he must've used backwoods goop
Does this look like contaminated birf grease
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- #22
Yes,Valvoline Palladium. Thanks for the reminder on number of tubes.
I'll keep it in mind for next time.
he must've used backwoods goop
You're just trying to pad your post count to get to 10 grand
Actually, there are threads discussing this. All agree that Marlins seals are beefier and will hold up better in the minitrucks and older rigs. The 80 is a different animal and many who installed Marlin's seals are going back to OEM
Look at this thread https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/396682-birf-soup-using-marlin-axle-seals-confused.html
i'm wondering if the full time 4wd is the issue there.
Romer: Got to state that I am still very much a newbie and only have one front axle service to my name.
I also had some of the same concerns when I first looked at the Marlin Seals, they were definitely stiffer and the spring that is used is made of a solid wire where the OEM seals have a coiled spring that looks like it will allow for more off axis movement. FWIW I called Marlin Crawler and asked about these differences in design compared to the OEM 80 seals and was assured that they have had no problems with their seals in 80's.
Before I put my front axle back together I slid both seals on my high mileage axle shafts one at a time to see how they would fit; the Marlin seals fit very snugly and their lips seemed to be offset from the wear grooves. My concern was that the Marlin seals fit too tightly and might cause accelerated wear on the axle shaft. However when I moved the axle shafts (or the seals) a bit off axis the Marlin seal continued to seal, but with the OEM seal an air gap would open up very easily between the axle shaft and the lips of the seals. I'm also wondering how much worn spindle bushings add to the leakage problem from the axle shafts wobbling?? I replaced my bushings with the new bushing/bearing combo from CDan so maybe that will help?
Guess time will tell after we get more miles on the the Marlin seals, only 4000 miles so far on mine.
Thanks for the info.
I also had some of the same concerns when I first looked at the Marlin Seals, they were definitely stiffer and the spring that is used is made of a solid wire where the OEM seals have a coiled spring that looks like it will allow for more off axis movement. FWIW I called Marlin Crawler and asked about these differences in design compared to the OEM 80 seals and was assured that they have had no problems with their seals in 80's.
Before I put my front axle back together I slid both seals on my high mileage axle shafts one at a time to see how they would fit; the Marlin seals fit very snugly and their lips seemed to be offset from the wear grooves. My concern was that the Marlin seals fit too tightly and might cause accelerated wear on the axle shaft. However when I moved the axle shafts (or the seals) a bit off axis the Marlin seal continued to seal, but with the OEM seal an air gap would open up very easily between the axle shaft and the lips of the seals. I'm also wondering how much worn spindle bushings add to the leakage problem from the axle shafts wobbling?? I replaced my bushings with the new bushing/bearing combo from CDan so maybe that will help?
Guess time will tell after we get more miles on the the Marlin seals, only 4000 miles so far on mine.
Thanks for the info.
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I honestly don't think there has been enough data to support that there is an issue with Marlin seals. 100's of oe seals fail as well over time. We have used them in certain cases if the axles are really grooved and have not had comebacks. I have read the other thread and there are some valid points and observations, but without ruling out installer error or people that trash seals when installing axles, I would still give Marlin the benefit of the doubt.
As for the OP, I think you are just paranoid. Even thought that grease looks a little runny, it is still fine. Some greases weep out more oil than others. We have seen this with some Amsoil moly greases that when left looses a lot of oil (for the lack of a more technical term).
Also, be realistic, what are you protecting? If these were brand new OE birfields, I would say yes, you want to make sure that it is 100%, but if they are 120k mile ones, that stuff will do a fine job.
There are 80's running around with axles in much worse shape and they are still going strong.
As for the OP, I think you are just paranoid. Even thought that grease looks a little runny, it is still fine. Some greases weep out more oil than others. We have seen this with some Amsoil moly greases that when left looses a lot of oil (for the lack of a more technical term).
Also, be realistic, what are you protecting? If these were brand new OE birfields, I would say yes, you want to make sure that it is 100%, but if they are 120k mile ones, that stuff will do a fine job.
There are 80's running around with axles in much worse shape and they are still going strong.
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Over the years I have seen different grease do different things like Slee mentioned.
Some grease will weep more oil than others over time thus giving you more of a wet look.
My birf grease does not look much different than yours.
I also get some moly in the diff.
I just change out the diff fluid more often and make sure that the birfs have enough grease.
Just run the thing and keep an eye on it is all you need to do it could look like that for a long time with no issues as Slee mentioned above.
Run the thing.
Some grease will weep more oil than others over time thus giving you more of a wet look.
My birf grease does not look much different than yours.
I also get some moly in the diff.
I just change out the diff fluid more often and make sure that the birfs have enough grease.
Just run the thing and keep an eye on it is all you need to do it could look like that for a long time with no issues as Slee mentioned above.
Run the thing.
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- #29
I hear you guys, maybe I went in too soon. Newbie paranoia, but I would rather err on the side of caution. This LC is my first, though I'm not new to the 
. The right side was wetter/more runny than the left so there was some seal leaking, not just separation, though I'm sure that was some of it. I appreciate all the feedback.
As far as the Marlins, by the time I have to do this again maybe there will be more information or a new design, if needed.
I'm not going to put the inner seal in quite as far, about 1/16" less so it is more or less flush with the outside of the axle housing rather than the inside flush with that axle housing ring. If there is a slight axle wear issue, hopefully this will help.
. The right side was wetter/more runny than the left so there was some seal leaking, not just separation, though I'm sure that was some of it. I appreciate all the feedback.As far as the Marlins, by the time I have to do this again maybe there will be more information or a new design, if needed.
I'm not going to put the inner seal in quite as far, about 1/16" less so it is more or less flush with the outside of the axle housing rather than the inside flush with that axle housing ring. If there is a slight axle wear issue, hopefully this will help.
I do think the FSM says 2/3rds full. If you repack the birf that is about half a tube, then fill the cavity and make sure you get in way behind the birf, cut the tube open and dig in with your gloved hand and fill the rest to the 2/3rd level and seal it up. Thats the way I do it, any how.