Door Lock Actuator Replacement (2 Viewers)

[gregnash]

I have feeling that when most are wrestling out the actuator assembly that the breather pops off and most have no idea it came off. If you are one of the few that find it randomly (bottom of door, pops outside door skin, etc.) most look at it with the "WTF is this?" look. Mine kept popping off on my drivers door and so I left it off, months later with no issues (thus far).

 

[gregnash]

Ok I can't seem to find where it is but wanted to double-check with the group...

For the rear hatch actuator motor, this is the same as the Front Passenger motor, correct? Last couple days there has been a storm in that is keeping temps cool. Of course, no lock/alarm issues with the cooler temps. With the way that I park (both at home and at work) the rear hatch catches afternoon sun directly. So this is making me believe this may be the "heat" culprit for the motors.


Nevermind I did find it a few pages back and I was correct, it is passenger side door actuator fits the rear hatch. Weather is cool again today and so far no issues with keyfob/manual door unlocking setting off the alarm. Seeing as everyone uses that appropriate year Camry motor module for their trucks, I am thinking I may grab one Aisin and one "cheap" model and replace the front passenger and the rear hatch. Kinda do a bit of an experiment to see if this fixes the issue AND to see how long the "cheap" model lasts over the Aisin.

 

[vanillahip]

Just completed the motor-exchange repairs on 3 doors. First one took about 3.5 hours, the next 2 about 60 minutes each. I went super slow as I tend to break stuff. Thank you to all contributors to this thread. I would have never figured this out let alone attempted this without your help!
I used the motors from Ebay seller mopselectric ( 4X FC-280 Motors with Collar - Car Door Lock and Mirror Motors - FC-280PT-22125 ) since there were several succesful repairs using their motors. The price was $21.95 for 4 motors. They are working great in my '99 LX470. I did super-glue mine back together but I wonder if it's needed since they are supported somewhat when placed back into the assembly. Better safe than sorry though!

 

[xXsnowXx]

Just completed the motor-exchange repairs on 3 doors. First one took about 3.5 hours, the next 2 about 60 minutes each. I went super slow as I tend to break stuff. Thank you to all contributors to this thread. I would have never figured this out let alone attempted this without your help!
I used the motors from Ebay seller mopselectric ( 4X FC-280 Motors with Collar - Car Door Lock and Mirror Motors - FC-280PT-22125 ) since there were several succesful repairs using their motors. The price was $21.95 for 4 motors. They are working great in my '99 LX470. I did super-glue mine back together but I wonder if it's needed since they are supported somewhat when placed back into the assembly. Better safe than sorry though!

Great job. I did my front two a while back. Kept having issues with the passenger. I think it is finally working correctly. After getting in there so many times, I feel like I could do one in 20 minutes now. As for the super-glue, I used a zip tie the first time. When I got back in there to figure out the problem, the zip tie had failed (slid out of position, thus loose). So I used JB weld the next time, assuming that would be a more secure option. It ended up failing too. Went with two better placed zip ties the next time and it seems to be better now.

Just a reminder to anyone thinking about doing this, confirm which motors you need first. Based on another post for a 2004 LC, I thought I needed the round ones, no sleeve, but when I got in there I needed the flat ones with no sleeve. It was easy to fix with a dremel, but an extra step in the process.

 

[TheLCProject]

I did super-glue mine back together but I wonder if it's needed since they are supported somewhat when placed back into the assembly. Better safe than sorry though!

Yes, it is needed, otherwise the gear on the motor will skip and make the most awful sound.

 

[Rayzorbak]

Will these motors work for rear hatch? That one gets me because I cannot mechanically unlock it with the key.

 

[vanillahip]

Will these motors work for rear hatch? That one gets me because I cannot mechanically unlock it with the key.

Haven't done my hatch yet, but yes the motor is the same. If you choose to buy the whole assembly it's the same as the front passenger door (I think). But the motors themselves are the same in all 5 locations.

 

[maxamillion2345]

Just did this, same motor, easier than the doors by a lot.

 

[maxamillion2345]

On my 99 Land Cruiser I used these on all 5 doors. Glued them back together with 1 min epoxy but you have to work fast.

 

[gregnash]

Haven't done my hatch yet, but yes the motor is the same. If you choose to buy the whole assembly it's the same as the front passenger door (I think). But the motors themselves are the same in all 5 locations.

This is correct... Drivers side front/rear are same... Passenger side front/rear and tailgate are same

 

[ouzo12]

I originally super glued it together but someone on here mentioned that theirs broke open after six months. Sounds like epoxy is the way to go

 

[xXsnowXx]

I originally super glued it together but someone on here mentioned that theirs broke open after six months. Sounds like epoxy is the way to go

I used epoxy that eventually broke loose (after maybe a month). It is possible I didn't prep the surface well enough. Either way I went with two properly placed zip ties this time and so far so good.

