Does and donts of replacing windshields
- Thread starter rc51kid
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I have nothing to contribute but I need to do my windshield and the gasket very soon, so I'll be interested to hear what folks have to say.
First suggestion, buy a factory Toyota windshield gasket, and when you find a company to do your install, insist that they use your factory gasket! The factory gasket just work's way better then the aftermarket gasket that glass company's install in our trucks,
Factory Gasket + Print the FSM section and insist they follow it. Sealant is necessary to avoid leaks.
This. Had mine done as part of a glass out repaint and was a nuisance to the shop making sure they knew how I wanted it done. So far so good.
You could call (or better go into) your local Toyota dealer (Service dept should know) and ask them who they use for say a new vehicle on the lot that needs a windshield replaced. Do the same if you have a Lexus dealer nearby.
And once you get the name of a Glass shop the dealer uses ask the shop if they've ever (successfully) installed a 80 Series Land Cruiser windshield. Don't accept an answer like "all windshields are installed the same way".
The biggest mistake IME is that too many installers don't apply the ADHESIVE-SEALANT in the correct locations (glass to gasket, gasket to body)
Second mistake IME is that they put deep cuts into the paint down to bare metal with a utility knife as they cut the old gasket and sealant away. This is a set up for rust down the road. Very important for them to take care of that before they install the windshield.
Already mentioned, print out the installation instructions from the FSM and bring them with you. Don't be afraid of asking them questions and discussing
the correct method, if they don't like that find another shop.
And once you get the name of a Glass shop the dealer uses ask the shop if they've ever (successfully) installed a 80 Series Land Cruiser windshield. Don't accept an answer like "all windshields are installed the same way".
The biggest mistake IME is that too many installers don't apply the ADHESIVE-SEALANT in the correct locations (glass to gasket, gasket to body)
Second mistake IME is that they put deep cuts into the paint down to bare metal with a utility knife as they cut the old gasket and sealant away. This is a set up for rust down the road. Very important for them to take care of that before they install the windshield.
Already mentioned, print out the installation instructions from the FSM and bring them with you. Don't be afraid of asking them questions and discussing
the correct method, if they don't like that find another shop.
This....
I'm getting ready to do just this. I interviewed the shop tech that will be performing the job. Told them I will provide the gasket and FSM procedure to replace, and want it followed to the letter. After reviewing, he said it can be done. I then checked with the shop manager and told them the story of why the FSM procedure must be followed. Also told them I am willing to pay a bit extra to make sure it is done correctly and doesn't leak.
We'll see how it goes...
I've been a party to many of these threads over the years, as I used to work with the windshield contractors at a Class 8 fleet garage where I was previously employed. Bottom line is as stated above repeatedly. Use an OEM gasket, provide the FSM instructions in printed form, and insist that it be followed to the letter. If you don't have it done like this, you'll end up with leaks and rust.
Most shops tend to follow the quickie procedures that generally work OK with other vehicles. The 80 series is old school and must be done that way. Otherwise the install done wrong will damage the value of an increasingly collectible vehicle. If it needs to cost a little more to do it right, that's acceptable.
Also note that when the old is removed, you may find hidden rust. The time to deal with this is now, so that should also be part of the discussion if your 80 is a keeper - and most are.
Most shops tend to follow the quickie procedures that generally work OK with other vehicles. The 80 series is old school and must be done that way. Otherwise the install done wrong will damage the value of an increasingly collectible vehicle. If it needs to cost a little more to do it right, that's acceptable.
Also note that when the old is removed, you may find hidden rust. The time to deal with this is now, so that should also be part of the discussion if your 80 is a keeper - and most are.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
I think providing the FSM procedure is only part of the battle.
Howthey respond to and accept your request for this is key too.
Lots of tradies or technicians won't be told how to do their job. They are the experts. You can't teach an expert that doesn't want to learn.
Howthey respond to and accept your request for this is key too.
Lots of tradies or technicians won't be told how to do their job. They are the experts. You can't teach an expert that doesn't want to learn.
