Dr Gil 1FZ-FE rebuild (1 Viewer)

[cruiserfj45]

I am starting this thread to document the rebuild of this engine for @Dr Gil. He wants to keep his 96 Cruiser running for as long as possible and felt is was time to get a fresher engine. His is still running strong but wanted to get ahead of if. He purchased an engine out of a 94 Cruiser that had been crashed and had it shipped to me in Fresno to be gone through and then when it is done he will bring his Cruiser up for me to swap his engine out. I have takes a few pictures but my phone is not always the greatest so hopefully most will be okay. This isn't a budget rebuild but I also trust Mr Toyota's building as far as bearings go over most machinists due to their extremely high tolerances. More details will come. So without further adieu here are pictures of tear down as well as measurements.

Connecting rod thrust clearance: Standard .0063-.0103 Max .0143
#1 .009
#2 .007
#3 .009
#4 .009
#5 .0075
#6 .008

Connecting Rod Oil Clearance: Standard .0013-.002 Max .0039
All 6 were .002

Crankshaft thrust clearance: Standard .0008-.0087 Max .0118
.0035 measured

Main Bearing oil clearance: Standard .0017-.0024 Max .0039
All 7 were .002

Cylinder bore diameter was measured in the Thrust direction and the axial direction and measured at the top, middle and bottom. To save my self from typing all those numbers I am going to say everything was within .002 of standard specification and I am allowed .008

Main bearing cap bolts: Standard .4271-.4331 Min .417
All were between .425-.427

The block and head will be taken to the machinist for further inspection.

 

[cruiserfj45]

The lower connecting rod bearings have some odd markings on them and some wear is seen but to the tough they feel smooth, none of the wear can be felt, just visible. The upper bearings are similar.

 

[cruiserfj45]

Same

 

[cruiserfj45]

Same

 

[cruiserfj45]

Lower main bearings are the same, some funny markings and number 4 shows wear but can not be felt. They are ordered left to right 1-7. The upper bearings are similar.

 

[cruiserfj45]

Cylinder pictures will be in order of 1-6 with the thrust side (drivers) first then switching sides to passenger side. Number 4 has some markings just like some of the bearings. There was some evidence of water in the engine but not much. I wonder if the engine was stored outside and condensation was allowed to get in but it's odd that the bearings got is as well.

 

[cruiserfj45]

thrust #6 non thrust #1-#4

 

[cruiserfj45]

Non thrust #5 and #6

 

[cruiserfj45]

One last picture. @powderpig What is your take on what you see? I have my ideas but I want to see what you thought as well.

 

[inkpot]

How many miles on 94 motor? We have had a bunch of motors OP en and it is always interesting to compare them.

 

[cruiserfj45]

Unknown. Dr Gil may know. There was a heat tag on the head and other evidence telling me its been off before, but the bottom end looks like it's never been off before.

 

[OGBeno]

One last picture. @powderpig What is your take on what you see? I have my ideas but I want to see what you thought as well.

View attachment 1848692

You might want to email or call Robbie directly. I don't think he ever comes on MUD anymore.

 

[Dr Gil]

Unknown. Dr Gil may know. There was a heat tag on the head and other evidence telling me its been off before, but the bottom end looks like it's never been off before.

Can't confirm this, but was told 112,000

 

[powderpig]

Jacob got a ahold of me. In looking at these photo's, IMHO this will need a full rebuild. Your rod and main bearings show signs of coolant in the oil(the pitting, you may not feel it, but that is not good), Also some of them ran with no oil at one point(bright shiny marking), the bearing hit the crank and scrubbed the bearings. The cylinder head show signs of combustion talking from 5-6, as well slightly between 4-5. Could not see the top of the block that well. The cylinder bores are shot, too much scratching and polishing. As well as it looks like #4 has some etching from coolant or maybe water sitting in the cylinder.
Since it is tore down, rebuild it fully. bore it out 1mm, install new toyota pistons/rings, have the head and block milled to get rid of coolant etching. (up to .010 is fine and will not mess with emissions as some may think). If you do not trust your machine shop, then do not take it to them. If you have the time, have them do the machine work, and rebuild it your self. If you can not or will not and do not trust you machine shop, send it here, I will take care of it for you.
I may or may not follow this thread. Jacob you have my contact info.
I would not put this together with any of the pistons, rings or bearings you have shown on this thread.
Good luck with your choices.
Robbie

 

[cruiserfj45]

Thank you for your input, it is what I was also thinking. This engine had a bit of a hard life for the mileage we were told.

 

[COYS]

Jacob got a ahold of me. In looking at these photo's, IMHO this will need a full rebuild. Your rod and main bearings show signs of coolant in the oil(the pitting, you may not feel it, but that is not good), Also some of them ran with no oil at one point(bright shiny marking), the bearing hit the crank and scrubbed the bearings. The cylinder head show signs of combustion talking from 5-6, as well slightly between 4-5. Could not see the top of the block that well. The cylinder bores are shot, too much scratching and polishing. As well as it looks like #4 has some etching from coolant or maybe water sitting in the cylinder.
Since it is tore down, rebuild it fully. bore it out 1mm, install new toyota pistons/rings, have the head and block milled to get rid of coolant etching. (up to .010 is fine and will not mess with emissions as some may think). If you do not trust your machine shop, then do not take it to them. If you have the time, have them do the machine work, and rebuild it your self. If you can not or will not and do not trust you machine shop, send it here, I will take care of it for you.
I may or may not follow this thread. Jacob you have my contact info.
I would not put this together with any of the pistons, rings or bearings you have shown on this thread.
Good luck with your choices.
Robbie

What's the best way to reach you for 80 business? Thanks!

 

[Desert Dino]

Can't confirm this, but was told 112,000

@Dr Gil why did you decide on complete overhauling ? 112K? Its a young engine

i understand doing HG and while you are there doing Timing and every possible oil seal ? when engine is out on the table?

 

[NLXTACY]

He wants it to last forever. It’s also his DD. So he bought a low mileage used engine to rebuild so that the total downtime was minimal.

 

[Desert Dino]

He wants it to last forever. It’s also his DD. So he bought a low mileage used engine to rebuild so that the total downtime was minimal.

I understood all of that but he will achieve the opposite if it ain't broke don't fix it!!

OEM engine can go 300K (with HG+timing) overhauled engine will go much less and some time you get catastrophically failure without no apparent reason just after the costly procedure.

 

[scottryana]

Engines that are well kept can go 300k, this one obviously has some issues from the picture. If Robbie is giving his input and the owner is willing to do it right, I think a rebuilt engine can be done better than factory....

I understood all of that but he will achieve the opposite if it ain't broke don't fix it!!

OEM engine can go 300K (with HG+timing) overhauled engine will go much less and some time you get catastrophically failure without no apparent reason just after the costly procedure.