Door Lock Actuator Replacement (18 Viewers)

[vjr021]

Look for the actuators for a camry

 

[NorCalFJ100]

Hey does anyone know if these actuators can be replaced WITHOUT removing the exterior door handle? Long story...but I'd like to leave them intact. Although it does seem easiest to remove them, I agree...but my situation I can't. Thanks!!!

 

[vjr021]

I really don't see how you can get around it.

I've done two now, and can't imagine how it would be done.

I'd be curious if anyone else has any ideas.

 

[FJC]

It can be done without removing the exterior door handles.

See post #191, there is a good picture of the clip. I was able to just reach in and unsnap and slide up. You then push the rod back thru. Once you figure out how it unsnaps and rotates its easier. Access is tight so you are going by feel. I think the first time I put my phone in and snapped some pics to get the other side. Probabaly a better picture of the clip in a post by landcruiserphil early in thread.

On everything I did I found a hairdryer to warm up the plasticparts helpful in making more plyable and unclip easier.....way eeasieer.

 

[NorCalFJ100]

It can be done without removing the exterior door handles.

See post #191, there is a good picture of the clip. I was able to just reach in and unsnap and slide up. You then push the rod back thru. Once you figure out how it unsnaps and rotates its easier. Access is tight so you are going by feel. I think the first time I put my phone in and snapped some pics to get the other side. Probabaly a better picture of the clip in a post by landcruiserphil early in thread.

On everything I did I found a hairdryer to warm up the plasticparts helpful in making more plyable and unclip easier.....way eeasieer.

Hey thank you very much for the information!! Much appreciated!!!!!!!!

 

[Detailx]

Ok the betting windows are now open. I did the same as @TXSunDevil and purchased both the collared and non-collared motors. So which will it be?!? I have a 2001 Land Cruiser and hopefully will be diving in tomorrow for the answer. (This eBay seller had both so they came together.)

What type end up working for your 2001 LC?

 

[arthbkins]

I just did the tailgate on my 2003 LX470.
The motor in there was the short one with brass collar. These on ebay:
4X FC-280 Motors with Collar - Car Door Lock and Mirror Motors - FC-280PT-22125 | eBay
So I assume that's the same motor I'll find in the other ones once I get around to doing them.
About 12 minutes in the toaster oven at 175 degrees made the assembly easy to pry open.

 

[NorCalFJ100]

Hi everyone, in case it helps someone I just did my drivers side door. 2006 LC and it was the flat shaft without the brass collar. Overall it was pretty easy once I figured out how to get the white plastic plate off which guides the door latch/lock cables (partially broke it.)

Baked it at 350 for about 7 min.

My door lock would fail in the summer heat as with most people...otherwise it would always work. Once I got the new motor in there I was surprised at how significant the lock sounds, obviously what it was probably like when it was new! Haha.

Thanks for all the helpful tips!!

 

[mikeyd]

How do you safely separate the rear door clam shells? The white colored actuator arm must be removed first before prying open the clamshell to replace the motor. On the front assembly, the white actuator arm comes out the other side and does not interfere.

I stopped working on this Sunday, after seeing the rears were different than the fronts (which I replaced two weekends ago). I didn't have time to search this thread until today - and I didn't see much, if anything, on the rears.

I don't want to break the white arm trying to pop it off before I know how the whole thing comes apart.

 

[NorCalFJ100]

How do you safely separate the rear door clam shells? The white colored actuator arm must be removed first before prying open the clamshell to replace the motor. On the front assembly, the white actuator arm comes out the other side and does not interfere.

I stopped working on this Sunday, after seeing the rears were different than the fronts (which I replaced two weekends ago). I didn't have time to search this thread until today - and I didn't see much, if anything, on the rears.

I don't want to break the white arm trying to pop it off before I know how the whole thing comes apart.

You do not need to take off the white arm. You just need to bake it in the oven and use a thin tipped flat head screwdriver...Start slow and try it in the oven for 5 minutes at 350...then pop back in as needed. I was able to pry mine open on one side and then slide the screwdriver around it to fully open.

 

[Detailx]

Working on changing the door lock motor and this fell out. Does anyone know what it is? Its soft rubber.. passenger side front door

 

[Detailx]

I knocked this small rubber "hose" off with my hands while removing the door lock assembly to install new lock motors.

Where does it go?

This small rubber thing

• mikeyd
• Jun 26, 2017

This small rubber thing fell off inside the door while I was removing the door lock assembly...

I had the same problem. Found the attached picture on an Ebay ad. You can see where the rubber boot is connected to the actuator.

