Door Lock Actuator Replacement (2 Viewers)

[robgv]

I literally just went through this yesterday. I suspect you figured out the same thing I did: with the interior door trim/card off you can still open the door. You'll need to sit inside the truck and remove the two bolts holding on the exterior door handle.

Next, you'll need to stand outside the truck and finesse the door handle so it's just dangling by the metal rod (attached by the notorious yellow plastic clip). Grab a hairdryer or heat gun and heat up the area where the rod meets the yellow plastic clip. After a minute or two of heat put on some gloves and remove the rod from the yellow plastic clip. The exterior door handle should be detached from the truck.

Now grab a long screwdriver with a "slotted" (aka non-phillips) head. Stand outside the truck and look through the hole where the exterior door handle would be. You'll see where the rod connects to the lock mechanism, and just behind it is a little gap in the latch housing. Stick the screwdriver in that gap, press down, and it should pop the door open.

I didn’t have to do any of that. I ripped off the plastic cover that is held on by one screw by ripping it off from the inside of the truck. There is a door lock “hook” that is behind the T-shaped piece that pivots. This “hook” piece looks like a stamped part, I was able to push down and towards the inside of the car with a looong nose pliers and it finally opened.
Then I walked away and said OK I’m keeping this car hahah

 

[SoCal Dan]

I'll add my tips for this job:
One of the hardest parts of the job (for me, anyway) was disconnecting the wiring from the actuator. The attached picture shows where I inserted a small flat head screwdriver. Align the screwdriver so it's approximately parallel with the wires, then lightly press the screwdriver handle towards the wires while pulling the connector from the actuator case.

2-3 minutes with a hair dryer did a great job at allowing the rods that connect to the door handle to pop out. Don't burn yourself.

To crack open the actuator cases, I left them in the sun on a hot day (95 degrees) for about 30 minutes, pried on it with a couple of small flat blade screwdrivers until I was able to wedge the screwdriver in between the two halves of the case, and then put it back in the sun (with the screwdriver stuck in the opening I created) for another 30 minutes. My hope was that the strain created by having the screwdriver stuck in there, combined with the heat of the sun plus a little time, weakened the rest of the bonding inside the case. That seemed to do the trick- I didn't have any unwanted breakage when I opened the rest of the case.

The Amazon motors I used gave a satisfying "click" when I popped them on to the two electrical connectors.

I used clear Gorilla glue on the actuator cases. I had to re-open one that I screwed up, and the case opened much easier than I expected. I'm concerned the Gorilla glue won't hold up; we'll see.

Two small c-clamps from Harbor Freight were perfect to keep the cases closed while waiting for the glue to set.

Things got much easier for me after I finished the first door. Hang in there.

 

[gregnash]

Yeah I think that is going to be the biggest issue, finding a good enough epoxy for plastics that will bond the two halves back together just as strong as original if not stronger.

I, like many others, used zipties to hold the casing back together afterwards and have not had any issued since. I am thinking this next time I may try some stronger adhesive electrical tape after using an epoxy bonding agent. From watching videos on Project Farm on youtube, one of the best epoxy's he found was good old standard JB Weld.

 

[robgv]

Here's a video I made showing how to open your rear doors from the inside! I made the mistake of re-installing the actuator assembly incorrectly the first time, because I didn't pay attention or take any photos. Hope this helps someone else in the future!

 

[70 FJ40]

Trying to contribute to this thread since it has been so helpful to me. 2002 LX470, 248k miles. Front driver and rear passenger locks did not like to fully actuate using remote or tailgate keyhole mechanism. This behavior only exhibited in hot weather. Right now they actually work fine. But I took the opportunity to work on it now--I have better patience for this sort of thing when it's cool out and no bugs.



Reading the thread, I honestly wanted to replace my whole mechanism. Yes, the motor is the issue, but my logic is that buying an authentic Aisin assembly lasted 15 years (symptoms started back in 2017) so it should last another...15? 10? Even if it only lasts another 5 that would be great. Bit the bullet and got DS Front assembly for $126 and PS Rear for $90. Time is money and I'm ok with that price.



Everything with the install went just fine except a little bit of the yellow clip for the PS Rear was brittle and snapped off. Enough material was there for me to just use a tiny zip tie to hold the clip against the rod. It was the "cam", or "curvy part with the bump" that hugs the rod which broke.

For the DS Front, definitely absolutely recommend removing the handle as it provided the necessary access to the pink clip that connects to the lock cylinder. I don't think I could have done it otherwise. Access to the rearward two screws is achieved once the handle rod is disconnected (not the cadmium plated lock cylinder rod). Access to the forward screw is trivial. Removing the handle also allows access to view and or manipulate the two snap in plugs on the annoying white plastic guide plate. Or verifying the window guide track has been reinstalled correctly...etc etc. Just do it!

