Dr Gil 1FZ-FE rebuild (1 Viewer)

[NLXTACY]

I understood all of that but he will achieve the opposite if it ain't broke don't fix it!!

OEM engine can go 300K (with HG+timing) overhauled engine will go much less and some time you get catastrophically failure without no apparent reason just after the costly procedure.

Gil has also threatened possibly going turbo. I’m sure that’s a variable.

 

[davidp14]

My kind of post. You guys are learnin me new stuff every day!

Sub'd

 

[ccslider]

I like the detail in this thread but why would you not just buy a short block?

 

[cruiserfj45]

Its still cheaper to build and a block that has gone through the heat cycles and is not green is a better block. Its like stress relieving the metal.

 

[Dr Gil]

@Dr Gil why did you decide on complete overhauling ? 112K? Its a young engine

i understand doing HG and while you are there doing Timing and every possible oil seal ? when engine is out on the table?

112K is just what was reported. I got this motor 3rd hand. So who knows really what the accurate miles are. A big surprise that Jacob uncovered is that this motor was likely already rebuilt 1x before I got it. There was a "warranty void if removed tag" attached to the motor. Then when Jacob disassembled the bottom end it was discovered that this motor probably ran low on oil for a bit and the bearings hit the crank. As per the Master 80's Guru Robbie, his opinion is rebuild from the bottom up. It's already apart, so I may as well follow his advice, get it done right and have "Peace of mind"

The extra $3000 will be very cheap compared to my regret if the bottom end gives out before the top end does.

 

[Dr Gil]

Engines that are well kept can go 300k, this one obviously has some issues from the picture. If Robbie is giving his input and the owner is willing to do it right, I think a rebuilt engine can be done better than factory....

My current stock motor has 353K on it. My Blackstone oil analysis shows I have less than average metal deposits. I'll take care of this rebuilt motor just as good as my current, so why not expect 300-500K on this new rebuild?

 

[scottryana]

I think you may have misunderstood my post. I said this engine with 112k miles that looks like it was neglected wouldn't make it to 300k, but a nicely rebuilt engine could be as good or better than what came out of the LC factory.

My current stock motor has 353K on it. My Blackstone oil analysis shows I have less than average metal deposits. I'll take care of this rebuilt motor just as good as my current, so why not expect 300-500K on this new rebuild?

 

[Dr Gil]

I think you may have misunderstood my post. I said this engine with 112k miles that looks like it was neglected wouldn't make it to 300k, but a nicely rebuilt engine could be as good or better than what came out of the LC factory.

Totally agree with you. Just emphasizing your point with my own experience.

 

[LS1FJ40]

**** it! It’s only money!

I love builds like this! It’s going to be so freaking clean. I can’t wait to see it when it’s done.

Man I wish I had the $$ to do this...

 

[Desert Dino]

@Dr Gil are you going to switch engines immediately when the new one is ready?

 

[Howard705]

112K is just what was reported. I got this motor 3rd hand. So who knows really what the accurate miles are. A big surprise that Jacob uncovered is that this motor was likely already rebuilt 1x before I got it. There was a "warranty void if removed tag" attached to the motor. Then when Jacob disassembled the bottom end it was discovered that this motor probably ran low on oil for a bit and the bearings hit the crank. As per the Master 80's Guru Robbie, his opinion is rebuild from the bottom up. It's already apart, so I may as well follow his advice, get it done right and have "Peace of mind"

The extra $3000 will be very cheap compared to my regret if the bottom end gives out before the top end does.

GREAT Pics. Any pics of the Piston skirts?

Any Idea where the reman came from or what parts were used in this? Any or all from Toyota? Would be a good indicator of how well they are built.

 

[Dr Gil]

@Dr Gil are you going to switch engines immediately when the new one is ready?

Yes, the plan is get notice from Jacob when it's done. Drive my current vehicle up to him and leave with him for a week. He'll take some of the components off my current motor and add them to the rebuilt and then install the rebuilt motor into my truck, and I'll come pick up my truck with the new rebuild installed and be happy as a pig in slop!!

 

[pkelly72]

Great thread. I did nearly the same thing but the engine (about 100k miles) I had appeared to be in better shape. Mechanic said it looked like new when he opened it.

Looking forward to the build.

 

[Qball]

112K is just what was reported. I got this motor 3rd hand. So who knows really what the accurate miles are. A big surprise that Jacob uncovered is that this motor was likely already rebuilt 1x before I got it. There was a "warranty void if removed tag" attached to the motor. Then when Jacob disassembled the bottom end it was discovered that this motor probably ran low on oil for a bit and the bearings hit the crank. As per the Master 80's Guru Robbie, his opinion is rebuild from the bottom up. It's already apart, so I may as well follow his advice, get it done right and have "Peace of mind"

The extra $3000 will be very cheap compared to my regret if the bottom end gives out before the top end does.

Any progress on the rebuild?

 

[BILT4ME]

Just my $0.02 worth:

The "strange pitting" in the bearings shown in the first few pics are typical of engines that sit for a long time and particularly if the oil was not changed prior to that sitting. That is referred to as "acid etching" in the bearings and is caused by moisture and other acids in the oil from sitting and not going through heat cycles for an extended time.

This is the exact same reason you should change the oil in your lawnmower just before you store it for the winter. The condensation cycles from heating and cooling allow the moisture to collect and mixing with the chemicals in the oil from combustion cause them to attack the bearings. I would also guess that cylinder #4 was on the intake stroke when it was last shut down and sat for YEARS in the sun where it would go through dew point twice per day and the moisture would collect in the cylinder, then drip down into the oil and make it all have issues.

This is one of the reasons I state that "Dis-use on a car is worse than mis-use." Even though it has low mileage, it has other issues that demand a rebuild.

Good Luck Dr. Gil! This is a great way to make it all stay around a LONG time if you have the resources to make it happen!

 

[Dr Gil]

Any progress on the rebuild?

Last I heard the head was at the machine shop and should be finished. Thank you to @socallove for donating a couple of good condition cam shafts that were needed. If the camshafts don't need any work Jacob (@cruiserfj45) will start putting it all together and should have a finished motor by the end of February.

Turns out this "low mileage motor" was not in such great shape as the "claimed low mileage". So I'm no worse off getting a motor from a junkyard and rebuilding it from the bottom up. But it was disappointing to find that out. But now I know that I'll have a reliable motor rebuilt from the bottom up with full inspection of the parts.

 

[cruiserfj45]

I know it's been a long time but the machine shop finished the motor last week and I have an appt with the Dr this Friday to began the swap. Yota1 Performance did the long block build. They are very experienced with the 1FZ and it appears they have done an excellent job. I will try to give better updates as the install progresses. We will be using Maxima break-in oil as per the recommendation of Yota1.

 

[NLXTACY]

Right on! Gil should we take the turbo truck to drop you off?

 

[cruiserfj45]

Right on! Gil should we take the turbo truck to drop you off?

That will rack up some miles, however I am letting him take my Camry back.