my 4” Safari Suspension kit from Man-A-Fre. It was already installed when I purchased the 40. I have the OME long travel shocks that come with the kit.(Model #?)


It's so tight I can't slip a index card through the gap, and there's a skid mark on the shock. The steering is also a little squirley when I hit a bump while in a turn (on pavement), almost like bump steer, straight line it's managable. I think the contact bewtween the shock and link is influencing my on road handling. I haven't checked the alignment.

Is the one of the better solutions to move the lower shocks outwards towards the knuckles? Switch not a narrower body shock?

I would bet that a 4 degree castor shim installed in the front would correct your steering manners. The vehicle should not have to be ‘manageable’ in a strait line; if your caster is not correct, which can occur when lift springs and new longer shackles are installed, the vehicle will have a tendency to wander, there are no ifs, ands or buts about it.


I have a difficult time buying the idea that the relay rod rubbing on the shock is causing your vehicle to behave as you are describing.

 

[Poser]

I agree, if the manufacturers are selling these products they should not rub, but I'll hold judgement until I get more weight on her and see if I gain clearance. I don't have a shock tower to cut off, unless I flip the shock.

Just outboard the mount on the axle as has been suggested a couple times in this thread now. You are not going to get enough weight on the suspension to compresses it enough to keep the steering rod away from the shock.

 

[wfd175]

I would bet that a 4 degree castor shim installed in the front would correct your steering manners. The vehicle should not have to be ‘manageable’ in a strait line; if your caster is not correct, which can occur when lift springs and new longer shackles are installed, the vehicle will have a tendency to wander, there are no ifs, ands or buts about it.


I have a difficult time buying the idea that the relay rod rubbing on the shock is causing your vehicle to behave as you are describing.

I'm taking it to the shop on Friday to get the alignment checked.

Can the shock tower be spaced out away from the frame with some alum or steel block? or is the tower more than just bolted on.

 

[Poser]

I'm taking it to the shop on Friday to get the alignment checked.

Can the shock tower be spaced out away from the frame with some alum or steel block? or is the tower more than just bolted on.

The OEM shock tower is hot-riveted to the frame.....

 

[Nevinsj]

I lower shock mount is already at the edge of the axle.

 

[SD_rdcruzer]

Maybe someone who has moved their lower shock mount can post up a picture to give you a better idea what they're talking about.

 

[Otterav]

Hey,
I had the same issue, I outboarded the shock mount. Still had the bump steer issues, due to the relay rod being so short. I replaced the steering box setup with a FJ60 P/S box. I also used some hysteer arms as well. I relocated the shock towers behind the fender mounts and moved the lower shock mounts to the spring plates. There is no easy short answer to your problem. My bump steer issue was pretty large and not easy to drive on the street, now I have no noticeable bump steer, I used Datin Fab hysteer arms and tie rods, and alot of fab work.
eric

 

[AdamKFarmer]

Is moving the bottom tab the only solution?

 

[65swb45]

I've wheeled the snot out of my rig for another eight years since I originally posted with the lower mount outboarded. No drag link issue. Should be a no-brainer.

 

[AdamKFarmer]

I've wheeled the snot out of my rig for another eight years since I originally posted with the lower mount outboarded. No drag link issue. Should be a no-brainer.

Can you throw up a pic? I added double sheer shock tabs and I really don't want to go through the hassle of moving it.