After accomplishing the DS Front, the PS Rear seemed so easy. There is only one metal arm, no lock cylinder, no annoying white plastic guide plate (integral tube instead), and the whole assembly can be removed from a big cutout just to the left. 2.5hrs versus 50 minutes for this first timer.

I recommend checking actuation and closing/opening doors before resealing the plastic and buttoning up the door. Oh and that reminds me, I used a utility knife to cut through the thick tar like sealant. Gently pulling the plastic and cutting through the tar made it quick, avoided tearing the plastic, and allowed for some tar to be on both surfaces for resealing. I suspect my winter conditions allowed for this cutting... maybe it's just plain goopy when hot out.

If you have the cash, I highly recommend remove and replace.

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Thanks for the advice here. Where did you get the mechanisms?

 

[Beto Cruiser]

Thanks for the advice here. Where did you get the mechanisms?

I bought 5 of these: Car Door Lock Actuator Motor FC-280PT-22125 Mabuchi with Collar FC280 Mirror | eBay

Worked great. early 2002 LX

edit: Just noticed that you were asking about the full actuator mechanism. My bad.

 

[70 FJ40]

Thanks for the reply @Beto Cruiser Still trying decide which way to go. My Driver's door has been a problem for a couple years now but only in the heat. It mostly stays in the garage. And it's only bead when there is intense heat for several hours. It was parked outside for a few days this last week while out of town on vacation and it became a problem not only on the driver's door but the back hatch as well. The only way to open the back at that point was to climb over the seat and dig through all the luggage to get to the interior handle. Doh!

Thought I'd see what the price difference would come to between the 2 ways before deciding. If the first one has lasted 17 to 19 years doesn't seem so bad to spend a $100 or for another good part. Worried if I replace motors I'll end up regretting not replacing the whole unit. Usually I'd rather spend some money and have reliability over saving money. That's why we drive a Land Cruiser after all.

 

[Beto Cruiser]

Thanks for the reply @Beto Cruiser Still trying decide which way to go. My Driver's door has been a problem for a couple years now but only in the heat. It mostly stays in the garage. And it's only bead when there is intense heat for several hours. It was parked outside for a few days this last week while out of town on vacation and it became a problem not only on the driver's door but the back hatch as well. The only way to open the back at that point was to climb over the seat and dig through all the luggage to get to the interior handle. Doh!

Thought I'd see what the price difference would come to between the 2 ways before deciding. If the first one has lasted 17 to 19 years doesn't seem so bad to spend a $100 or for another good part. Worried if I replace motors I'll end up regretting not replacing the whole unit. Usually I'd rather spend some money and have reliability over saving money. That's why we drive a Land Cruiser after all.

Replacing the door motors is pretty easy, especially after the first. Replacing the tailgate motor is even easier. This thread has a good write up Rear hatch lock actuator repair

if you want to "test the waters" on the motor replacement option, try the tailgate and if it works for you, try the doors (especially since the tailgate seems to be one of your main bad actors). The doors involve a few more steps to remove the actuator, but after that it is all the same. One note, shipping from the link I provided in my first post took ~2 months. I think that there are some motors on amazon, but they were a bit more expensive and I wasn't in a rush.

Final thought, the only other moving parts in the actuator are the plastic gears. My gears looked fine after 18 years and 220k miles, so it wouldn't be necessary to change out the entire actuators.

 

[Chuychanga]

I was stuck without a master key because my door locks wouldn't operate consistently enough to go through the programming cycle. I thought I was going to have to replace at least a couple of the motors or the whole assembly itself until I learned in this thread that the same programming cycle works by manually locking/unlocking the driver door. That got my new master key remote working and the door locks work consistently now with the remote, but still spotty with the interior lock switches. Not sure why, but don't really care to replace anything now that I have a working remote.

 

[70 FJ40]

Well. Just bought a bunch of $5 motors from eBay so I guess I'll try that first. Thanks again for the link.

 

[70 FJ40]

Good logic @Beto Cruiser. Pretty much the conclusion I came to as well. I'm not in a huge hurry. Kind of wonder if it will be an easier job to do in cool weather anyway.

 

[Beto Cruiser]

Good luck! Cooler weather will probably make it easier (cleaner) to remove the vapor barrier on the doors.

I should also mention that my new motors work like champs. After getting them all in I kept pressing lock-unlock-lock-unlock... over and over feeling like I was testing fate and winning every time.

 

[OwnerCS]

Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread. All but one actuator has failed. I might as well do them all. Since I replaced the driver door window regulator and motor last night, I might as well dive in on the first actuator motor replacement tonight.

In case I tear this up I might be looking into.