 

[mikeyd]

Great, thanks

 

[Driftwood 26]

I had the normal symptoms of a door lock actuator gone bad (many threads on this) so I went about investigating this issue over the weekend. I was hoping I could find something that could be remedied by a little bit of cleaning / maintenance, but that wasn't the case.

Removal of the door trim wasn't bad, but getting the door lock assembly out was a bit of a pain (kept getting my arm hair stuck in the tar-like adhesive for the plastic sheeting). Once I got the lock assembly out, I detached the actuator (held on by 3 screws). The actuator itself is not a solenoid as some other threads state. I popped off the cover.....it is actually a small DC motor.

Actuator:

View attachment 255362

Actuator exploded:

View attachment 255363

I plugged in the actuator (without the cover and not attached to the lock assembly) to the electrical connector and operated the door lock switch. I could see the motor spinning strongly the first few presses of the switch, but then it would slowly die down. I tried cleaning all the contacts / moving parts, but nothing improved. Since I realized I had to replace the motor, I decided to take it apart and investigate. I immediately saw that the graphite brushes were almost completely disintegrated....not sure if this was the only problem.

So, in an ideal world I could just replace this little $8 hobby motor. The really unfortunate thing is that not even the actuator itself is sold by itself. I tried every avenue for parts searching and can only find the actuator sold with the entire lock assembly (lock mechanism, cables, actuator). This is really annoying since the actuator is a separate component and bolts (screws) on to the assembly. I didn't want to go the junk yard route since who knows how long the used actuator would last.

So I did find the lock assembly cheapest on CruiserParts.net for $169. I called my Lexus dealership to get a price on the assembly just for my own edification. They sell the assembly for $330 and would probably charge $500 total for them to do the job.

A few cents worth of graphite in the brushes of a motor results in a potential $500 repair.

If anyone ever finds a way of just buying the actuator and not the whole assembly, I would love to hear how you did it.
View attachment 255362View attachment 255363

Awesome analysis! I'm having same issue on '02. Thanks!

 

[Nverlost]

Here's one for everyone... I ordered this from Stylin' Trucks (P/N: T464912) Its from a 1999 Toyota Camry...

It appears in everyday to be exactly what ours would be BUT if you look, there are screws holding the clamshells together... My hope is that they aren't ALSO glued or sealed.

This could be awesome for anyone that is nervous about breaking the case on their actuator.

The only thing that has to be changed, once you open it you have to swap out the lever (grey in pic, and white on ours) this appears very easy to do once it is open..

Stylin' Trucks had it cheaper @ $21

My local NAPA is selling them for $80

Once it comes in I will give full report!

View attachment 1337876

I wound up buying one of these on eBay and it worked great. I used a heat gun, on high setting, for approx. 1 minute around the perimeter of each housing. They came apart fairly easy with a little prying via a screwdriver. All I did was swap out the entire motor and white plastic screw rod, keeping with the old housing for the reinstall. Also, I just used hot glue for gluing the clams back together. Thanks for the tip on this!

 

[DUBVEE]

Thank you everyone for this thread, i'm back to power locks. Dorman part number 746-654 is a screw together actuator for drivers side front. I think 746-655 is passenger side front. Thanks again.

 

[cmassa]

How many times are others having to replace the motors? I've done all of my doors 3 times, including the rear in my 2003. Although here in Northern California it's high 90's and 100's all summer and well into the fall so that may be part of the problem. I replaced all of the motors last winter and the rear passenger door is already making a loud buzzing noise. It still works but I'm sure it will stop working soon (that's what they've done before). At least I'm pretty fast at it now. It's generally about 20 minutes per door now. Since I've done it so often, I zip tie the shells back together instead of gluing them.

Chris

 

[hoser]

I replaced my DS motor once. A year later the actuator motor casing blew apart and I couldn't really put it back together properly with the residual glue and all. I replaced the entire actuator assembly and door locking mechanism with an OE Aisin unit.... I think it was $120 or so... cheaper than Toyota.

 

[ad27326]

Working on changing the door lock motor and this fell out. Does anyone know what it is? Its soft rubber.. passenger side front door

View attachment 1502147

Here is where that small black pieced came from! Mine fell of to, I was looking at Camry Actuators and ran across this pic. Same act. as my LC, Im going to order one and give it a try. Why are some having to reprogram their remotes? Thanks!

1997-01 Toyota Camry Door Lock Actuator Front Passenger Side - 1ADLA00074 at 1A Auto.com

 

[ad27326]

Anyone had this happen while trying to open up the actuator? Apparently the teeth are now broken, any solution for this? Is there another actuator out there? Thanks

After looking at it, it seems this piece just pops out, maybe not broken after all. I may be able to swap this piece into the new Camry actuator I bought!!