Exactly. No results. Did I miss something?
Does my block's firing ring look trashed? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter ariff
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Exactly. No results. Did I miss something?
- Thread starter
- #22
OK so I already have the toyota HG came in my valve grind kit how are these different? And I have a 93 the specific application on cometic are for 95-98.
Well, the Cometic gaskets can come in varying thicknesses in order to offset the effect of decking the block and milling the head. This way, it will not affect the cam timing or the compression ratio.
But again, unless I have some blocker here at work that's causing this, I don't see anything for the 1FZ-FE engine on the Cometic site.
But again, unless I have some blocker here at work that's causing this, I don't see anything for the 1FZ-FE engine on the Cometic site.
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
They have them.
And to whoever mentioned filling the pitting with something like bondo.... I'm pretty sure I remember someone on this board doing so with JB Weld. Maybe do a search.
And to whoever mentioned filling the pitting with something like bondo.... I'm pretty sure I remember someone on this board doing so with JB Weld. Maybe do a search.
- Thread starter
- #26
Do you use the Hylomar Blue spray and just spray just both sides of the gasket or the block gasket and head? It appears like the Holymar likes to stick to itself to create a seal..
As I mentioned to @ariff yesterday in a PM, the problem here is that the pitting is directly under the fire ring of the HG. When I did my HG a few years ago it had a sticky greyish coating that I'm sure was to fill in minor surface imperfections, I do not remember it being on the ring though. I have a spare at home I could look at tomorrow. The problem is the ring area is now compromised by that pitting in the 1 o'clock position of those first two pictures. So yes, maybe the ring will crush down in there and conform, or maybe it won't. The clue here is that this is not the first time the head has been off the vehicle. My suggestion was do it right this time and be done with it for good.
As for the cost of pulling the motor out and doing it the right way, it's not that much more if you don't want to go crazy with it, and especially on a low budget project. I just went back and looked through my thread My Head gasket , engine rebuild , cost breakdown . This is 3 years ago prices but essentially $250 to have the block decked and honed. Another $130 for new rings and your set. You do not have to do bearings, just give your cylinder walls a good look, and look at the bearing surfaces for scratches.
Shaving the deck down to take out those gouges is not going to cause any issues with timing or compression or anything you need to worry about. I sweated this same thing and searched all over the forum for an answer. I found one guy who said it didn't matter and had run his like that for years. Mine has 30-40k miles on the rebuild, shaved deck and head, it runs fantastic.
As for the cost of pulling the motor out and doing it the right way, it's not that much more if you don't want to go crazy with it, and especially on a low budget project. I just went back and looked through my thread My Head gasket , engine rebuild , cost breakdown . This is 3 years ago prices but essentially $250 to have the block decked and honed. Another $130 for new rings and your set. You do not have to do bearings, just give your cylinder walls a good look, and look at the bearing surfaces for scratches.
Shaving the deck down to take out those gouges is not going to cause any issues with timing or compression or anything you need to worry about. I sweated this same thing and searched all over the forum for an answer. I found one guy who said it didn't matter and had run his like that for years. Mine has 30-40k miles on the rebuild, shaved deck and head, it runs fantastic.
- Thread starter
- #28
Thanks for the info Malcomb.. I plan on taking the head into the shop on Thursday I'll know more then on what the machinist recommends.. Been awhile since I pulled an engine ;>) The bell housing bolts look like a pain in the butt to remove.. If it will only cost maybe another 400 or so I can do it.. But someone was mentioning thousands of dollars to fix and this I could not and would not do. At that point I would be upside down in this project and that is something I told myself I would not do.
It's going to be hard for you to be upside down in your project.
I saw one this weekend that was not spectacular other than a lift, near-new 35's, and an ARB on the front asking $16K. It supposedly had a "freshly rebuilt engine" that was leaking oil from the valve cover............ I know values have been going up, but that's a bit steep. He'll find a young kid that doesn't know any better.
It is a tube you squeeze out not spray, put it on the block side all over where the gasket will sit keep it off the Pistons and oil passages, then place gasket, then clean dry head
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Yeah I don't know that is strange. When I click on that link at home and at the hospital, I get 5 results for 1FZ-FE headgaskets at Cometic's site.
It would cost you thousands of dollars to have a machinist disassemble, mic, and rebuild that entire motor the 100% correct way. If its like most of the 1FZ lower ends it will show very little wear on the lower rotating assembly. Which is why I say, for a budget project, just inspect everything and if it looks kosher move on. I have just under $2000 in my rebuild if I don't include the tools that I didn't have before. My motor was entirely resealed along with PS system and a ton of other while your in there's stuff. It still runs like a top, doesn't leak or burn any oil.
For the HG, if you decide you want to give it a shot and leave the pitting in the deck, then there have been a couple of good recommendations by others on here as to what you can do. You might get another 100k miles out of it and sell it off some day, who knows ?
The top two bell housing bolts can be difficult but they are much easier with the head off. You will actually have access from above by the firewall. Or come at them from behind the transmission with extensions while somebody watches and guides you onto them. I did a combination, breaking them loose with a wrench from above, then extracting them with a socket.
Pulling the block without the head is only slightly more difficult then pulling it with. I have some plates laying around here that I used. The OEM head bolts go through the plates and allow you to lift the block without stressing anything.
- Thread starter
- #33
Here is the latest.. After having my close friend who is a fleet mechanic come check out the block surface he was in agreement that if it were his truck he'd put some sealer on it and install the head. We did check for flatness on the block with his precision straight edge and it was pretty much perfectly straight. Even on the suspect area. I dropped the head off today to have the machinist go through it today and I should have it back next week. So at this point I think I am going to try just replacing the gasket and sealing it with hylomar. It is just not in the budget right now to do everything on the block.. Plus now that I know how to get the head off if I needed to do it again in the future it would not take me long at all. So I'll roll the dice this time and see how it goes.. Keep your fingers crossed for me ;>) I will post back what the results are when I am done.
- Thread starter
- #35
Lol yeah same here..
