Does this sound correct? (1 Viewer)

[allen_ajones]

I have read all the driveline vibration and noise posts. I had the "whirl" sound and vibration in the cab, slightly on the Steering wheel but mostly for the entire cab: seats shaking side to side" Wheel are balanced and new. New shocks and springs. New pads.


Took it to a driveline shop. Said my front differential was going because of the whirl noise. He replaced the the rear DS U-joints and now I got a "rumble" noise that is just unacceptable.

Question: why did replacing these u-joints create a new sound?

Also, I hear once a differential starts to go, it goes quickly.

Rumble noise = carrier bearing shot?
Rumble noise = pinion gear shot"



Final Question = What is the cost parts and labor to redo the front diff and why is it not the rear diff that went?

estimate our the door = $1100

 

[Bryan062087]

when my rear pinion bearings were bad, the noise was a wah-wah-wah. it kind of sounded like old propellor airplane. i dont think it was very rumble like. could you describe the "rumble" noise a little more?

i could be wrong but i do not think a bad diff would cause vibrations in the steering wheel.

when i had my pinion bearings redone, it cost around 700$

 

[allen_ajones]

when my rear pinion bearings were bad, the noise was a wah-wah-wah. it kind of sounded like old propellor airplane. i dont think it was very rumble like. could you describe the "rumble" noise a little more?

i could be wrong but i do not think a bad diff would cause vibrations in the steering wheel.

when i had my pinion bearings redone, it cost around 700$

So the ring and pinion gear were fine just the pinion bearing?

What about the 'carrier bearing"?

$700!!!!!!!

So what the "F" are they charging me for?

 

[allen_ajones]

when my rear pinion bearings were bad, the noise was a wah-wah-wah. it kind of sounded like old propellor airplane. i dont think it was very rumble like. could you describe the "rumble" noise a little more?

i could be wrong but i do not think a bad diff would cause vibrations in the steering wheel.

when i had my pinion bearings redone, it cost around 700$

Well rumble sounded right. But wah, wah sound could be it to.

 

[Romer]

On the shaft, did they replace both U Joints and balance the shaft? Did they put it back in the correct phase?

 

[allen_ajones]

On the shaft, did they replace both U Joints and balance the shaft? Did they put it back in the correct phase?

I assumed they knew which way they took it out (rear=in phase) but it back that way. As for balancing, I thought they did that anytime they pull a shaft.


Will ask tomorrow when I freaking got to waste going back over there.

 

[Romer]

Do you have the CDL switch, if so lock it and remove the drive shaft and tell us what you hear.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Allen,

A whole LOT of information would be good here. Things like is your truck stock? what is its history? Etc.

But the biggest thing is in describing the noise. It is easy to forget as the owner that we were not there when it started and when it started is a huge clue for us to suggest things. For instance if it has done it since you bought it then so be it - zero information. But if it started after the new brakes went on, or after a wheeling trip, or after a lift went on, those are important for you to tell us.

Informationally, an entire front differential from Toyota (Dan) is under $900 and it comes complete and setup. All you do is pull the axles out, install and bolt it together. For someone to go in and replace a few parts and give you back an old diff with a couple new parts for MORE money is kinda nutty. You could do your own front repack at the same time and you're about an hour's work from slapping in a new differential at that point.

DougM

 

[allen_ajones]

Allen,

A whole LOT of information would be good here. Things like is your truck stock? what is its history? Etc.

But the biggest thing is in describing the noise. It is easy to forget as the owner that we were not there when it started and when it started is a huge clue for us to suggest things. For instance if it has done it since you bought it then so be it - zero information. But if it started after the new brakes went on, or after a wheeling trip, or after a lift went on, those are important for you to tell us.

Informationally, an entire front differential from Toyota (Dan) is under $900 and it comes complete and setup. All you do is pull the axles out, install and bolt it together. For someone to go in and replace a few parts and give you back an old diff with a couple new parts for MORE money is kinda nutty. You could do your own front repack at the same time and you're about an hour's work from slapping in a new differential at that point.

DougM

ummm...yeah


That is way above my skill level. Is that $900 for just parts????

 

[allen_ajones]

Allen,

A whole LOT of information would be good here. Things like is your truck stock? what is its history? Etc.

Informationally, an entire front differential from Toyota (Dan) is under $900 and it comes complete and setup. All you do is pull the axles out, install and bolt it together. For someone to go in and replace a few parts and give you back an old diff with a couple new parts for MORE money is kinda nutty. You could do your own front repack at the same time and you're about an hour's work from slapping in a new differential at that point.

