Door Lock Actuator Replacement (2 Viewers)
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It's crazy how many different motor types were used in these vehicles.
This sucks... After struggling to get everything out of the door, then snapping one of the tabs on the actuator trying to separate it, I then get it open to find out I have the flat shaft motor, NOT the one with the brass fitting like I ordered...
I hate leaving projects unfinished!!
I hate leaving projects unfinished!!
FYI...you can remove the brass collar and use a dremel tool to shave the shaft down. Worked great for me.
Damn it!!! Really... Why the hell didn't I think of that!!!! !@%!^&#%^&@$%&^!@
Here's one for everyone... I ordered this from Stylin' Trucks (P/N: T464912) Its from a 1999 Toyota Camry...
It appears in everyday to be exactly what ours would be BUT if you look, there are screws holding the clamshells together... My hope is that they aren't ALSO glued or sealed.
This could be awesome for anyone that is nervous about breaking the case on their actuator.
The only thing that has to be changed, once you open it you have to swap out the lever (grey in pic, and white on ours) this appears very easy to do once it is open..
Stylin' Trucks had it cheaper @ $21
My local NAPA is selling them for $80
Once it comes in I will give full report!
It appears in everyday to be exactly what ours would be BUT if you look, there are screws holding the clamshells together... My hope is that they aren't ALSO glued or sealed.
This could be awesome for anyone that is nervous about breaking the case on their actuator.
The only thing that has to be changed, once you open it you have to swap out the lever (grey in pic, and white on ours) this appears very easy to do once it is open..
Stylin' Trucks had it cheaper @ $21
My local NAPA is selling them for $80
Once it comes in I will give full report!
Funny I ordered the half shaft and when I opened it had the brass fitted shaft. Talk about Toyota playing games. If anyone is tackling this I suggest buying both motors.
Just finished changing out motors for four doors, 2003 LC. Nothing new to report but will reinforce the use of the hair dryer.
The hair dryer was key in getting the plastic parts like the white plastic wire guard unsnapped and the yellow and pink clips that hold the connecting rods in front doors. Seemed to soften up the plastic perfectly. Also used soften up the clam shells before prying them open, worked great, but patience is key
I did not need to remove door handles, only the window guide.
Great thread, thanks for all the tips.
The hair dryer was key in getting the plastic parts like the white plastic wire guard unsnapped and the yellow and pink clips that hold the connecting rods in front doors. Seemed to soften up the plastic perfectly. Also used soften up the clam shells before prying them open, worked great, but patience is key
I did not need to remove door handles, only the window guide.
Great thread, thanks for all the tips.
Can anyone help answer my question related to removing the lock actuator.
The question I posted is at link:
How to remove the lock assembly to change the motor from lock actuator
The question I posted is at link:
How to remove the lock assembly to change the motor from lock actuator
Unhook the plastic rod retainer connecting the lock assembly to the exterior door handle, unscrew the cable hold-down, then use a T30 Torx bit to remove the 3 bolts holding the entire latch assembly in the door. The actuator is easy to remove once the entire lock assembly is out.
I'm happy to report that I ordered this part from Amazon (but there are several other sites that carry it as well) and it worked! After removing each of the screws, I was able to separate the clamshell. I then used needle nosed pliers to pinch the tabs from the grey lever and replaced it with the white one from my 2000 LC. I put it back together, installed it and it worked perfectly. I had found the same parts (for Left and Right sides on PartsTrain.com (Parts T464912 and T464911) and order the remaining three. They had the lowest prices, $23.11 and $16.73 each. So fro about $75 you can replace all 4 actuators. You could also swap the motors only for about $25 but I didn't want to deal with gluing the clamshells, etc. since this was pretty easy and felt confident that the clamshells wouldn't pop open over time. Thanks for all the information!
Any idea which part you would use for the liftgate/rear? Would it be the drivers side or passenger side? Thanks!
Hey guys... I installed both my rear door actuators. Pretty easy once i got it figured out. Was doing my front passenger side and it was a bit more complicated. Figured out that it was easiest for me to removed the white plastic piece that attaches to the actuator motor assembly (the piece that holds the motor, gears, etc in the clamshell everyone bakes). While I was removing the wire that leads back to the door handle from this white plastic piece, I broke off about 1/4" of the wire. Two questions:
1. Do I need to replace that wire that runs back to the interior door handle since it is now a little shorter (it seems like I will)
2. Can I buy just that wire and if so, what is it called?
FYI its one of the two long wires in the left of the product image here: Amazon.com: Genuine Toyota 69304-0C010 Door Lock Sub-Assembly: Automotive
Thanks!
1. Do I need to replace that wire that runs back to the interior door handle since it is now a little shorter (it seems like I will)
2. Can I buy just that wire and if so, what is it called?
FYI its one of the two long wires in the left of the product image here: Amazon.com: Genuine Toyota 69304-0C010 Door Lock Sub-Assembly: Automotive
Thanks!
I believe it's called a door latch cable. They are specific to which door. The upper and lower cable are different part numbers usually. I knew someone who purchased one individually for a later year cruiser, so I know you can.
So the "stealership" says I can't buy just the cable and doesn't have a part for the cable that runs to the lock. I am pretty technically competent but new to this whole working on cars thing. How does one ascertain what/if the part number for that cable is? I looked on a few parts sites and no luck. I'll keep looking but any help would really be appreciated. Right now, Im toying with the idea of crimping something on the end of the cable and seeing if that works...
ALSO FWIW the stealership wanted $425!!!!!!!!!! For the whole actuator piece. I can't thank you guys enough for figuring out its just the motor. Praise be to ih8mud!
You can try oempartworld.com
I see the problem though. For 2008 and up you can buy the part separately but for earlier years they don't list it separately, they just show it in the diagram. You could maybe try the denso part for a sequoia and see if you could macgyver it.
I see the problem though. For 2008 and up you can buy the part separately but for earlier years they don't list it separately, they just show it in the diagram. You could maybe try the denso part for a sequoia and see if you could macgyver it.
Question, did you use x2 T464912 and x2 T464911 to do all four doors? Just wanted to make sure that the back doors are covered by these part numbers as well.
Front and rear use the same piece but you definitely need different pieces for drivers side and passenger side. I just completed this repair using the Camry actuators and can confirm that its a great idea to use ones with a screw and that the pieces are definitely side-specific. One last thing - and maybe this in mentioned earlier - but you'll need to open the new and existing actuator motor assemblies and swap the piece that runs from the actuator to the door lock cable (i.e. replace the grey one from the Camry with the white one in your LC).
FYI, for anyone looking to buy from Stylin' Trucks, I purchased this exact part number and was shipped a glued version, no screws. I'm guessing they have multiple manufacturers supplying the same part. Buyer beware, it may take some oven work