"when the old is removed, you may find hidden rust"
FWIW this is what I did as I knew there was some rust starting under the gasket in my 96 model due to a previously botched installation, so planned ahead and got an appointment with a small body shop to fix that. First had the windshield pulled at the independent glass shop with a good reputation then drove the vehicle a mile to the body shop sans windshield. Body shop fixed the rust and repainted around the body opening then a couple of days later drove the vehicle back to the glass shop to have the windshield installed correctly.
Trivia: reason it took a few days is because the body shop used the wrong color of white on their first attempt. The white for 80 Series is Toyota 045 which was written on the slip but the painter just assumed that the color was Super White, nope. At first they tried to say the original paint had faded as the reason the paint didn't match but I convinced them to repaint with 045, perfect match.
FWIW
FWIW this is what I did as I knew there was some rust starting under the gasket in my 96 model due to a previously botched installation, so planned ahead and got an appointment with a small body shop to fix that. First had the windshield pulled at the independent glass shop with a good reputation then drove the vehicle a mile to the body shop sans windshield. Body shop fixed the rust and repainted around the body opening then a couple of days later drove the vehicle back to the glass shop to have the windshield installed correctly.
Trivia: reason it took a few days is because the body shop used the wrong color of white on their first attempt. The white for 80 Series is Toyota 045 which was written on the slip but the painter just assumed that the color was Super White, nope. At first they tried to say the original paint had faded as the reason the paint didn't match but I convinced them to repaint with 045, perfect match.
FWIW
Where did they stop on the paint touch up?
I have to do mine and I know it has rust, so trying to plan out the process without repainting the entire truck.
The A-pillar will need repainted and about 2" up on the roof due to visible rust. Yes, because someone botched a previous windshield replacement with a box knife cutting through the paint.
Going to go slightly against the grain here....
Also kinda long winded...
You're best to remove the old one yourself, undried rattle can rust fixes, done at time of install, will come back to bite.
Order a genuine seal/gasket, I prefer the non chrome seal as it's one less place for dirt/crud to build up.
Then slice your current seal about 1/4 deep, right in the middle of where the chrome strip would have been, all the way around, making a loose ring of rubber. Look at the new seal and you'll see how to remove the outer part holding the glass, cutting this way stops you damaging the paintwork. Then push the windscreen out with your feet starting at a top corner, safely squints and possibly vacuum required. Then peal out remaining portion of seal, careful along the top as the sealant may have glued itself to the roof liner.
Clean everything and appropriately repair damaged paint and rust, give new paint adequate drying time, I use 2K primer and top coat and leave it to cure for a week. Also do not use the corner as the paint edge, go to half the seal overlap, to avoid chipping paint on install.
Then get your chosen windscreen place to install the new screen...
Or, this will contentious, install it yourself, rope in seals are easy with a helper, using only soapy water to let the seal settle properly.
I've replaced at least a dozen 80 screens and as many 60 ones, never used sealant, none have leaked, even on two Raptor painted 80's. The reason I've done so many is they come in needing rust repair or rust is found during stripping for repainting. The majority causes are crap sealant jobs that allowed water in and trap it or acid cure sealants that reacted with damaged factory paint or rattle can fast repairs.
Why no sealant..
My Landcruiser parts man and myself agree, that barn door/poverty pack models never came with sealant from the factory, just non chrome rope in seals, theory being fast, cheap and clean change over for government, mines and military use.
Also kinda long winded...
You're best to remove the old one yourself, undried rattle can rust fixes, done at time of install, will come back to bite.
Order a genuine seal/gasket, I prefer the non chrome seal as it's one less place for dirt/crud to build up.
Then slice your current seal about 1/4 deep, right in the middle of where the chrome strip would have been, all the way around, making a loose ring of rubber. Look at the new seal and you'll see how to remove the outer part holding the glass, cutting this way stops you damaging the paintwork. Then push the windscreen out with your feet starting at a top corner, safely squints and possibly vacuum required. Then peal out remaining portion of seal, careful along the top as the sealant may have glued itself to the roof liner.