 

[Beto Cruiser]

So what is the consensus on adhesive method? I'd prefer a non-zip tie method, if possible. My motors are coming in from China in about a week.

 

[maxamillion2345]

I cracked the worst of mine open to confirm what I needed before ordering parts and then used some one minute epoxy going back together. Used it between the two halves and then on the outside I smeared it along the seam. When my motors came in that was the hardest one to get apart. So the rest of them received the same.

 

[ouzo12]

I ended up going with plastic epoxy and then zip tied for insurance.

Please be careful on the back door accuators. The fronts are pretty straight forward to assemble but the rears need to be put together with an extra step placing a square piece between the actuator and lock.

I did this wrong and got a door stuck closed. 180 dollar mechanic visit mistake on my end.

 

[campinglexus]

Hi all,
You got to love the internet and the ih8mud forum. Thanks to all of the contributions I successfully repaired my 2004 Lexus LX470 rear hatch actuator. Mine was getting slower and intermittent in operation until it would only lock NOT unlock. This is a Real problem with the cargo barrier in etc while camping. Of course my small Mabuchi electric lock motor was worn. MY Lexus had motors without the brass collar so the motor I ordered was the wrong type. Thanks to this forum I successfully rebuilt my Mabuchi motor with the new bell housing from the motor I had received (via Ebay). Glued and reinstalled. as additional insurance I have also installed an emergency pull wire to allow me to activate the rear hatch if I have a future lock actuator failure. Idea for this came from this forum. Thankyou to all for the great advice.

 

[robgv]

I ended up going with plastic epoxy and then zip tied for insurance.

Please be careful on the back door accuators. The fronts are pretty straight forward to assemble but the rears need to be put together with an extra step placing a square piece between the actuator and lock.

I did this wrong and got a door stuck closed. 180 dollar mechanic visit mistake on my end.

I'm replacing my right rear passenger door (after successfully replacing my driver's front door) and now IT IS STUCK CLOSED. What's this square piece between the actuator and lock you are referring to? Is this piece inside of the plastic clamshell piece? I can't open my RR door and am so frustrated. Does anyone have tips on how to open the door? Luckily I did not install my door trim/card, so I can see the actuator and my window is rolled down.

Need help!

 

[robgv]

I'm replacing my right rear passenger door (after successfully replacing my driver's front door) and now IT IS STUCK CLOSED. What's this square piece between the actuator and lock you are referring to? Is this piece inside of the plastic clamshell piece? I can't open my RR door and am so frustrated. Does anyone have tips on how to open the door? Luckily I did not install my door trim/card, so I can see the actuator and my window is rolled down.

Need help!

all good I figured it out =) ill send a pic later

 

[ouzo12]

I'm replacing my right rear passenger door (after successfully replacing my driver's front door) and now IT IS STUCK CLOSED. What's this square piece between the actuator and lock you are referring to? Is this piece inside of the plastic clamshell piece? I can't open my RR door and am so frustrated. Does anyone have tips on how to open the door? Luckily I did not install my door trim/card, so I can see the actuator and my window is rolled down.

Need help!

Yeah, I had to open up the clam shell to get to the actuators. Once opened, there is a small white piece that attaches the actuator to the mechanism that moves the lock which falls out since its held in place by being sandwiched between those 2 pieces.

Unfortunately, I took mine to a shop for removal and they said they messed around with the lock mechanism to get it to open. sorry I dont have further details.

 

[SoCal Dan]

I'm replacing my right rear passenger door (after successfully replacing my driver's front door) and now IT IS STUCK CLOSED. What's this square piece between the actuator and lock you are referring to? Is this piece inside of the plastic clamshell piece? I can't open my RR door and am so frustrated. Does anyone have tips on how to open the door? Luckily I did not install my door trim/card, so I can see the actuator and my window is rolled down.

Need help!

I literally just went through this yesterday. I suspect you figured out the same thing I did: with the interior door trim/card off you can still open the door. You'll need to sit inside the truck and remove the two bolts holding on the exterior door handle.

Next, you'll need to stand outside the truck and finesse the door handle so it's just dangling by the metal rod (attached by the notorious yellow plastic clip). Grab a hairdryer or heat gun and heat up the area where the rod meets the yellow plastic clip. After a minute or two of heat put on some gloves and remove the rod from the yellow plastic clip. The exterior door handle should be detached from the truck.

Now grab a long screwdriver with a "slotted" (aka non-phillips) head. Stand outside the truck and look through the hole where the exterior door handle would be. You'll see where the rod connects to the lock mechanism, and just behind it is a little gap in the latch housing. Stick the screwdriver in that gap, press down, and it should pop the door open.