Is there a difference in quality between the 2? I know the price difference is HUGE. I think it's time b/c i see some grease splatter. Thanks for all your help in advance. Also how much should this job cost around with Labor? Does someone need to be a pro to do this job or any mechanic should know? Thanks again
Do you guys recommend The stock C-V joints/shafts or aftermarket? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 01LXNY
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Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Why not just reboot them?
OEM if you're gonna replace.
OEM as replacements right now. RCV's are supposedly getting close to being to market with their super heavy duty CV shaft assemblies (they're not going to be inexpensive though).
So depending on several factors such as how many miles on your rig, how bad and how long the boots have been leaking you can also consider, as TM mentioned above, just rebuilding the boot portion. I think OEM boot kits are around $40 give or take per side.
So depending on several factors such as how many miles on your rig, how bad and how long the boots have been leaking you can also consider, as TM mentioned above, just rebuilding the boot portion. I think OEM boot kits are around $40 give or take per side.
- Thread starter
- #5
Hey thanks 4 the advice
What company is RCV? i'm not familiar with them. Could you post a link to them, thanks. Yea i'm goona try to just replace the boots. Hopefully that should go smoothly, but in my life nothing ever goes smooth. How many hours is fair for this type of job? Thanks
What company is RCV? i'm not familiar with them. Could you post a link to them, thanks. Yea i'm goona try to just replace the boots. Hopefully that should go smoothly, but in my life nothing ever goes smooth. How many hours is fair for this type of job? Thanks
RCV Performance: RCV PERFORMANCE ONLINE STORE - CV JOINTS - AXLE KITS - TOOLS
Assuming you are a competent DIY'r on automotive things I'd say about 3-3.5 hours per side for the first time around this block
: 1 to 1.5 hours to remove the CV shaft and about 1.5-2 hours to do the boot rebuild.
Plenty of articles on this board about CV shaft removal but you don't need to undo the hub and bearings: You'll pull the upper steering shaft knuckle apart and some can wiggle the shaft out without disconnecting the lower ball joint/steering knuckle coupling (both have tapered joints) but I prefer, since it only takes me 5-minutes, to go ahead and separate the bottom joint too. Rest the knuckle/hub assembly on a milk crate while you pull the CV shaft assembly.
If you are going to drain and refill the front diff then you don't need to address the diff lube. Otherwise jack the side you are working on up higher so that the diff lube won't run out after you pull the CV.
And RustyTLC showed me this trick for overhauling birfs and CV joints: Toilet paper makes a perfect and cheap absorber...you'll have a mess on your hands but the TP soaks it up pretty well.
That's just 'the high notes'...good luck.
Assuming you are a competent DIY'r on automotive things I'd say about 3-3.5 hours per side for the first time around this block
: 1 to 1.5 hours to remove the CV shaft and about 1.5-2 hours to do the boot rebuild.Plenty of articles on this board about CV shaft removal but you don't need to undo the hub and bearings: You'll pull the upper steering shaft knuckle apart and some can wiggle the shaft out without disconnecting the lower ball joint/steering knuckle coupling (both have tapered joints) but I prefer, since it only takes me 5-minutes, to go ahead and separate the bottom joint too. Rest the knuckle/hub assembly on a milk crate while you pull the CV shaft assembly.
If you are going to drain and refill the front diff then you don't need to address the diff lube. Otherwise jack the side you are working on up higher so that the diff lube won't run out after you pull the CV.
And RustyTLC showed me this trick for overhauling birfs and CV joints: Toilet paper makes a perfect and cheap absorber...you'll have a mess on your hands but the TP soaks it up pretty well.
That's just 'the high notes'...good luck.
Directions from Summit Cruiser here:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/388534-cv-boots-replaced-directions.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/388534-cv-boots-replaced-directions.html
- Thread starter
- #8
Thanks for all your help much appreciated!