Clean everything and appropriately repair damaged paint and rust, give new paint adequate drying time, I use 2K primer and top coat and leave it to cure for a week. Also do not use the corner as the paint edge, go to half the seal overlap, to avoid chipping paint on install.
Then get your chosen windscreen place to install the new screen...
Or, this will contentious, install it yourself, rope in seals are easy with a helper, using only soapy water to let the seal settle properly.
I've replaced at least a dozen 80 screens and as many 60 ones, never used sealant, none have leaked, even on two Raptor painted 80's. The reason I've done so many is they come in needing rust repair or rust is found during stripping for repainting. The majority causes are crap sealant jobs that allowed water in and trap it or acid cure sealants that reacted with damaged factory paint or rattle can fast repairs.
Why no sealant..
My Landcruiser parts man and myself agree, that barn door/poverty pack models never came with sealant from the factory, just non chrome rope in seals, theory being fast, cheap and clean change over for government, mines and military use.
mehbohdi
SILVER Star
Apparently you do not own a 80......
Thank you!
I agree with the removal of the glass, then touch up on the rust and paint. How far back should I go on paint touch up when I have rust bubbles 1-1/2" outside the seal on the leading edge of the roof?
Can I use rattle can primer with actual auto paint on top of it?
However, on reassembly, I will absolutely have them use sealant on both the glass side and frame side, as the previous installer did what you described and it has leaked inside on the floor and now I have a rusty floor inside.
They also used a knife and cut the paint, causing what you described.
That's the problem right there.
I've talked to three different windshield techs and whenever I get into how I want it done they interrupt me and go into the "I've been doing this for 20 years" BS.
I'm about ready to buy some harbor freight suction cups and go at it myself.
"Where did they stop on the paint touch up?"
When I had the body shop paint around the windshield opening they painted the A pillars completely then blended the paint on the roof
to a bit past the front of the sunroof opening. When the vehicle was cleaned and polished it was difficult to see where the old
and new paint meet, but if I don't wash or wax the vehicle very often and if you look closely you might notice a difference in the surface sheen between the original paint and the repair, but the color is a match.
Now for the bad news, it's been over 10 years and the rust is coming back, noticed recently that there's a bubble or two starting half under the gasket on the roof so at some point I'll have to get it redone, bummer because it doesn't leak and it's OEM glass. So the paint shop didn't do a perfect job in removing/killing the rust. Oh well.
When I had the body shop paint around the windshield opening they painted the A pillars completely then blended the paint on the roof
to a bit past the front of the sunroof opening. When the vehicle was cleaned and polished it was difficult to see where the old
and new paint meet, but if I don't wash or wax the vehicle very often and if you look closely you might notice a difference in the surface sheen between the original paint and the repair, but the color is a match.
Now for the bad news, it's been over 10 years and the rust is coming back, noticed recently that there's a bubble or two starting half under the gasket on the roof so at some point I'll have to get it redone, bummer because it doesn't leak and it's OEM glass. So the paint shop didn't do a perfect job in removing/killing the rust. Oh well.
How far back depends on where the rust actually finishes, which is normally past where you can see it through paint. It'll show up while sanding as the paint won't be attached anymore. If welding is required to fill holes, you'll have to go past the heat affected paint.
Yes you can use rattle can primer, but if you're going to get a shop to blend the paint you're best to ask them which primer as some won't warranty work over certain primers.
Also, prior to sanding it's a good idea to wipe the area down thoroughly with prepsol or thinners to stop any remaining polish or waxes getting mixed into your blend line, cause adhesion issues with the new primer.
I don't think I mentioned it in the other post, the no sealant option(my personal choice, but to each his own) requires 100% removal of the old sealant and the paint to be in tip top shape. Generally when I'm doing them, it's all fresh paint, post welding or complete resprays.
No one in my town (spoke with 9 shops) will follow the FSM. I haven't replaced my windshield in a year. No one is willing to glue them in.
FWIW, 5 years ago Safelite did ours, did not realize how wrong the job was at the time. Finding someone willing to take the time to do it right was not easy for me. Rather than re-paint the A pillars and roof, they put a black band around the frame that stands out about 1/4" from the molding. Looks fine, took a week.