Left Hand
AISIN DLT-081 Door Lock Assembly replaces IMC AISIN PT Auto Warehouse Worldpac DLT-081 PDLA-401 Toyota Lexus 69040-60080 69040-60081 and is perfect for replacement or a performance upgrade.

Right Hand
AISIN DLT-008 Door Lock Assembly replaces NAPA Dorman AISIN IMC Worldpac DLT-008 DLT008 931-403 Toyota Scion Lexus 69030-42230 69030-06200 69030-0C050

 

[gregnash]

Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread. All but one actuator has failed. I might as well do them all. Since I replaced the driver door window regulator and motor last night, I might as well dive in on the first actuator motor replacement tonight.

In case I tear this up I might be looking into.


Left Hand
AISIN DLT-081 Door Lock Assembly replaces IMC AISIN PT Auto Warehouse Worldpac DLT-081 PDLA-401 Toyota Lexus 69040-60080 69040-60081 and is perfect for replacement or a performance upgrade.

Right Hand
AISIN DLT-008 Door Lock Assembly replaces NAPA Dorman AISIN IMC Worldpac DLT-008 DLT008 931-403 Toyota Scion Lexus 69030-42230 69030-06200 69030-0C050

Nice find!!!
Do yourself a favor and pull the outer handle off and clean the door lock cylinder with some good 3-n-1 clean/lube and then get some Electronics cleaner spray and clean the sensor while you have it off.
I did this to my drivers side over the weekend and knock on wood it has been great since and not giving me any issues!! No locks randomly wigging out, no locking when the truck starts, no setting the alarm off when I try to unlock via fob or key. So yeah, if it seriously was that (I replaced that motor months ago) easy I feel stupid now with how many times I have had that door apart and not actually going to that length while I was in there.

 

[riskovaniruslan]

Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread. All but one actuator has failed. I might as well do them all. Since I replaced the driver door window regulator and motor last night, I might as well dive in on the first actuator motor replacement tonight.

In case I tear this up I might be looking into.


Left Hand
AISIN DLT-081 Door Lock Assembly replaces IMC AISIN PT Auto Warehouse Worldpac DLT-081 PDLA-401 Toyota Lexus 69040-60080 69040-60081 and is perfect for replacement or a performance upgrade.

Right Hand
AISIN DLT-008 Door Lock Assembly replaces NAPA Dorman AISIN IMC Worldpac DLT-008 DLT008 931-403 Toyota Scion Lexus 69030-42230 69030-06200 69030-0C050

Can anyone please confirm if these are the correct door actuators for a 100 series (2000) Toyota Land Cruiser?

Also, which one should I purchase for the rear hatch? (I need to replace all 5 since I got to AZ last week and they all failed at once!)
I'm a bit confused since the part numbers are all different and want to confirm which one's I should order to avoid dealing with returns and whatnot.

2000 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 4.7L V8 Door Lock Actuator | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

DS:
AISIN DLT081 {#6904060080, 6904060081}
AISIN DLT102 {#6906060060, 6906060061, 6906060062}

PS:
AISIN DLT091 {#6903060080, 6903060081}
AISIN DLT078 {#6905060060, 6905060061, 6905060062}

Thanks in advance for the help!

 

[gregnash]

For rear hatch you want to use the PS door actuator assembly.

 

[riskovaniruslan]

For rear hatch you want to use the PS door actuator assembly.

Thanks! On rock auto they make a distinction between front passenger and rear passenger...is there a difference or is it the same thing? so for the rear hatch should I buy the FR or RR?

if you hit the link there's four unique ones (below)

DS:
FL - AISIN DLT081 {#6904060080, 6904060081}
RL - AISIN DLT102 {#6906060060, 6906060061, 6906060062}

PS:
FR - AISIN DLT091 {#6903060080, 6903060081}
RR - AISIN DLT078 {#6905060060, 6905060061, 6905060062}

Thank you!

 

[gregnash]

Since it is a sensored door I believe you want the front PS door. Not 100% on that, it is somewhere in the midst of the 30+ pages though.

 

[riskovaniruslan]

Since it is a sensored door I believe you want the front PS door. Not 100% on that, it is somewhere in the midst of the 30+ pages though.

Did some searching around and confirmed from a couple different sources that for the rear hatch you need the FRONT PASSENGER actuator for replacement.

Thanks again for all the help! much apprecaited!

 

[riskovaniruslan]

Did some searching around and confirmed from a couple different sources that for the rear hatch you need the FRONT PASSENGER actuator for replacement.

Thanks again for all the help! much apprecaited!

UPDATE: Front Passenger actuator DID NOT fit the rear hatch. I guess it's a completely separate part. Not able to find it on rock auto so having to order through the dealer, unfortunately.