DougM

No lift as my signature line says. I think it has probably with in the last 6 months started the whirl noise but typically on when gas is being depressed, stops when I take my foot off gas. BUt then I have not much coast. I mean the rpms drop and it sounds like it is not downshifting but rather the sound you get from a manual when you let off the gas.

 

[allen_ajones]

Allen,

A whole LOT of information would be good here. Things like is your truck stock? what is its history? Etc.

DougM

Well, there was poop in the front diff when I bought in 2000. Also, it is stock except for longfields. OME replacement springs and new installed Monroe gas magnums.

Got a TJM bumper and a new air intake hose (TIC).

 

[allen_ajones]

not much coast.

I might have answered my own question. So, the entire parts setup is 900 for bearings, gears, seals, etc for a complete front Differential? How many hours labor?

 

[Romer]

Could be old grease in the splines of the shafts. There are 4 bolts per side to take the shaft out and its easy, but you need the CDL switch, do you have one!

You would be amazed on what you could do with the proper help. This is a big community with over 10,000 registered users. Say you buy all the parts from CDAN and then announce a pizza, beer and wheelpacking party at your house. In San Diego, your bound to have a few takers. Then you could try and do a lot of the work while others help you and guide you. Thats beer, Pizza, Cruiser Bonding and increasing your mechanical skills all in one shot.

I had a siezed engine in my FJ40 and another board member who I did not know at the time, had me bring it (tow) up to her garage and we and another person figured it out and fixed it in a few weekends. I did some of the work and paid for the Beer and food and now if I had too, I could do it myself.

 

[Romer]

I might have answered my own question. So, the entire parts setup is 900 for bearings, gears, seals, etc for a complete front Differential? How many hours labor?

If your doing the differntial, you might as well rebuild the seals and repack the grease as it is almost the same effort. It's about $1300 (Parts and Labor) to have a shop do the Front Axle rebuild or about $200 (parts) to do it your self. Probably about another 1-2 hours for a skilled mechanic to R&R the diff. Take a look at the Front Axle rebuild thread in the FAQ. With someone who has done this before, you could get it done in a long weekend.

 

[allen_ajones]

Could be old grease in the splines of the shafts. There are 4 bolts per side to take the shaft out and its easy, but you need the CDL switch, do you have one!

You would be amazed on what you could do with the proper help. This is a big community with over 10,000 registered users. Say you buy all the parts from CDAN and then announce a pizza, beer and wheelpacking party at your house. In San Diego, your bound to have a few takers. Then you could try and do a lot of the work while others help you and guide you. Thats beer, Pizza, Cruiser Bonding and increasing your mechanical skills all in one shot.

I had a siezed engine in my FJ40 and another board member who I did not know at the time, had me bring it (tow) up to her garage and we and another person figured it out and fixed it in a few weekends. I did some of the work and paid for the Beer and food and now if I had too, I could do it myself.

THe most I have done is a valve cover gasket with an old college buddy and we "f"ed it up and I had to pay someone to do it right. So, I kind of ditched the idea. Fixing my own stuff would be very cool. Alot oftime, I come on here to find out how much I am going to be spending. It gets old with a 13 yr. old rig that needs new parts to go another 10 years. But I kind of fell in love with the idea of dialing it in at some point....at least the driveline portion hopefully without needing to replace more parts in the process of unlimiting vibration and noise and generallu $hitty drivability..

 

[allen_ajones]

what doubly sucks is this is my only vehicle. :.<

 

[allen_ajones]

Allen,
Informationally, an entire front differential from Toyota (Dan) is under $900 and it comes complete and setup.
DougM

Does this complete and setup differential have preload on the bearings?

 

[FJ809496TLC]

Started having vibration after greasing the u joints. The LC were vibrating badly, you can feel it in the cab, in the steering wheel and sounded like grrrrrr. Picked up a whole set of u joints for front and rear driveshafts from the dealer and had both shaft balanced. The LC drives pretty good now with no vibration.

 

[landtank]

I'd check the phasing as well. Not only in or out but also 180* out. It could be phased properly but at 180* out it might be out of balance.

 

[allen_ajones]

I'd check the phasing as well. Not only in or out but also 180* out. It could be phased properly but at 180* out it might be out of balance.

You would think a driveline shop would know and have already done this.

I hate having to go back to places because they cannot get it right. Either way it sounds like my from ring and pinion gears and bearings are shot. The cheapest way to avoid costly repairs before they are need would be check what you said and also do the front u-joints and balance the shaft as well before I go to the Diff or should I do something else?