Why do the boots go bad though? My 80's didn't have boots I guess b/c they had a solid axle design. Why do they use rubber Boots? Why can't they come up with a better idea that doesn't break and leak i'm sure there are solutions so water and junk can't get in there etc. I don't know just venting. I kinda miss my 80 now. This boot design is stupid in my opinion.
Why do the boots go bad though? My 80's didn't have boots I guess b/c they had a solid axle design. Why do they use rubber Boots? Why can't they come up with a better idea that doesn't break and leak i'm sure there are solutions so water and junk can't get in there etc. I don't know just venting. I kinda miss my 80 now. This boot design is stupid in my opinion.
I checked out their website - you're right they're not cheap but cannot beat that warranty. I wonder if they still have leaking issues.
Wow - those are expensive axles at RCV. Can anyone speak to whether they're worth it and why? OEM are only 375/side and raxles.com are 300/side. From everything I've seen, the stock axles are high quality - the problem is with the boot clamps. Just use aftermarket clamps that can be tightened better and no more leaking. Even the cheap ones from advanceauto, autozone and napa parts come with limited lifetime warranties.
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Supposedly they offer a wider angle range of articulation at the inner joint; boots are better; strength is superior to the degree they say they can take full engine power/torque at full steering/wheel crank and any position of the CV...
FWIW: The NAPA units are total crap. Yeah they offer a limited lifetime warranty but what good does that do when you're out in the middle of BFN and break one of their CVs? Yes I broke one.
As for the Toyota OEM I think the list on those is about $700. So in the grand scheme of things the RCV, assuming they are what they say they are, units are appropriately priced (assuming the pricing on the 100-Series shafts is the same/similar to FJ, 4R, etc.). Keep in mind Toyota makes tens of thousands of these shaft assemblies every year whereas RCV maybe 100 or less.
Its good to have choices folks!
FWIW: The NAPA units are total crap. Yeah they offer a limited lifetime warranty but what good does that do when you're out in the middle of BFN and break one of their CVs? Yes I broke one.
As for the Toyota OEM I think the list on those is about $700. So in the grand scheme of things the RCV, assuming they are what they say they are, units are appropriately priced (assuming the pricing on the 100-Series shafts is the same/similar to FJ, 4R, etc.). Keep in mind Toyota makes tens of thousands of these shaft assemblies every year whereas RCV maybe 100 or less.
Its good to have choices folks!
uHu
Bridgeburner
RCV PERFORMANCE
The Last Axle You'll Ever Need
Leak? They don't leak! We will have them up on our site by the end of the night! They will be $985.00 per side. Contact Richard King at Bear Trax 4x4 Outfitters for 1st hand experience!
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FullyLitLED
Supporting Vendor
those look awesome
until the wallet is nicer to me, I think I'll have to stick to hose clamps on top of the cv straps for now
Supposedly a set will be on its way to me within the next couple days. As soon as I receive them they'll get slapped on with an initial post about the install process (I would fully expect install to be the same as OEM...but we'll see how that goes). And then more info as the miles accumulate.
Nice Dan...can't wait to see these bad boys on your rig and getting tested....
-o-
-o-
The RCV's were shipped today. Sam (SAMCO) thought I might be better off with their black boot instead of the orange boot as the black is a little softer durometer. Shawn, at RCV Performance) and I talked about this and he agreed the black was probably better suited for what I do.
Install update and report to follow...
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
So what is the wear going to be on these? I understand them in rock crawling, etc etc applications, but not in a vehicle driven high mileage, unless I am wrong on the wear. Are they they same issue as 80 series chromoly that is softer to withstand shock loads, but wear faster? So if these are unbreakable, what is next, the famous 100 diff?
Don't know Christo. I'm just tired of puking cv boots; I haven't had an issue, yet, with the strength of the CV joint and CV axles on my 100. Its all a grand experiment
As Wildsmith suggested on our Euro forum, perhaps with RCV tooling up for 100 series how about with 11.5" wide tires, longer drive shafts, upper and lower arms we could finally make long travel front end kits for the 100 series
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