Door Lock Actuator Replacement (4 Viewers)

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so I replaced all 5 door lock motors last year with the ones off ebay that were recommended. Worked like a charm.

However, now two of them have developed a loud QUACK (like a duck) every time I lock or unlock them.

Anyone had this happen? Did the epoxy fail on the casing and the gear is slipping or something? It's very loud.
 
so I replaced all 5 door lock motors last year with the ones off ebay that were recommended. Worked like a charm.

However, now two of them have developed a loud QUACK (like a duck) every time I lock or unlock them.

Anyone had this happen? Did the epoxy fail on the casing and the gear is slipping or something? It's very loud.
Yes, your cases have cracked open. I speak from experience. If you wait too long to fix them they’ll open far enough the teeth won’t engage.
 
My front passenger door locks just started acting up so I bought the eBay motors and also bought the entire actuator unit. This thread has been great with the different tips!
 
My front passenger door locks just started acting up so I bought the eBay motors and also bought the entire actuator unit. This thread has been great with the different tips!
Where did you find the “whole” unit? I could only find the rear… my local parts guy stated the front are discontinued?
 
Where did you find the “whole” unit? I could only find the rear… my local parts guy stated the front are discontinued?

I found it on eBay. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that they are genuine AISIN. My plan is to replace the actuator with the eBay actuator and then break into the broken one to see what type of motor is in it and replace and use as a backup. If I bought the wrong motors, it would be easy enough to get the correct motors with the correct shaft configuration.

 
I found it on eBay. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that they are genuine AISIN. My plan is to replace the actuator with the eBay actuator and then break into the broken one to see what type of motor is in it and replace and use as a backup. If I bought the wrong motors, it would be easy enough to get the correct motors with the correct shaft configuration.

Keep us posted I’m curious on how they work out for you. I’ve been struggling with broken locks for a while, my rear are replaced with ones I got from rock auto those only worked for a few years.
 
Just to add to the knowledge base, my 2005 LX470 (that looks to have the original actuator) has the D shaped shaft. Unfortunately, I bought the round shaft motors with the bushing initially but I also purchased the D shaped shaft motors just in case. It should be in tomorrow.
IMG_4302.jpeg


NBD right? Well, as I was inspecting the rest of the actuator, I noticed that one of the plastic cable stops broke. I figured, no big deal, I can probably get another cable from somewhere so I proceed to take off the cover to remove the cable only to find that 20 year plastic tabs do not like to flex anymore. The fortunate thing is that I already had a an entire actuator coming in (should be in tomorrow) so always having a backup plan pays off. But since the backup plan is now plan 1, I ordered another front right (passenger) actuator from Rockauto.com (arrives Thursday), in case the actuator coming tomorrow gets lost or is DOA. If I read correctly, the passenger front actuator is the same as the hatch actuator so it's good to have that handy, along with all kinds of backup motors.

Some lessons learned:
1. Be gentle with old plastic (and even if you are, and you buy it a drink first, they may still snap)
2. Always buy a back up actuator, in case something happens during the removal/install.
3. Get multiple motors in the D shaft and bushing shaft. You never know what you're going to get (and it is easy to return the wrong ones).
4. Heat up the white devil plastic bracket. Even with heating, it still cracked a little bit but not completely. I put some JB Weld on it while I wait for the actuators (front and back).
IMG_4299.jpeg
IMG_4303.jpeg



IMG_4304.jpeg

5. Be careful when cracking the actuator that houses the motor. The old plastic lip cracks easily (again, fixable with JB Weld)


IMG_4301.jpeg
 
Just to add to the knowledge base, my 2005 LX470 (that looks to have the original actuator) has the D shaped shaft. Unfortunately, I bought the round shaft motors with the bushing initially but I also purchased the D shaped shaft motors just in case. It should be in tomorrow.
View attachment 3591067

NBD right? Well, as I was inspecting the rest of the actuator, I noticed that one of the plastic cable stops broke. I figured, no big deal, I can probably get another cable from somewhere so I proceed to take off the cover to remove the cable only to find that 20 year plastic tabs do not like to flex anymore. The fortunate thing is that I already had a an entire actuator coming in (should be in tomorrow) so always having a backup plan pays off. But since the backup plan is now plan 1, I ordered another front right (passenger) actuator from Rockauto.com (arrives Thursday), in case the actuator coming tomorrow gets lost or is DOA. If I read correctly, the passenger front actuator is the same as the hatch actuator so it's good to have that handy, along with all kinds of backup motors.

Some lessons learned:
1. Be gentle with old plastic (and even if you are, and you buy it a drink first, they may still snap)
2. Always buy a back up actuator, in case something happens during the removal/install.
3. Get multiple motors in the D shaft and bushing shaft. You never know what you're going to get (and it is easy to return the wrong ones).
4. Heat up the white devil plastic bracket. Even with heating, it still cracked a little bit but not completely. I put some JB Weld on it while I wait for the actuators (front and back).
View attachment 3591088View attachment 3591089


View attachment 3591090
5. Be careful when cracking the actuator that houses the motor. The old plastic lip cracks easily (again, fixable with JB Weld)


View attachment 3591092
7. WD40 and heat on the handle door tabs makes it easier to unhook the yellow and orange plastic anchors.
IMG_4297.jpeg

8. Save everything from the broken parts. You never know when you'll need to scavenge it for a future fix. i'm going to replace the actuator motor in the original actuator and use that as a backup in case the other door locks start to fade.

9. Always have a backup rig. My Tacoma will get some attention again while the LX is out of commission. She's been jealous the past few months.
IMG_3861.jpeg
 
Bought the motors from Amazon then decided to just pony up for full replacememnt actuators. Obviously this cost more, but it took way less time, and now I'm good for another 20 years.
 
Bought the motors from Amazon then decided to just pony up for full replacememnt actuators. Obviously this cost more, but it took way less time, and now I'm good for another 20 years.

I totally agree with this which is why I bought the back up complete replacement actuator. You just never know what you're going to get when you start removing 20 year old plastic parts.
 
Bought the motors from Amazon then decided to just pony up for full replacememnt actuators. Obviously this cost more, but it took way less time, and now I'm good for another 20 years.
Yep I agree, time is money…tho I admire the guys who dive into projects like this. It really helps out the LC community.
Sadly it’s becoming increasingly difficult to find some of these parts
 
I totally agree with this which is why I bought the back up complete replacement actuator. You just never know what you're going to get when you start removing 20 year old plastic parts.
I find myself just eating it on the high-cost OEM parts because they might not be available soon. I coach myself with internal thoughts of "be glad you can even buy this part, new, OEM still."
 
Got the entire actuator today. Put it in the truck and was tested and good to go in about 20 minutes. Just remember to test the door lock and opening mechanism before you install the door card just in case you missed a step. Also, test the window to make sure there are no obstructions and that it is tracking on the window rails correctly. I was also watching a couple of YouTube videos and there is an eBay seller (Actuators Plus) that sells remanufactured actuators and offers a lifetime warranty (they were more expensive than new AISIN so didn't pursue it). It maybe an option for some.
 

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