Door Lock Actuator Replacement (1 Viewer)

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Just did all 4 doors today. Used a hair dryer on the clamshells and they came right open. I used a screwdriver as a punch to get the metal bar out of the plastic clip.

Somehow on the rear doors I managed to put the actuator together wrong on both sides. Closed the doors and couldn't open them. Eventually found the bar that opens the door with a screwdriver. Mild panic moment thinking I had closed the doors and wouldn't be able to re open them.
 
Just did all 4 doors today. Used a hair dryer on the clamshells and they came right open. I used a screwdriver as a punch to get the metal bar out of the plastic clip.

Somehow on the rear doors I managed to put the actuator together wrong on both sides. Closed the doors and couldn't open them. Eventually found the bar that opens the door with a screwdriver. Mild panic moment thinking I had closed the doors and wouldn't be able to re open them.

I'm jealous. I had to bake mine at 225 for half an hour before they let loose. I was surprised.
 
Any idea which part you would use for the liftgate/rear? Would it be the drivers side or passenger side? Thanks!
Finally replacing my liftgate actuator and am able to answer my own question here - the liftgate uses a passenger side actuator. So if you need to do all 5 doors, order 3 passenger side, 2 driver side.
 
Since we have both a UZJ and a Lexus in the family, I've researched this issue thoroughly. I think this piece of information may be of some value:

Instead of messing with the shaft collars and crap, just swap the caps. That's where the worn brushes are anyway. Much easier.
 
So what are the odds some of the linkage just came off the motor, and not that the motor is cooked on the rear passenger side of an 04 135k mile LX?
 
The good / important

1. Thank you to everyone involved in this.
2. It worked like a champ.
3. 2X FC-280 w/ Short D Flat Shaft - Car Door Lock and Mirror Auto Motor FC280PC | eBay was the item
4. It went into an 04 LX470 perfectly, the worm gear went straight on, it all went back together easily.

So the bad / hard
1. The window switch panel was a royal PITA to get out. the clip / spring is damned near impossible to locate, wound up prying the unit out with some harbor freight panel tools.. worked great, no breakage.
2. The yellow clip thing is the devil. Couldn't figure out how to unhook it right, nothing in the FSM about it either. Just muscled it and beat on it.
3. Had to hit the clamshell with a heat gun, and drive a pry/knife thing into it with a hammer like I was slying dracula himself to get the damned thing open.

Took about 2.5 hours to get everything apart (including getting the heat gun, swearing at the clip, and pouring over the FSM and thread to figure out how some stuff went together. Took about 15 minutes to get it all back together.
 
Thanks so much for the information on this thread mudders. I did my front driver's door today. It took about 1-2 hours. I could do it again in 30 minutes. I have a 2002 LC and I purchased both types of motors off of Ebay. It ended up being the motor that required the brass collar. I had to google a you-tube video just to get the hang of removing the actuator. Once I saw that it was easy. I thought the hardest part was removing the door lock trim. You need to pull it out away from the door then spread the outside so it slips over a tab. I have tried to add some pics hoping that it helps someone down the road.


You can see the black tab that holds the beige trim down. The trim tab needs to be picked up gently to fit over the tab. I used a screwdriver wrapped in paper. Next time I am buying a harbor freight upholstery tool. I did not glue it back together. I looked at the screws and determined they will hold it together. I did wrap it with one zip tie. Hopefully it will work long term. If not it will be easy to pull out and glue.
 
Ok the betting windows are now open. I did the same as @TXSunDevil and purchased both the collared and non-collared motors. So which will it be?!? I have a 2001 Land Cruiser and hopefully will be diving in tomorrow for the answer. (This eBay seller had both so they came together.)

IMG_1809_zpsch7nqhyh.jpg
 
@TXSunDevil and purchased both the collared and non-collared motors. So which will it be?!? I have a 2001 Land Cruiser and hopefully will be diving in tomorrow for the answer. (This eBay seller had both so they came together.)

Perfect, 2001 LC as well, waiting patiently to see which motors I need to order for the best chance at a match...
 
I decided to take mine out today and take a look before ordering the motor. My '06 LC uses non-collared.

Update: That MOPS electric ebay company sends those motors out fast. Received them today and works perfectly. Great fix.
 
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I knocked this small rubber "hose" off with my hands while removing the door lock assembly to install new lock motors.

Where does it go?

 
I believe that goes onto one of the door handle "rods" IIRC...

I felt it before I knocked it loose. It seemed like it was hanging off the bottom of the actuator. But, if I was confident, I wouldn't be asking, so...
 
For the record - I just opened up my Passenger Front clamshell and my lock motor has the brass bushing style motor.

And, I'm installing new speakers while I have the door panel off too.
 
For the record - I just opened up my Passenger Front clamshell and my lock motor has the brass bushing style motor.

And, I'm installing new speakers while I have the door panel off too.

If your OEM speaker surrounds are rotted, and that's why you are putting new speakers, try rebuilding them.

Cost $20 for new surrounds.

I tried 2 different aftermarket speakers, before going back to the JBL.

They sounded the best.

The subwoofer is the same size as well.
 
I'm happy with the speakers I purchased, but I will keep the OEM speakers just in case.
 
Which speakers did you go with? I need to knock that out when I do my locks?

I bought this radio - Kenwood DPX702BH

You get $50 off if you also buy speakers, so I bought 2 pairs of these - Kenwood KFC-1665S

Radio: $180
Speakers: $80
Discount: -$50

I figured $30 for speakers was a decent deal. Since the OEM speakers are 17+ years old, these new ones should sound better.
 
Just a heads up. The link to the motor assemblies from Amazon shows them as out of stock.

Ordered the pieces from ebay (just the motors), was hoping to not have to pry open the plastic cases, but no such luck.
 
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